Valdivia to Yarumal
23/5/2012
D38, T4.30, Av8.35, Total10146
Cool, early morning rain
700m climb
Arising early and heading to the same restaurant, a great breakfast was enjoyed, eating at this time of day is not the norm, however knowing today was going to be hard work energy was required.
The meal was huevos revueltos con salchicha arrz, y arepa con queso, to be precise and tasty too.
It was enjoyed over a chat with John and Julio, two guys from the Transito y Transporte Policia. They filled me in on the road and other matters and asked heaps of questions about Australia. They may have been a little wiser after my response to these questions.
The moment on leaving the town centre, the work began. Not feeling fully charged after yesterdays effort an interesting day was ahead.
The road was wet with a light drizzle falling and an ideal temperature of about 23 degrees.
The scenery was presented on a grand scale with water falls seen cascading on far away steep slopes.
The traffic on the road was mainly commercial, this kind of road required good brakes and consequently most semis using it were very late model units.
One guy motioned me to hang onto the back of the truck which for the life of me I did but couldn’t get a decent grip. Further up a guy on a motorbike stopped and we tried to put the bike on a trailer he had, it was never going to work.
As the morning wore on the climbing never stopped. My knees and legs just didn’t have the drive.
By now walking the bike was just about as efficient, at least not having to get off every time a rest was needed.
It was very difficult to come round a bend and see trucks miles ahead still climbing. Having driven on a few hill roads, a road like this has never been seen before 38k of climbing and at points switch backs were required as the terrain was so steep.
At places where the road was rough people were patching it with dirt using shovels, at one such spot a young boy was doing this.
He told me the truck drivers sometimes give them money. He was a good kid, at least he had the motivation to be out here. Thinking about this and his life I gave him a reasonable amount of money for his “ get off your bum attitude”. He was wrapped, most importantly he did not expect money from me, nor did he motion for such.
There were houses tucked into the cuttings all the way up, many were fashioned just from plastic and clay, the availabity of water kept them here.
The army were posted at inervals on the road, getting water off some guys, they told me they were in the dwelling for a month stint, checking trucks they suspected were moving coca leaves about.
I am not filtering water today, hopefully giardia is not present here. The water is crystal clear and oh so cool.
As the temperature has been dropping reminders of home keep appearing, those being Fresian cows, Eucalyptus, Norfolk Island Pine and Cypruss trees.
Stopping at a roadside orange juice stall, fresh squeezed, divine one might add. The lady about 70 in the shade was also selling movies. I have never seen such a collection of porn movies for sale, obviously camioneros provide some custom.
Me, I had the extra weight to consider, I passed on that one.
Lunch was enjoyed behind a derelict building with just the best views, again dehy food was used. This NZ High Country brand is superb.
By 1400 walking the bike was about all I could do, this road just wanted to reach the sky. Only the slightest inclines saw me take to the saddle.
Most importantly time was on my side with 10 k to go at 1400. Yarumal would be reached before dark even if 5k/hr was maintained. However it was the rests in between that would determine my arrival.
During the ride through the states I had accumulated a lot of special music on my ipod, this had been placed in playlists. Playlists that had significance, playlists that bought back memories of other days with trying conditions. This music coupled with positive thoughts was again used to propel me to the top of this seemingly never ending ascent.
All the while the vistas from this road, those when you couldn’t see trucks miles away above you, were so beautiful. Just range after range of lush geen hills as far as you could see.
Small shacks were scattered throughout the vistas, as was ever present water under the influence of gravity.
Finally reaching the top, just letting that gravity load its magic upon me, the 3 kilometres to Yarumal came so easy.
Unlike in the states you could not rely on an even surface and gather speed, caution was applied, with an eye always scanning the road ahead for potholes and undulations.
Reaching Yarumal made all the effort worth it, this town with its central park is breath taking, it is on the side of a steep hill. Its central point is the catholic church.
A great motel the Amajari was found with no stairs right on the park. A rest day is to be spent in this high Clombian settlement.
The room has no AC or fan and theres hot water!!, it is very cool here, about 18 degrees in the evening, it is great, a sweater was even worn.
Remarkably, I felt very good after the day. Realising my strategy of walking with some riding coupled with stopping to talk where possible had been sensible. My physical limits had been reached, it was important these had not been breached..
The added psychological knowledge that I had plenty of time was also a huge help.
Again Colombia had stirred my emotions with its beauty and the friendliness of its people.
23/5/2012
D38, T4.30, Av8.35, Total10146
Cool, early morning rain
700m climb
Arising early and heading to the same restaurant, a great breakfast was enjoyed, eating at this time of day is not the norm, however knowing today was going to be hard work energy was required.
