Namibia: open spaces, great roads, few, but ever so friendly and hospitable people!!
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We camped just outside Otavi
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it was great to have Phil along therough the Twyfelfontein area.
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20-30/10/2015 Swakopmund, at Willie and Ritas house
We had booked into the Desert Sky Backpackers hostel. On Willie and Ritas return, they would have no part in us going to stay there. So we spent the last week with them.
They treated us like family. Importantly we all got on really well.
With both Australia and NZ in the final, we were happy anyway. We enjoyed nine holes at the Swakopmund desert golf club and a game of tennis with Rita who plays a great game. Rita and I beat the guys. We also went for a swim in the frigid waters at the Strand Hotel. The boys got their bike boxes from the local bike shop here.
A fantastic meal was enjoyed at the Tug restaurant where we all enjoyed seafood. The sole was especially nice.
Rita also cooked a traditional lamb dish from South Africa. We cooked up a peppered chicken dish on our last evening.
The weather here is very mild, normally a sea fog comes in over the land in the evening and is still around in the morning till about 1000 or 1100 then the sun burns it off. This leaves a lovely day.
The prevailing southeasterly wind is often very cool.
1/10/2015 Grootfontein gas station to Peace Garden camp
D17, T3, Av18.43 Max 46, 47,085, 11,186
We had slept below a wall on our airbeds and were awoken to water flowing all around and under us. Someone had tipped a bucket of water above us and it had drained down to us.
Luckily, only our airbeds got wet.
So, we were up very early. There were lots of other people sleeping around the modern gas station, no mzungus though .
We were ready to ride into town about 0900. Here we got MTC sim cards and had a salad lunch in a park.
Namibia is so different from other countries visited, it has a supermarket culture, with few markets on the streets.
Most people driving late model cars are mzungus. Many of them are landholders around the area.
Accommodation was too expensive so we headed out of town to the Peace Garden Resort. Here we got a campsite with all facilities for $US8.
2/10/2015 Peace Garden camp to camp outside of Otavi
D93, T5, Av17.84 Max 33, 47,178, 11,279
The roads here in Namibia are little used and in perfect condition with rest areas and modern signage. Every 10km was a distance sign.The road was dead flat and straight. It was cycle touring near its purest. Just us out in the middle of nowhere.
We got to the little village of Kombat, where the local people outside the only bottle shop said, welcome to Povertyville. There was once a copper mine here. It had recently flooded and was abandoned, leaving most of the village out of work.
Most people now work on the large farms in the area. Many grow maize and raise Brahman cattle.
Here we ate baked beans and this terrible processed meat. We joked that we might start barking after lunch, such was the meat roll we ate with the baked beans.
We got into Otavi quite late, but just in time to get some supplies at the Spar supermarket. From here we stocked up on water and camped just outside of town past the new subdivision on the back road to Outjo .
3/10/2015 Camp outside of Otavi to Marco and Deirdres farm
D82, T4.3, Av17.94 Max 42, 47,260, 11,361
I was up during the night with mild diarrhoea. It seemed to have improved by the morning. We rode the hundred metres back to the y junction to take the left hand fork.
The road was a creamy limestone surface and was hard packed. This made for an incredibly smooth ride on the dirt road. It was flat most of the way. There were properties along the way that had signposts up saying they were hunting areas. One was advertising it was a bow hunting area.
Not many houses were visible as the roads headed into the small treed scrub.
We stopped at one farmhouse that locals lived in and got water from an above ground storage area that was being fed by a windmill.
From here, we stopped at the only piece of shade we could find, a tree partly in leaf. We stopped here for a cuple of hours. Ben had a puncture to repair. Whilst stopped a four wheel drive and camper went past. Five minutes later, it was coming back our way. They pulled over and offered us three cold beers, can you believe it. Here we were in this dry hot environment sipping on deliciously cold beer. Andre and his family were on their way for a weekend camping trip from Windhoek.
They were great people and stopped for a chat. We said we would catch up with them in Windhoek when we arrived in a months time.
Once back on the road it had cooled down a bit. About 1730 we stopped at a farm house for the nights water.
The owner Marco asked us if we would like to camp there for the night.
We set up on lush green grass on the shady back lawn. This was such a treat. Deirdre, his wife cooked us a beautiful meal and we watched the Aussies beat England in the rugby world cup.
We all slept like logs feeling very safe in the back yard. Marco had shot an Oryx the day before and had the large hind and forequarters hanging in his walk in cool room.
Itosha NP was just over the hills to our north. He said he grew potatoes on irrigated land on his property. Namibia has good supplies of ground water some as close as 10m below the surface. He also said they only receive about 500mm of rain a year.
I left all my used maps with Marco and Deirdre, hopefully they will be of use to them.
4/10/2015 Marco and Deirdres farm to Outjo, Fifis house
D81, T4.3, Av18.74 Max 42, 47,341, 11,442
Overcast and comfortable 25°C
We had a late departure. I cleaned my MSR stove and had all sorts of problems trying to get the wire cable back in the fuel line all the way.
We said our goodbyes and headed off down the smooth road again.
Things were still just the same, a wide little used road and huge landscapes. We were blessed with a cool overcast day which even saw a few spots of rain fall. During the bus trip a couple of days ago, there was an electrical storm while we crossed the Caprivi Strip, there too was some rain.
It was easy riding till the underpass of the rail line. We then had head winds before reaching Outjo. As usual it was straight to the big supermarket. I have started drinking milk which is readily available here.
Coca cola is only sold in cans and is expensive. I think it is such an awful drink unless it comes very cold and from glass bottles.
Whilst at the supermarket, a character of a guy came and chatted to us. Fifi was about 70 and of German extraction. We got on well, he invited us to stay at his house .
We followed him there. He was a very intelligent man who had had an interesting life. His passion was firearms on which has written and is writing books. He also makes silencers for rifles in his well equipped workshop.
He also built a 60-foot steel schooner in his younger days.
We slept inside his house, which he made us feel so welcome in. The Namibian people have been some of the most hospitable,to date, it has been great.
I left my mosquito net with Fifi who said only a few days ago he was thinking of buying a new mosquito net. I was pleased it had been left with someone who needed it.
6/10/2015 Outjo to 50km from Khorixas
D85,T4, Av21, max52, 47426, 11,507
Fine and very hot, NE winds.
Leaving town we stopped at a cafe and the supermarket, at the cafe was another cyclist. Phillip was from Belguim and had come down from Cameroon through Angola. We spent about half an hour here talking with other people from Wales who had hired four wheel drives.
Phil decided to come with us. He had not seen another cyclist for 8 months so was very happy to have company.
The road was in very good condition with great signage,. The distance to Khorixas was marked every 10km.
It was great to have another rider with us. Ben and cal have been with me for four months now. There are times when we have the normal family heated discussions or arguments. Though, so far it has been a very special time together.
I heard a banging noise and sure enough a spoke had broken on the cassette side of the rear wheel.
This was repaired with Phil in company. Then some 10km up the road a loud noise was heard again. This time to had broken. My wheel had a huge buckle in it and could hardly be wheel along the road.
I am getting quite good at truing wheels now. This time some spokes were lossened as well as tightened.
I am finding some of them are just to tight. Once this was done, we caught up to Cal and Ben who had been waiting up ahead.
