4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin
D41, T4. 9, v10.18, Max 36, Tot 13825, 3759
High cloud in morning, a cool evening
The dew was heavy to say the least, I asked Julio if he and his wife would like a coffee, they both accepted. I like to do this where possible if camping on people’s property.
A wet tent was packed.
There were still two huge traverses to see me exit the cauldron. Last night as the work trucks were heading back to Celendín, their lights could be seen above in the distance.
Unfortunately, broken cloud robbed me of uninterrupted views on the way up. As I left the valley, a stop was had to have a can of tuna and biscuits.
Next thing, along came a wasp with 4 people on board, there is no way you would catch me in one of those on this road.
Coming up, there were two epitaphs to those who had perished on the road. One had seven names and photos and the other had nine. I dare not think of the intricacies of their fate.
Having become a bit addicted to the scenery, leaving the cauldron was a bit of a come down.
The town of El Lanche at the summit was reached.
The road was undulating for sometime before Celendín came into view.
Above the town some 8km out some guys were constructing a clay house in a paddock.
I parked the bike, left the Peruano music going and wandered over. They were a friendly bunch of guys.
The house was being built of rammed earth from a hole they were digging next to it.
One of them about my age asked me if I wanted to chew some coca leaves, he gave me a handful from a bag and I stuffed them in my mouth, chewing them to a pulp. They were very dry. He gave me a swig of aquadiente to help moisten the scene.
It is grown in the hills all around here I was told.
Once chewed to a pulp he then gave me a white powder to put in my mouth.
This was when my gums all went numb and a feeling not dissimilar to a super strong coffee overcame me, probably understating it a bit.
We chatting more, my interest in the construction saw me take some photos. Their dog would not let me near it no matter how hard I tried to woo it. They had a good laugh each time it tried to bite me.
I gave them a few sol for some more leaf which will be used when riding in altitudes above 3500m. I want to see if it really helps as they say it does.
Possession of Coca leaf here in Peru is totally legal.
The ride into town was enjoyable to say the least.
Once in Celendín, some supplies were bought, as was a seafood fry up, fairly ordinary. Another bur had flattened the front tyre. A new tube was bought and fitted in the guys shop.
Some Sodium Bicarbonate was bought at a pharmacy to go with the Coca leaf, this releases the active ingredient in the leaf. They did not have llitja which also releases the active ingredients.
This information was found on the net in town.
All this done, a decision was made to ride on. The road out of town was atrocious, just a track.
I really wanted to get to Cajamarca tomorrow.
Riding on, the surface changed to asphalt, so smooth.
At about 1600 a gravel storage spot road side was spotted as was an unused house.
I asked a lady if I could camp there, it was good. Under the eaves I could dry the tent and not wear all of the dew.
My stoves is not working properly, it was dismantled and still would not work properly.
D41, T4. 9, v10.18, Max 36, Tot 13825, 3759
High cloud in morning, a cool evening
The dew was heavy to say the least, I asked Julio if he and his wife would like a coffee, they both accepted. I like to do this where possible if camping on people’s property.
A wet tent was packed.
There were still two huge traverses to see me exit the cauldron. Last night as the work trucks were heading back to Celendín, their lights could be seen above in the distance.
Unfortunately, broken cloud robbed me of uninterrupted views on the way up. As I left the valley, a stop was had to have a can of tuna and biscuits.
Next thing, along came a wasp with 4 people on board, there is no way you would catch me in one of those on this road.
Coming up, there were two epitaphs to those who had perished on the road. One had seven names and photos and the other had nine. I dare not think of the intricacies of their fate.
Having become a bit addicted to the scenery, leaving the cauldron was a bit of a come down.
The town of El Lanche at the summit was reached.
The road was undulating for sometime before Celendín came into view.
Above the town some 8km out some guys were constructing a clay house in a paddock.
I parked the bike, left the Peruano music going and wandered over. They were a friendly bunch of guys.
The house was being built of rammed earth from a hole they were digging next to it.
One of them about my age asked me if I wanted to chew some coca leaves, he gave me a handful from a bag and I stuffed them in my mouth, chewing them to a pulp. They were very dry. He gave me a swig of aquadiente to help moisten the scene.
It is grown in the hills all around here I was told.
Once chewed to a pulp he then gave me a white powder to put in my mouth.
This was when my gums all went numb and a feeling not dissimilar to a super strong coffee overcame me, probably understating it a bit.
We chatting more, my interest in the construction saw me take some photos. Their dog would not let me near it no matter how hard I tried to woo it. They had a good laugh each time it tried to bite me.
I gave them a few sol for some more leaf which will be used when riding in altitudes above 3500m. I want to see if it really helps as they say it does.
Possession of Coca leaf here in Peru is totally legal.
The ride into town was enjoyable to say the least.
Once in Celendín, some supplies were bought, as was a seafood fry up, fairly ordinary. Another bur had flattened the front tyre. A new tube was bought and fitted in the guys shop.
Some Sodium Bicarbonate was bought at a pharmacy to go with the Coca leaf, this releases the active ingredient in the leaf. They did not have llitja which also releases the active ingredients.
This information was found on the net in town.
All this done, a decision was made to ride on. The road out of town was atrocious, just a track.
I really wanted to get to Cajamarca tomorrow.
Riding on, the surface changed to asphalt, so smooth.
At about 1600 a gravel storage spot road side was spotted as was an unused house.
I asked a lady if I could camp there, it was good. Under the eaves I could dry the tent and not wear all of the dew.
My stoves is not working properly, it was dismantled and still would not work properly.
On the second traverse above the farm house. Bugger the cloud, though it too had its surrealness.
Nine people lost their lives in this incident.
El centro, Celendín
The road under construction out of Celendín was atrocious, though passable
Downtown Encañada, from here the ride to Cajamarca is a pleasure
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A wasp heading into the unknown
Really interesting construction technique, all the resources are on site.
The rocks in the walls allow for each level to be constructed, the brown clay is coming from the hole.
The nights camp, a good opportunity to dry the tent.
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