The meal was huevos revueltos con salchicha arrz, y arepa con queso, to be precise and tasty too.
It was enjoyed over a chat with John and Julio, two guys from the Transito y Transporte Policia. They filled me in on the road and other matters and asked heaps of questions about Australia. They may have been a little wiser after my response to these questions.
The moment on leaving the town centre, the work began. Not feeling fully charged after yesterdays effort an interesting day was ahead.
The road was wet with a light drizzle falling and an ideal temperature of about 23 degrees.
The scenery was presented on a grand scale with water falls seen cascading on far away steep slopes.
The traffic on the road was mainly commercial, this kind of road required good brakes and consequently most semis using it were very late model units.
One guy motioned me to hang onto the back of the truck which for the life of me I did but couldn’t get a decent grip. Further up a guy on a motorbike stopped and we tried to put the bike on a trailer he had, it was never going to work.
As the morning wore on the climbing never stopped. My knees and legs just didn’t have the drive.
By now walking the bike was just about as efficient, at least not having to get off every time a rest was needed.
It was very difficult to come round a bend and see trucks miles ahead still climbing. Having driven on a few hill roads, a road like this has never been seen before 38k of climbing and at points switch backs were required as the terrain was so steep.
At places where the road was rough people were patching it with dirt using shovels, at one such spot a young boy was doing this.
He told me the truck drivers sometimes give them money. He was a good kid, at least he had the motivation to be out here. Thinking about this and his life I gave him a reasonable amount of money for his “ get off your bum attitude”. He was wrapped, most importantly he did not expect money from me, nor did he motion for such.
There were houses tucked into the cuttings all the way up, many were fashioned just from plastic and clay, the availabity of water kept them here.
The army were posted at inervals on the road, getting water off some guys, they told me they were in the dwelling for a month stint, checking trucks they suspected were moving coca leaves about.
I am not filtering water today, hopefully giardia is not present here. The water is crystal clear and oh so cool.
As the temperature has been dropping reminders of home keep appearing, those being Fresian cows, Eucalyptus, Norfolk Island Pine and Cypruss trees.
Stopping at a roadside orange juice stall, fresh squeezed, divine one might add. The lady about 70 in the shade was also selling movies. I have never seen such a collection of porn movies for sale, obviously camioneros provide some custom.
Me, I had the extra weight to consider, I passed on that one.
Lunch was enjoyed behind a derelict building with just the best views, again dehy food was used. This NZ High Country brand is superb.
By 1400 walking the bike was about all I could do, this road just wanted to reach the sky. Only the slightest inclines saw me take to the saddle.
Most importantly time was on my side with 10 k to go at 1400. Yarumal would be reached before dark even if 5k/hr was maintained. However it was the rests in between that would determine my arrival.
During the ride through the states I had accumulated a lot of special music on my ipod, this had been placed in playlists. Playlists that had significance, playlists that bought back memories of other days with trying conditions. This music coupled with positive thoughts was again used to propel me to the top of this seemingly never ending ascent.
All the while the vistas from this road, those when you couldn’t see trucks miles away above you, were so beautiful. Just range after range of lush geen hills as far as you could see.
Small shacks were scattered throughout the vistas, as was ever present water under the influence of gravity.
Finally reaching the top, just letting that gravity load its magic upon me, the 3 kilometres to Yarumal came so easy.
Unlike in the states you could not rely on an even surface and gather speed, caution was applied, with an eye always scanning the road ahead for potholes and undulations.
Reaching Yarumal made all the effort worth it, this town with its central park is breath taking, it is on the side of a steep hill. Its central point is the catholic church.
A great motel the Amajari was found with no stairs right on the park. A rest day is to be spent in this high Clombian settlement.
The room has no AC or fan and theres hot water!!, it is very cool here, about 18 degrees in the evening, it is great, a sweater was even worn.
Remarkably, I felt very good after the day. Realising my strategy of walking with some riding coupled with stopping to talk where possible had been sensible. My physical limits had been reached, it was important these had not been breached..
The added psychological knowledge that I had plenty of time was also a huge help.
Again Colombia had stirred my emotions with its beauty and the friendliness of its people.
Valdivia 4 hours later, still so close.
One way of cooling down an over hot radiator
A great kid! He may have departed the scene with his booty when I left, good on him.
High country Colombia looking north
This town with its central park is like a tapestry layed down the slope, a tapestry of tiny shops steep roads and friendly people.
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We tried to get the bike on here, it was never going to happen. Ascending unassisted felt good anyway.
The guys gave me water and an insight into their job.
One particularly steep section near the top
Yarumal, it was all worth it.
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