As the day wore on the colours of the setting sun really add drama to the sparsely treed landscape.
We needed water, and got to the entrance to Bamasti Lodge and phoned the owner. He kindly said he would bring water down to us. We also asked him to bring some Coke down. He was a great guy and arrived with 3 cold 5l containers of water and 6 cans of coke all cold .
We filled our bottles and had a chat for half an hour.
He had the generosity to give us the Coca Cola which was very kind, even though we insisted on paying.
Once loaded we rode 5km down the road and found some trees to camp behind on the road reserve.
We had a pasta and even got a few spots of rain from a very black cloud that passed overhead. It was not long before it was just another dark starry night .
7/10/2015 50km from Khorixas to Bella Vista bottle shop
D80,T3.4, Av21.63, max71, 47506, 11,587
Fine and very hot, NE winds.
Few vehicles passed all night and it remained dry. The air is incredibly dry and wet tea towels with dry overnight in the cool dry air.
Once up we had breakfast and were on the road by 0900.
Again it was easy fast riding.
The temperatures are great until about 1200, then it starts heating up rapidly, today was no different.
We still had great nor east tail winds. The scenery is now dominated by the whitish soils and rocks with sparse smallish deciduous trees.
At one point in the road we had an elevated view of the vast landscape west. Ben,cal and I stopped and decided to have a race down here. We got up to 74 km/hr on the smooth black surface.
My spokes were holding out so all was good.
A new noise had appeared from front racks. On inspection it was frund that the braze on where my pannier is connected to the forks had broken free.
It was still ok though but needed seeing to.
We stopped about 1300 and had lunch in a culvert under the road just to get out of the sun.
I stopped to replenish my water from a ramshackle far house. Here the woman topped up two bottles for me.
On the outskirts of Khorixas was a vehicle repair place. Here they were about to gas weld the fitting back on and ran out of gas.
They then bought out a stick welder which I stopped them from using. We decided to wire it back in place. This held it tight enough.
On reaching Khorixas we went straight to the supermarket and started drinking fluids for the next half hour. Yoghurt, milk and water were swallowed with hast.
The supermarket was areal focl point with people everywhere.
It was frightfully hot now. We rode around town looking for some good shade and found some alongside a building and stopped here for an hour or two and washed ourselves under a tap and made tea and coffee.
Ben and Cal went to the gas station to clean their chains. We finally left town about 1600 stocked up with food for 3 days. We knew there was water along the way.
The road soon turned to gravel.
The wind now changed to the south east and buffeted us. Some 22km from town we got to the Bella Vista bottle shop here we had cold drinks and they kindly let us camp behind a building out of the wind. Whilst cooking, a large scorpion decided to visit our camp. It was the colour of the sand and rather aggressive.
We made sure our tents were zipped closed
Another big pasta was enjoyed by all of us.
The wind did die off as the night got darker. The manager said elephants frequent this area. Especially to a water hole on the farm behind us.
A herder bought his goats in for the night to a pen where the dogs slept with them .
8/10/2015 Bella Vista bottle shop to 5km past the Twyfelfontein turnoff
D59,T4, Av14.68, max41, 47565, 11,662
Fine and very hot, SE winds
Waking up Ben found the scorpion under his tent. The manager came walking past the camp with a rabbit he had found killed on the road last night. He was going to eat it.
We were packed and ready to leave by about 0830. We gave the girl in the shop $50 for the night.
Out on the road the corrugations started, in places it was very bad.
The wind never really got up till about 1200. The vegetation was becoming more and more sparse.
It was a busy road with many tourists in hire four-wheel drives. Many registered out of South Africa.
We stopped at the NP that had the petrified forest display. Here we payed $60 ($AU6) and had a 25 minute walk through the area that was littered with pieces of petrified wood. There were only 3 or 4 intact logs. It was still interesting anyway.
Of more interest to me were the Welwitschia plants, they are endemic to here and the Namib desert. They are a tree dwarfed by the harshness of the desert. It produces only 2 leaves throughout its life time. Larger specimens can be up to 2000 years old.
It was nice to rest under the shelters made with the the grass thatched roofs that offered coolness.
Leaving here, we got amongst some gentle hills. Come 1400 we started looking for somewhere to have some lunch,. The best we could find was a partly leaved Mopane tree. Here we had a few cups of tea and and ate what we had and slept for an hour.
Back on the road we were still riding in the corrugations on the glary white gravelled road
T one point there was a local guy broken down in a VW van we could not offer much help. We tried to push start the vehicle but it was too heavy to push in the loose gravel.
Further up the road we got to a farm house amongst the rocky terrain, here was a windmill, we guessed there must have been water there.
On riding up the trsck to the windmill, the guy in the VW van was there, he had driven past us early, he must have got the vehicle fixed. Here we filled all our bottles and soaked ourselves in the trough, I got in completely. It felt so good to be immersed in the water out here. Other people said the temperature was 43°C.
We were now riding into strong head winds, luckily theuy were a little cooling. At the turnoff to Twyfelfontein, we stopped at the little stone shop there. Unbelievably they had 1 litre glass bottles of Coke here.
This really was like turning up at an oasis. We devoured one each, though Phil abstained.
We stopped and rest here till 1700.
The owner was keen to see us pay fees to camp there and was telling us about elephants and hyenas in the area. We said we would take our chances and camp.
There are desert elephants all through this region. We had seen their droppings only and a few broken limbs on trees.
Before leaving we topped up with water from the grader drivers camp across the road.
Some Damara women wandered by, they were wearing traditional clothing of beads both on their ankles and necks. They did not have tops on.
We took the turnoff to Twyfelfontein, about 4km up the road and found a camp site in a dry creek bed.
There were signs elephants had been here in the past. However it was a perfect campsite as all the other terrain was rocky. Here were set up on river gravel, it was not dusty.
We had the traditional pasta for dinner, now cooking for four.
We were in bed about 2100.
9/10/2015 5km past the Twyfelfontein turnoff Aba Huab campground
D27,T2, Av13.56, max28, 47593, 11,689
Fine and very hot, SE winds
It had been good cool night for sleeping. Ben had to repair a slow leak in his front tyre before leaving.
I was extremely hungry and had noodles and soya chunks as well as my normal breakfast.
We did not get away till about 0900. Some 15km up the road was the turnoff to Twyfelfontein. We took this and decided to go and see the rock drawings. Before doing so we stopped in t the Aba Huab camp ground for a drink.
It was another 4km to the World Heritage site of the rock drawings. These are some 2000-6000 years old. There were many safari groups here and private people in 4x4’s.
It was $60 to enter with a guide whom we tipped a dollar each.
We then rode back to the camp ground and settled in for an afternoon of relaxation in the shady surrounds.
10/10/2015 Aba Huab campground to Holmut
D73, T5.5, Av12.87, max35, 47666, 11,835
Fine and very hot, Sw winds
The camp was free from wind in the morning .
The wind starts about 1100 and continues till after dark, getting stronger in the afternoon.
We spoke with a Swiss couple who were camped next door to us. They spoke French so did Phil so they got on well.
They too were keen cyclists, though had not done to much touring. There are so many people here travelling around in hire 4x4’s. The road in this area is actually quite busy.
We were confronted by light winds as soon as we left. Some places in the road were very soft. On the odd occasion we had to walk but only for short distances of 10m or more. The road in many places was heavily corrugated due to the number of vehicles using it.
The scenery was almost other worldly. There were large hills formed by massive boulders stacked in a heap. Ll were an ochre colour.
Phil was feeling a bit sick but kept riding on.
At one point we met a convoy of new Porsche Cayennes being driven by people from different parts of Europe.
They gave us some sweets. Whilst another kind family stopped and gave us drinks and some good advice on Swakopmund.
Phil was struggling somewhat now and was well behind us.
Reaching the intersection for the road to Uis we stopped at the small complex there. They only had biscuits to eat.
The girls there told us that the village of Holmut was a few kilometres up the road. Riding up here was hard work into the cool head wind. On arrival we went to the only store and they were selling nothing but pasta and alcohol.
We then went over to the grader drivers van and asked for water, he had plenty and topped up all our vessels.
The wind was howling in this isolated desert community of no more than 5 houses. We say a flag blowing at one house and figured this may have been the village elder. He kindly let us camp in the lee of his house. It was cold and we really could not get out of the swirling dust laden wind.
We were all totally wornout. Phil was not feeling at all well. He took a malaria test from a portable kit he had. It proved negative.
We all just lay in our tents until 2000 then ventured out to cook a pasta.
Phil could not even eat. The wind had abated slightly as we got into bed about 2000hrs
11/10/2015 Holmut to Brandberg Rest camp, Uis
D69, T5.5, Av12.77, max44, 47735, 11,904
Fine and very hot, SE winds
The wind was still puffing gently in the clear morning, the colours were beautiful in the early light.
We ate breakfast,Phil ate little and headed off before us. He would be slow and we would catch him. I also had a flat tyre to repair before we left.
Once on the road we were already riding into a light head wind. The scenery was stunning. The vistas were huge and the road on many occasions reached in a straight line to the horizon.
We stopped at the Ugab river for some peanuts at the local shop and just over the bridge was a group of stalls selling touristy things. Here were tour group buses pulled up.
Some 32km on Phil had stopped at a newish shelter where some traditionally dressed woman were selling dolls and other items. There was room for us to spread out on the dirt floor. We cooked up some cans of food and dehy food packs from Australia. Phil was in a bad way and just lay down to sleep. We stopped here for two hours before moving on into what were now very strong head winds. It was as hard a riding I have had here in Africa.
The road, luckily was very wide and we could choose the best corrugated free path to take. On our right for almost all the 35km to Uis was Mt Brandberg, Namibias tallest mountain.
We were wearing out fast but just had to keep the front wheel moving foward. Even the slight down hill sections needed us to pedal against the cold wind.
Finally we got to the turnoff to Uis and Henties Bay. We turned left into Uis and filled up with petrol at the gas station, before setting up our tents.
11/10/2015 Brandberg Camp Area
The camp was one of the best we have been in since Nairobi. There was ample hot water, good showers and a great ablution area in which we cooked to keep out of the cool wind.
The owners gave us our second night here free. The day was spent washing clothes, watching TV, sleeping and eating, it was truly great.
We more or less had the place to ourselves.
All our gear was charged.
The mornings are now cool but warm up fast, just as the days cool down fast as the sun sets.
13/10/2015 Brandberg Rest camp, Uis to Desert camp
D84, T4.5, Av17.47, max45, 47,819, 11,986
Cool morning with bitterly cold winds
We were up especially early before light in order to try to beat the winds again.
It was a cool still morning when we got away at 0700. Ben and I went on ahead, not knowing that Cal had a flat tyre behind us.
For the first time we experienced the Namib Desert fog. It stayed very cool as the sun could not penetrate through it.
The road was slightly undulating for the first 15km then it just got flat and dead straight .
Luckily with few corrugations. Cal caught up to us and we stopped at a rest area in the middle of this flatness. The only signs of humans were the power poles, the road itself and the odd wheel track.
There were Ostriches off in the distance and we saw the odd fox.
Mirages were becoming quite common, with objects in the far distance appearing to float above a haze.
We saw a grader crew and their chuck wagon and loaded up on water for the night.
At 1400 we had made good progress and decided to camp in the desert. We found some feature off to our left and took a track into the diggings on the side of a small hillock. We crossed over this and came into a water-shed area on the other side and could not be seen from the road.
We set up our tents in the vastness and used rocks to secure them in the building wind.
The sun was hot but the wind cold. We spent the afternoon reading and sleeping in our tents. Near dark the wind had dropped a little. A number of rocks were collected to build a shelter from the wind so as we could cook. The rocks were all polished by windblown sands.
We were thinking that some of these stones may have been sitting where they were for thousands of years.
We had pasta for dinner. The MSR stove cooked perfectly in the windy conditions.
It was great to be in our cosy tents, here in this true desert environment. We really had a feeling of aloneness, it was a great feeling to be out here. Just us and the Namib Desert.
Sadly, this could be our last night wild camping together.
14/10/2015 Desert camp to Henties Bay
D52, T3.15, Av16.3, max29, 47,871, 12,038
Still mild morning in the desert
It was a bit of a job getting out of the sleeping bags. Surprisingly, outside the tent I was greeted by a calm rather mild morning. We had our coffees and cereal and headed of back to the road.
Out there it was the same as before, the fog was not so obvious this morning.
The road, again was dead straight and flat with an ever so gentle slope to the coast.
A vehicle stopped, the driver asked me where I was heading. It turned out he was from Windhoek and was a keen cyclist. Frank told me to catch up with him once I got there. He could help me find bike parts that were needed.
He mentioned Mannies bike shop was one of the best places for Shimano parts.
About 15km before the coast, the road improved. The surface was salt and dirt. It was hard packed and as good as asphalt. Riding was extremely enjoyable.
I had been riding in my long pants, runners and beany. This is the first time since Egypt. It was nice to have my feet back in shoes and socks.
In the early afternoon we got to the T junction with the C34 at the coast.
Turning left we were on our way to Henties bay. Crossing the road bridge over the dry Omaruru river, the Atlantic Ocean was spotted. For me it was an exciting moment, I had not seen the ocean since Trinidad and Tobago in December last year. As soon as we turned right into town, a panel repair shop was spotted. Here the guys gas welded my front fork braze on back into place.
They did a great job.
We had a lunch at a little seafood restaurant and got some supplies at the supermarket. This was a very touristy looking town. There were modern rendered homes, many of which were closed with drawn curtains.
We booked a site at Bucks camp area. It was a little like a prison camp with the little shower and kitchen buildings for each site.
These places are only really busy over January and February. There was us and two other groups here.
This town is a fishing mecca. Here they catch a fish called Steenbra which is the same species as our Jewfish or Mullaway in Austraia.
We spent the evening sitting around a fire with Joelene and Phillip, a Belguim couple travelling for a few weeks in a hire four wheel drive.
15/10/2015 Henties Bay to Cape Cross seal colony
D77, T4, Av17.86, max33, 47,948, 12,115
We took our time getting away to Cape Cross as we knew we would be aided by tailwinds. There was a group of guys from South Africa in the camp as well. They kindly bought us Steenbra cooked in butter with garlic and lemon. They had caught it yesterday. It was absolutely the best fish we had eaten for some time.
Once on the road, we were cruising along on the smooth salt surface. There were signs every 5-10km marking the entrance to a beach fishing spot. These were just firm tracks across the sand to the coast which was only 1.5 km from the road. The terrain was treeless and just a creamy sand with some species of low salt bush growing.
I headed into one of the coastal roads. Down here were some guys beach fishing with long roads in rod holders plugged into the sand. There were other people driving 4x4’salong the desolate beach.
The parking area was quite higher than the beach below. All this coast is famous for its beach fishing.
On the way up here the scenery was quite amazing. It was all creamy with hills with black rocks on their tops and ridges. It was very other wordly. There were a number of salt mines on the way up to Cape Cross. Once at the Park entrance we had to pay and eight dollar fee.
We were the only ones at the colony. The opportunity was taken to walk amongst the thousands of seals who seemed unusually scared of us. Most moved on mass to the water.
We were later told there is a seal industry here. They shoot the older seals and club the pups most mornings, early before the tourists arrive. . Though this sounds unecessay, these animals have few predators, Sharks are not in huge numbers and not many orcas visit here,.
Jackals are responsible for a few deaths. Otherwise their numbersare increasing.
We left here at 1630 with intentions of camping in the desert. We asked if we could camp amongst the buildings at the salt mine just outside the park.
The owner said that was fine.
We camped behind a building, which provided shelter.
It was great to be out of the wind.
16/10/2015 Cape Cross seal colony to Swakopmund
D118, T3, Av16.86, max33, 48,065, 12,233
Still morning, little fog, light winds
We were not looking forward to back tracking to Henties Bay in the head winds. The owner of the salt mine. A great guy had said last night he was heading in to town in his Ford F250 pickup early in the morning. So at 0700 we had the fully loaded bikes all in the back of the pickup and were in Henties Bay within an hour. It was quite unreal. We were in the tray with our bikes.
We could not poke our heads up as we were going that fast.
We arrived in Henties about 0800 and spent time chatting before heading to the supermarket to get something to eat.
We then got on the road to Swakopmund. The salt surfced road was smooth as ever.
We stopped to look at the wreck of the Ziela which had washed ashore after a tow line broke as she was being pulled to Walvis Bay. It was quite surreal to see this large vessel in the surf on this desolate beach. It had been there since 2008.
A water truck was wetting the road. This set the scene similar to riding through salt water. We roade on the gravel sidetrack for much of the distance.
Other vehicles were doing the same.
This was our last day riding together. This journey with Ben and Callum down from Nairobi over the last 5 months has been something none of us will ever forget.
It has been a very special time together for all of us. There were difficult times, fun times and family disagreement times.
All these moments as a group have left a deeply etched memory in our minds.
Getting close to Swakopmund, we stopped for a pic of us ner the large sign. It took 3 takes for the guys to get me on their shoulders. We crashed in a heap the first time and tore the crotch out of my pants on the second effort.
On arrival in Swakopmund we were taken back how modern and new it was.
Everything on the north side of town was new, modern rendered homes. All lightly coloured on browns and shades of green and cream. Their presence was not so contrasting to the colours of the landscape.
Getting closer to town, a Landcruiser passed us in the opposite direction. It was Willie and Rita whom we had met in the desert before Uis four days ago. They turned around and pulled up to talk. They kndly invited us back to their house.
On arrival at the huge modern home in Hage Heights, as we walked inside onto the tiled floors. There was water everywhere. It was cascading down the palacial stair case.
An upstairs toilet inlet had burst and had been spewing water for tha last four hours. We all got into full swing and began mopping and using whatever we could to push the water out the front door. Willie had a brilliant vacuum cleaner that sucked water. This was a saviour and got the job done very quick.
Within two hours we had the tide definitely going out. By dark things were getting back to normal. They were so lucky there was no carpet in the house. Just tile floors up and downstairs.
That evening we had a braai in the back yard. Oryx and beef were expertly cooked over coals.
They asked us to stay the night. It had been a crazy afternoon, the house was drying and we were all well fed.
We joked that they knew the house was flooded and got us back to clean it!
We have met and stayed with alot of people during our travels. Rita and Willie were the most hospital, kind and welcoming people I have met in a long time. We truly felt like family in their company. Their home was palatial to say the least. We had come from camping in the desert to the most luxurious of urban living by the sea here in Swakopmund.
17-20/10/2015 Swakopmund, at Willie and Ritas house
Our time here in Swakopmund has been one of sharing time and delicious food with great company.
The boys got to have a surf at the famous left hand wave at Donkey Bay. They were wrapped to have this opportunity with some local guys.
I have changed the wheels on my bike with Callums. He has 36 hole rims which are much stronger than mine. Africa for me so far has been about rear wheel problems. Hopefully this is over now. I also have Cals Surly front rack. It is much heavier than my old Tubus rack but has a carrier. This is great for carrying water.
New gloves were finally bought at one of the two reasonable bike shops here.
We had a great evening with brett and Leon from the well known restaurant here The Tug.
They cookedup just the best Asian dinner. It has been so long since I have eaten good asian food.
This is generally how I cook when at home.
Willie and Rita went to Itasha NP so we house sat for a few days.
The weather here is very unique to this coastal desert environment. In the mornings the sea fog comes onto the land, then about 1030 the sun burns it off and a great sunny mild day unfolds. About 1500 the fog comes in off the Atlantic again.
The marine environment is hard on metal objects with corrosion a constant problem.
Even here the internet is not so reliable.
We have been watching the World Cup rugby. Being an old Kiwi, I always back them, it is a real Springbok bastion here.
20-30/10/2015 Swakopmund, at Willie and Ritas house
We had booked into the Desert Sky Backpackers hostel. On Willie and Ritas return, they would have no part in us going to stay there. So we spent the last week with them.
They treated us like family. Importantly we all got on really well.
With both Australia and NZ in the final, we were happy anyway. We enjoyed nine holes at the Swakopmund desert golf club and a game of tennis with Rita who plays a great game. Rita and I beat the guys. We also went for a swim in the frigid waters at the Strand Hotel. The boys got their bike boxes from the local bike shop here.
A fantastic meal was enjoyed at the Tug restaurant where we all enjoyed seafood. The sole was especially nice.
Rita also cooked a traditional lamb dish from South Africa. We cooked up a peppered chicken dish on our last evening.
The weather here is very mild, normally a sea fog comes in over the land in the evening and is still around in the morning till about 1000 or 1100 then the sun burns it off. This leaves a lovely day.
The prevailing southeasterly wind is often very cool.
We had booked into the Desert Sky Backpackers hostel. On Willie and Ritas return, they would have no part in us going to stay there. So we spent the last week with them.
They treated us like family. Importantly we all got on really well.
With both Australia and NZ in the final, we were happy anyway. We enjoyed nine holes at the Swakopmund desert golf club and a game of tennis with Rita who plays a great game. Rita and I beat the guys. We also went for a swim in the frigid waters at the Strand Hotel. The boys got their bike boxes from the local bike shop here.
A fantastic meal was enjoyed at the Tug restaurant where we all enjoyed seafood. The sole was especially nice.
Rita also cooked a traditional lamb dish from South Africa. We cooked up a peppered chicken dish on our last evening.
The weather here is very mild, normally a sea fog comes in over the land in the evening and is still around in the morning till about 1000 or 1100 then the sun burns it off. This leaves a lovely day.
The prevailing southeasterly wind is often very cool.
1/10/2015 Grootfontein gas station to Peace Garden camp
D17, T3, Av18.43 Max 46, 47,085, 11,186
We had slept below a wall on our airbeds and were awoken to water flowing all around and under us. Someone had tipped a bucket of water above us and it had drained down to us.
Luckily, only our airbeds got wet.
So, we were up very early. There were lots of other people sleeping around the modern gas station, no mzungus though .
We were ready to ride into town about 0900. Here we got MTC sim cards and had a salad lunch in a park.
Namibia is so different from other countries visited, it has a supermarket culture, with few markets on the streets.
Most people driving late model cars are mzungus. Many of them are landholders around the area.
Accommodation was too expensive so we headed out of town to the Peace Garden Resort. Here we got a campsite with all facilities for $US8.
2/10/2015 Peace Garden camp to camp outside of Otavi
D93, T5, Av17.84 Max 33, 47,178, 11,279
The roads here in Namibia are little used and in perfect condition with rest areas and modern signage. Every 10km was a distance sign.The road was dead flat and straight. It was cycle touring near its purest. Just us out in the middle of nowhere.
We got to the little village of Kombat, where the local people outside the only bottle shop said, welcome to Povertyville. There was once a copper mine here. It had recently flooded and was abandoned, leaving most of the village out of work.
Most people now work on the large farms in the area. Many grow maize and raise Brahman cattle.
Here we ate baked beans and this terrible processed meat. We joked that we might start barking after lunch, such was the meat roll we ate with the baked beans.
We got into Otavi quite late, but just in time to get some supplies at the Spar supermarket. From here we stocked up on water and camped just outside of town past the new subdivision on the back road to Outjo .
3/10/2015 Camp outside of Otavi to Marco and Deirdres farm
D82, T4.3, Av17.94 Max 42, 47,260, 11,361
I was up during the night with mild diarrhoea. It seemed to have improved by the morning. We rode the hundred metres back to the y junction to take the left hand fork.
The road was a creamy limestone surface and was hard packed. This made for an incredibly smooth ride on the dirt road. It was flat most of the way. There were properties along the way that had signposts up saying they were hunting areas. One was advertising it was a bow hunting area.
Not many houses were visible as the roads headed into the small treed scrub.
We stopped at one farmhouse that locals lived in and got water from an above ground storage area that was being fed by a windmill.
From here, we stopped at the only piece of shade we could find, a tree partly in leaf. We stopped here for a cuple of hours. Ben had a puncture to repair. Whilst stopped a four wheel drive and camper went past. Five minutes later, it was coming back our way. They pulled over and offered us three cold beers, can you believe it. Here we were in this dry hot environment sipping on deliciously cold beer. Andre and his family were on their way for a weekend camping trip from Windhoek.
They were great people and stopped for a chat. We said we would catch up with them in Windhoek when we arrived in a months time.
Once back on the road it had cooled down a bit. About 1730 we stopped at a farm house for the nights water.
The owner Marco asked us if we would like to camp there for the night.
We set up on lush green grass on the shady back lawn. This was such a treat. Deirdre, his wife cooked us a beautiful meal and we watched the Aussies beat England in the rugby world cup.
We all slept like logs feeling very safe in the back yard. Marco had shot an Oryx the day before and had the large hind and forequarters hanging in his walk in cool room.
Itosha NP was just over the hills to our north. He said he grew potatoes on irrigated land on his property. Namibia has good supplies of ground water some as close as 10m below the surface. He also said they only receive about 500mm of rain a year.
I left all my used maps with Marco and Deirdre, hopefully they will be of use to them.
4/10/2015 Marco and Deirdres farm to Outjo, Fifis house
D81, T4.3, Av18.74 Max 42, 47,341, 11,442
Overcast and comfortable 25°C
We had a late departure. I cleaned my MSR stove and had all sorts of problems trying to get the wire cable back in the fuel line all the way.
We said our goodbyes and headed off down the smooth road again.
Things were still just the same, a wide little used road and huge landscapes. We were blessed with a cool overcast day which even saw a few spots of rain fall. During the bus trip a couple of days ago, there was an electrical storm while we crossed the Caprivi Strip, there too was some rain.
It was easy riding till the underpass of the rail line. We then had head winds before reaching Outjo. As usual it was straight to the big supermarket. I have started drinking milk which is readily available here.
Coca cola is only sold in cans and is expensive. I think it is such an awful drink unless it comes very cold and from glass bottles.
Whilst at the supermarket, a character of a guy came and chatted to us. Fifi was about 70 and of German extraction. We got on well, he invited us to stay at his house .
We followed him there. He was a very intelligent man who had had an interesting life. His passion was firearms on which has written and is writing books. He also makes silencers for rifles in his well equipped workshop.
He also built a 60-foot steel schooner in his younger days.
We slept inside his house, which he made us feel so welcome in. The Namibian people have been some of the most hospitable,to date, it has been great.
I left my mosquito net with Fifi who said only a few days ago he was thinking of buying a new mosquito net. I was pleased it had been left with someone who needed it.
6/10/2015 Outjo to 50km from Khorixas
D85,T4, Av21, max52, 47426, 11,507
Fine and very hot, NE winds.
Leaving town we stopped at a cafe and the supermarket, at the cafe was another cyclist. Phillip was from Belguim and had come down from Cameroon through Angola. We spent about half an hour here talking with other people from Wales who had hired four wheel drives.
Phil decided to come with us. He had not seen another cyclist for 8 months so was very happy to have company.
The road was in very good condition with great signage,. The distance to Khorixas was marked every 10km.
It was great to have another rider with us. Ben and cal have been with me for four months now. There are times when we have the normal family heated discussions or arguments. Though, so far it has been a very special time together.
I heard a banging noise and sure enough a spoke had broken on the cassette side of the rear wheel.
This was repaired with Phil in company. Then some 10km up the road a loud noise was heard again. This time to had broken. My wheel had a huge buckle in it and could hardly be wheel along the road.
I am getting quite good at truing wheels now. This time some spokes were lossened as well as tightened.
I am finding some of them are just to tight. Once this was done, we caught up to Cal and Ben who had been waiting up ahead.
As the day wore on the colours of the setting sun really add drama to the sparsely treed landscape.
We needed water, and got to the entrance to Bamasti Lodge and phoned the owner. He kindly said he would bring water down to us. We also asked him to bring some Coke down. He was a great guy and arrived with 3 cold 5l containers of water and 6 cans of coke all cold .
We filled our bottles and had a chat for half an hour.
He had the generosity to give us the Coca Cola which was very kind, even though we insisted on paying.
Once loaded we rode 5km down the road and found some trees to camp behind on the road reserve.
We had a pasta and even got a few spots of rain from a very black cloud that passed overhead. It was not long before it was just another dark starry night .
7/10/2015 50km from Khorixas to Bella Vista bottle shop
D80,T3.4, Av21.63, max71, 47506, 11,587
Fine and very hot, NE winds.
Few vehicles passed all night and it remained dry. The air is incredibly dry and wet tea towels with dry overnight in the cool dry air.
Once up we had breakfast and were on the road by 0900.
Again it was easy fast riding.
The temperatures are great until about 1200, then it starts heating up rapidly, today was no different.
We still had great nor east tail winds. The scenery is now dominated by the whitish soils and rocks with sparse smallish deciduous trees.
At one point in the road we had an elevated view of the vast landscape west. Ben,cal and I stopped and decided to have a race down here. We got up to 74 km/hr on the smooth black surface.
My spokes were holding out so all was good.
A new noise had appeared from front racks. On inspection it was frund that the braze on where my pannier is connected to the forks had broken free.
It was still ok though but needed seeing to.
We stopped about 1300 and had lunch in a culvert under the road just to get out of the sun.
I stopped to replenish my water from a ramshackle far house. Here the woman topped up two bottles for me.
On the outskirts of Khorixas was a vehicle repair place. Here they were about to gas weld the fitting back on and ran out of gas.
They then bought out a stick welder which I stopped them from using. We decided to wire it back in place. This held it tight enough.
On reaching Khorixas we went straight to the supermarket and started drinking fluids for the next half hour. Yoghurt, milk and water were swallowed with hast.
The supermarket was areal focl point with people everywhere.
It was frightfully hot now. We rode around town looking for some good shade and found some alongside a building and stopped here for an hour or two and washed ourselves under a tap and made tea and coffee.
Ben and Cal went to the gas station to clean their chains. We finally left town about 1600 stocked up with food for 3 days. We knew there was water along the way.
The road soon turned to gravel.
The wind now changed to the south east and buffeted us. Some 22km from town we got to the Bella Vista bottle shop here we had cold drinks and they kindly let us camp behind a building out of the wind. Whilst cooking, a large scorpion decided to visit our camp. It was the colour of the sand and rather aggressive.
We made sure our tents were zipped closed
Another big pasta was enjoyed by all of us.
The wind did die off as the night got darker. The manager said elephants frequent this area. Especially to a water hole on the farm behind us.
A herder bought his goats in for the night to a pen where the dogs slept with them .
8/10/2015 Bella Vista bottle shop to 5km past the Twyfelfontein turnoff
D59,T4, Av14.68, max41, 47565, 11,662
Fine and very hot, SE winds
Waking up Ben found the scorpion under his tent. The manager came walking past the camp with a rabbit he had found killed on the road last night. He was going to eat it.
We were packed and ready to leave by about 0830. We gave the girl in the shop $50 for the night.
Out on the road the corrugations started, in places it was very bad.
The wind never really got up till about 1200. The vegetation was becoming more and more sparse.
It was a busy road with many tourists in hire four-wheel drives. Many registered out of South Africa.
We stopped at the NP that had the petrified forest display. Here we payed $60 ($AU6) and had a 25 minute walk through the area that was littered with pieces of petrified wood. There were only 3 or 4 intact logs. It was still interesting anyway.
Of more interest to me were the Welwitschia plants, they are endemic to here and the Namib desert. They are a tree dwarfed by the harshness of the desert. It produces only 2 leaves throughout its life time. Larger specimens can be up to 2000 years old.
It was nice to rest under the shelters made with the the grass thatched roofs that offered coolness.
Leaving here, we got amongst some gentle hills. Come 1400 we started looking for somewhere to have some lunch,. The best we could find was a partly leaved Mopane tree. Here we had a few cups of tea and and ate what we had and slept for an hour.
Back on the road we were still riding in the corrugations on the glary white gravelled road
T one point there was a local guy broken down in a VW van we could not offer much help. We tried to push start the vehicle but it was too heavy to push in the loose gravel.
Further up the road we got to a farm house amongst the rocky terrain, here was a windmill, we guessed there must have been water there.
On riding up the trsck to the windmill, the guy in the VW van was there, he had driven past us early, he must have got the vehicle fixed. Here we filled all our bottles and soaked ourselves in the trough, I got in completely. It felt so good to be immersed in the water out here. Other people said the temperature was 43°C.
We were now riding into strong head winds, luckily theuy were a little cooling. At the turnoff to Twyfelfontein, we stopped at the little stone shop there. Unbelievably they had 1 litre glass bottles of Coke here.
This really was like turning up at an oasis. We devoured one each, though Phil abstained.
We stopped and rest here till 1700.
The owner was keen to see us pay fees to camp there and was telling us about elephants and hyenas in the area. We said we would take our chances and camp.
There are desert elephants all through this region. We had seen their droppings only and a few broken limbs on trees.
Before leaving we topped up with water from the grader drivers camp across the road.
Some Damara women wandered by, they were wearing traditional clothing of beads both on their ankles and necks. They did not have tops on.
We took the turnoff to Twyfelfontein, about 4km up the road and found a camp site in a dry creek bed.
There were signs elephants had been here in the past. However it was a perfect campsite as all the other terrain was rocky. Here were set up on river gravel, it was not dusty.
We had the traditional pasta for dinner, now cooking for four.
We were in bed about 2100.
9/10/2015 5km past the Twyfelfontein turnoff Aba Huab campground
D27,T2, Av13.56, max28, 47593, 11,689
Fine and very hot, SE winds
It had been good cool night for sleeping. Ben had to repair a slow leak in his front tyre before leaving.
I was extremely hungry and had noodles and soya chunks as well as my normal breakfast.
We did not get away till about 0900. Some 15km up the road was the turnoff to Twyfelfontein. We took this and decided to go and see the rock drawings. Before doing so we stopped in t the Aba Huab camp ground for a drink.
It was another 4km to the World Heritage site of the rock drawings. These are some 2000-6000 years old. There were many safari groups here and private people in 4x4’s.
It was $60 to enter with a guide whom we tipped a dollar each.
We then rode back to the camp ground and settled in for an afternoon of relaxation in the shady surrounds.
10/10/2015 Aba Huab campground to Holmut
D73, T5.5, Av12.87, max35, 47666, 11,835
Fine and very hot, Sw winds
The camp was free from wind in the morning .
The wind starts about 1100 and continues till after dark, getting stronger in the afternoon.
We spoke with a Swiss couple who were camped next door to us. They spoke French so did Phil so they got on well.
They too were keen cyclists, though had not done to much touring. There are so many people here travelling around in hire 4x4’s. The road in this area is actually quite busy.
We were confronted by light winds as soon as we left. Some places in the road were very soft. On the odd occasion we had to walk but only for short distances of 10m or more. The road in many places was heavily corrugated due to the number of vehicles using it.
The scenery was almost other worldly. There were large hills formed by massive boulders stacked in a heap. Ll were an ochre colour.
Phil was feeling a bit sick but kept riding on.
At one point we met a convoy of new Porsche Cayennes being driven by people from different parts of Europe.
They gave us some sweets. Whilst another kind family stopped and gave us drinks and some good advice on Swakopmund.
Phil was struggling somewhat now and was well behind us.
Reaching the intersection for the road to Uis we stopped at the small complex there. They only had biscuits to eat.
The girls there told us that the village of Holmut was a few kilometres up the road. Riding up here was hard work into the cool head wind. On arrival we went to the only store and they were selling nothing but pasta and alcohol.
We then went over to the grader drivers van and asked for water, he had plenty and topped up all our vessels.
The wind was howling in this isolated desert community of no more than 5 houses. We say a flag blowing at one house and figured this may have been the village elder. He kindly let us camp in the lee of his house. It was cold and we really could not get out of the swirling dust laden wind.
We were all totally wornout. Phil was not feeling at all well. He took a malaria test from a portable kit he had. It proved negative.
We all just lay in our tents until 2000 then ventured out to cook a pasta.
Phil could not even eat. The wind had abated slightly as we got into bed about 2000hrs
11/10/2015 Holmut to Brandberg Rest camp, Uis
D69, T5.5, Av12.77, max44, 47735, 11,904
Fine and very hot, SE winds
The wind was still puffing gently in the clear morning, the colours were beautiful in the early light.
We ate breakfast,Phil ate little and headed off before us. He would be slow and we would catch him. I also had a flat tyre to repair before we left.
Once on the road we were already riding into a light head wind. The scenery was stunning. The vistas were huge and the road on many occasions reached in a straight line to the horizon.
We stopped at the Ugab river for some peanuts at the local shop and just over the bridge was a group of stalls selling touristy things. Here were tour group buses pulled up.
Some 32km on Phil had stopped at a newish shelter where some traditionally dressed woman were selling dolls and other items. There was room for us to spread out on the dirt floor. We cooked up some cans of food and dehy food packs from Australia. Phil was in a bad way and just lay down to sleep. We stopped here for two hours before moving on into what were now very strong head winds. It was as hard a riding I have had here in Africa.
The road, luckily was very wide and we could choose the best corrugated free path to take. On our right for almost all the 35km to Uis was Mt Brandberg, Namibias tallest mountain.
We were wearing out fast but just had to keep the front wheel moving foward. Even the slight down hill sections needed us to pedal against the cold wind.
Finally we got to the turnoff to Uis and Henties Bay. We turned left into Uis and filled up with petrol at the gas station, before setting up our tents.
11/10/2015 Brandberg Camp Area
The camp was one of the best we have been in since Nairobi. There was ample hot water, good showers and a great ablution area in which we cooked to keep out of the cool wind.
The owners gave us our second night here free. The day was spent washing clothes, watching TV, sleeping and eating, it was truly great.
We more or less had the place to ourselves.
All our gear was charged.
The mornings are now cool but warm up fast, just as the days cool down fast as the sun sets.
13/10/2015 Brandberg Rest camp, Uis to Desert camp
D84, T4.5, Av17.47, max45, 47,819, 11,986
Cool morning with bitterly cold winds
We were up especially early before light in order to try to beat the winds again.
It was a cool still morning when we got away at 0700. Ben and I went on ahead, not knowing that Cal had a flat tyre behind us.
For the first time we experienced the Namib Desert fog. It stayed very cool as the sun could not penetrate through it.
The road was slightly undulating for the first 15km then it just got flat and dead straight .
Luckily with few corrugations. Cal caught up to us and we stopped at a rest area in the middle of this flatness. The only signs of humans were the power poles, the road itself and the odd wheel track.
There were Ostriches off in the distance and we saw the odd fox.
Mirages were becoming quite common, with objects in the far distance appearing to float above a haze.
We saw a grader crew and their chuck wagon and loaded up on water for the night.
At 1400 we had made good progress and decided to camp in the desert. We found some feature off to our left and took a track into the diggings on the side of a small hillock. We crossed over this and came into a water-shed area on the other side and could not be seen from the road.
We set up our tents in the vastness and used rocks to secure them in the building wind.
The sun was hot but the wind cold. We spent the afternoon reading and sleeping in our tents. Near dark the wind had dropped a little. A number of rocks were collected to build a shelter from the wind so as we could cook. The rocks were all polished by windblown sands.
We were thinking that some of these stones may have been sitting where they were for thousands of years.
We had pasta for dinner. The MSR stove cooked perfectly in the windy conditions.
It was great to be in our cosy tents, here in this true desert environment. We really had a feeling of aloneness, it was a great feeling to be out here. Just us and the Namib Desert.
Sadly, this could be our last night wild camping together.
14/10/2015 Desert camp to Henties Bay
D52, T3.15, Av16.3, max29, 47,871, 12,038
Still mild morning in the desert
It was a bit of a job getting out of the sleeping bags. Surprisingly, outside the tent I was greeted by a calm rather mild morning. We had our coffees and cereal and headed of back to the road.
Out there it was the same as before, the fog was not so obvious this morning.
The road, again was dead straight and flat with an ever so gentle slope to the coast.
A vehicle stopped, the driver asked me where I was heading. It turned out he was from Windhoek and was a keen cyclist. Frank told me to catch up with him once I got there. He could help me find bike parts that were needed.
He mentioned Mannies bike shop was one of the best places for Shimano parts.
About 15km before the coast, the road improved. The surface was salt and dirt. It was hard packed and as good as asphalt. Riding was extremely enjoyable.
I had been riding in my long pants, runners and beany. This is the first time since Egypt. It was nice to have my feet back in shoes and socks.
In the early afternoon we got to the T junction with the C34 at the coast.
Turning left we were on our way to Henties bay. Crossing the road bridge over the dry Omaruru river, the Atlantic Ocean was spotted. For me it was an exciting moment, I had not seen the ocean since Trinidad and Tobago in December last year. As soon as we turned right into town, a panel repair shop was spotted. Here the guys gas welded my front fork braze on back into place.
They did a great job.
We had a lunch at a little seafood restaurant and got some supplies at the supermarket. This was a very touristy looking town. There were modern rendered homes, many of which were closed with drawn curtains.
We booked a site at Bucks camp area. It was a little like a prison camp with the little shower and kitchen buildings for each site.
These places are only really busy over January and February. There was us and two other groups here.
This town is a fishing mecca. Here they catch a fish called Steenbra which is the same species as our Jewfish or Mullaway in Austraia.
We spent the evening sitting around a fire with Joelene and Phillip, a Belguim couple travelling for a few weeks in a hire four wheel drive.
15/10/2015 Henties Bay to Cape Cross seal colony
D77, T4, Av17.86, max33, 47,948, 12,115
We took our time getting away to Cape Cross as we knew we would be aided by tailwinds. There was a group of guys from South Africa in the camp as well. They kindly bought us Steenbra cooked in butter with garlic and lemon. They had caught it yesterday. It was absolutely the best fish we had eaten for some time.
Once on the road, we were cruising along on the smooth salt surface. There were signs every 5-10km marking the entrance to a beach fishing spot. These were just firm tracks across the sand to the coast which was only 1.5 km from the road. The terrain was treeless and just a creamy sand with some species of low salt bush growing.
I headed into one of the coastal roads. Down here were some guys beach fishing with long roads in rod holders plugged into the sand. There were other people driving 4x4’salong the desolate beach.
The parking area was quite higher than the beach below. All this coast is famous for its beach fishing.
On the way up here the scenery was quite amazing. It was all creamy with hills with black rocks on their tops and ridges. It was very other wordly. There were a number of salt mines on the way up to Cape Cross. Once at the Park entrance we had to pay and eight dollar fee.
We were the only ones at the colony. The opportunity was taken to walk amongst the thousands of seals who seemed unusually scared of us. Most moved on mass to the water.
We were later told there is a seal industry here. They shoot the older seals and club the pups most mornings, early before the tourists arrive. . Though this sounds unecessay, these animals have few predators, Sharks are not in huge numbers and not many orcas visit here,.
Jackals are responsible for a few deaths. Otherwise their numbersare increasing.
We left here at 1630 with intentions of camping in the desert. We asked if we could camp amongst the buildings at the salt mine just outside the park.
The owner said that was fine.
We camped behind a building, which provided shelter.
It was great to be out of the wind.
16/10/2015 Cape Cross seal colony to Swakopmund
D118, T3, Av16.86, max33, 48,065, 12,233
Still morning, little fog, light winds
We were not looking forward to back tracking to Henties Bay in the head winds. The owner of the salt mine. A great guy had said last night he was heading in to town in his Ford F250 pickup early in the morning. So at 0700 we had the fully loaded bikes all in the back of the pickup and were in Henties Bay within an hour. It was quite unreal. We were in the tray with our bikes.
We could not poke our heads up as we were going that fast.
We arrived in Henties about 0800 and spent time chatting before heading to the supermarket to get something to eat.
We then got on the road to Swakopmund. The salt surfced road was smooth as ever.
We stopped to look at the wreck of the Ziela which had washed ashore after a tow line broke as she was being pulled to Walvis Bay. It was quite surreal to see this large vessel in the surf on this desolate beach. It had been there since 2008.
A water truck was wetting the road. This set the scene similar to riding through salt water. We roade on the gravel sidetrack for much of the distance.
Other vehicles were doing the same.
This was our last day riding together. This journey with Ben and Callum down from Nairobi over the last 5 months has been something none of us will ever forget.
It has been a very special time together for all of us. There were difficult times, fun times and family disagreement times.
All these moments as a group have left a deeply etched memory in our minds.
Getting close to Swakopmund, we stopped for a pic of us ner the large sign. It took 3 takes for the guys to get me on their shoulders. We crashed in a heap the first time and tore the crotch out of my pants on the second effort.
On arrival in Swakopmund we were taken back how modern and new it was.
Everything on the north side of town was new, modern rendered homes. All lightly coloured on browns and shades of green and cream. Their presence was not so contrasting to the colours of the landscape.
Getting closer to town, a Landcruiser passed us in the opposite direction. It was Willie and Rita whom we had met in the desert before Uis four days ago. They turned around and pulled up to talk. They kndly invited us back to their house.
On arrival at the huge modern home in Hage Heights, as we walked inside onto the tiled floors. There was water everywhere. It was cascading down the palacial stair case.
An upstairs toilet inlet had burst and had been spewing water for tha last four hours. We all got into full swing and began mopping and using whatever we could to push the water out the front door. Willie had a brilliant vacuum cleaner that sucked water. This was a saviour and got the job done very quick.
Within two hours we had the tide definitely going out. By dark things were getting back to normal. They were so lucky there was no carpet in the house. Just tile floors up and downstairs.
That evening we had a braai in the back yard. Oryx and beef were expertly cooked over coals.
They asked us to stay the night. It had been a crazy afternoon, the house was drying and we were all well fed.
We joked that they knew the house was flooded and got us back to clean it!
We have met and stayed with alot of people during our travels. Rita and Willie were the most hospital, kind and welcoming people I have met in a long time. We truly felt like family in their company. Their home was palatial to say the least. We had come from camping in the desert to the most luxurious of urban living by the sea here in Swakopmund.
17-20/10/2015 Swakopmund, at Willie and Ritas house
Our time here in Swakopmund has been one of sharing time and delicious food with great company.
The boys got to have a surf at the famous left hand wave at Donkey Bay. They were wrapped to have this opportunity with some local guys.
I have changed the wheels on my bike with Callums. He has 36 hole rims which are much stronger than mine. Africa for me so far has been about rear wheel problems. Hopefully this is over now. I also have Cals Surly front rack. It is much heavier than my old Tubus rack but has a carrier. This is great for carrying water.
New gloves were finally bought at one of the two reasonable bike shops here.
We had a great evening with brett and Leon from the well known restaurant here The Tug.
They cookedup just the best Asian dinner. It has been so long since I have eaten good asian food.
This is generally how I cook when at home.
Willie and Rita went to Itasha NP so we house sat for a few days.
The weather here is very unique to this coastal desert environment. In the mornings the sea fog comes onto the land, then about 1030 the sun burns it off and a great sunny mild day unfolds. About 1500 the fog comes in off the Atlantic again.
The marine environment is hard on metal objects with corrosion a constant problem.
Even here the internet is not so reliable.
We have been watching the World Cup rugby. Being an old Kiwi, I always back them, it is a real Springbok bastion here.
20-30/10/2015 Swakopmund, at Willie and Ritas house
We had booked into the Desert Sky Backpackers hostel. On Willie and Ritas return, they would have no part in us going to stay there. So we spent the last week with them.
They treated us like family. Importantly we all got on really well.
With both Australia and NZ in the final, we were happy anyway. We enjoyed nine holes at the Swakopmund desert golf club and a game of tennis with Rita who plays a great game. Rita and I beat the guys. We also went for a swim in the frigid waters at the Strand Hotel. The boys got their bike boxes from the local bike shop here.
A fantastic meal was enjoyed at the Tug restaurant where we all enjoyed seafood. The sole was especially nice.
Rita also cooked a traditional lamb dish from South Africa. We cooked up a peppered chicken dish on our last evening.
The weather here is very mild, normally a sea fog comes in over the land in the evening and is still around in the morning till about 1000 or 1100 then the sun burns it off. This leaves a lovely day.
The prevailing southeasterly wind is often very cool.
Marco, Deirdre and family with their helpers children.
Such an enjoyable evening and morning was spent in their company
More broken spokes, on my rear wheel. Some time out for a pic
Early evening colours, just such a nice time of day to be riding here in Namibia
With Phil, this culvert was our only escape from the desert heat. Near Khorixas
Stocked up on water.
Shelter from the wind
On the way to Cape Cross from Henties Bay
heading to Cape Cross on the great salt road surface
Cape Cross seal colony
Cape Cross lodge, not much else here.
Zeila wreck between Henties Bay and Swakopmund
Brilliant salt roads near the turnoff to Henties Bay.
Lunch in Kombat, we bought processed sausage. It is a wonder we did not start barking after eating it!
We spent two great nights with Fifi in Outjo. An engineer, yacht builder, arms expert, author and intellectual, all combined in a great guy.
Petrified forest near Twyfelfontein
Dry creek beds offered the only soft camping sites on the way to Twyfelfontein
Water was collected at most farms we passed on the way from Khorixas to Twyfelfontein
Desert elephants frequented here. We did not see any.
Sleepin' in the midday sun on the way to Uis. Phil was feeling sick and took a lift from here.
Brandberg camp area, Uis
Leaving Uis very early to avoid the prevailing south wester.
Our last wild campsite together on the road between Uis and Henties Bay
What a journey together!!
Between henties Bay and Cape Cross.
So much like the famous Ruta Cuarenta in Argentina minus the ocean.
Journeys end!!
The Braai at Willie and Ritas house
Not to many trees here in the Namib desert.
Willie and Rita have been so good to . We have had a great time together. We have all put on weight after all the lovely food!!
Swakopmund foreshores
Dinner at the Tug, a very popular restaurant here in Swakopmund
Swakopmund desert golf course
Springbok were grazing all over the golf course and leaving quite a mess on the fairways.