Mountain Zebra, amazing seeing these animals amongst desert and rocks.
Sossusvlei
On the road to Aussenkher
30/11/2015 Swakopmund to waterhole camp
D85, T5, Av16.53, Max45, 48,254, 12404 (85 km around Swakop)
South Westerly, 35+ degrees.
I finally got away about 1000. Brett took Cal and Ben to the bus to Joburg, which made it easy with the bike boxes in his pickup.
Cal has given me his two wheels which have Sun Rhinolite 36 hole rims. Hopefully there will be no more spoke problems. I also have his front Surly rack with the carrier.
I had also been to the dentist in Swakop, a filling was repaired at the hospital and antibiotics prescribed by another private dentist Willie knew. One of my rear teeth was infected.
The antibiotic fixed it fast. I will carry this in future, as the toothache was very painful from the pressure exerted on it whilst eating so much meat.
It was hard saying goodbye to the guys, we had such a wonderful 5mths together on the road from Kenya. A time none of us will ever forget.
I left with about 6l of water. The bike weighed 50kg on the back wheel and 30 on the front when put on Ritas scales.
Our time with them was such a great way to finish the trip. They were unbelievably hospitable. Cal cooked up a pepper chicken dish on our last night. Leon from the Tug restaurant joined us.
As usual the dish was a hit.
On the road there was 60km of asphalt out to the turnoff to the Uranium mine. This was easy riding. It was a true desert landscape. As soon as I left Swakop, the Namib desert began.
The whitish gravel road was highly reflective, bouncing the sunlight back at me and burning my face and arms.
By now, I was running low on water and had to ask every motorist for water. Scholl and Renee were heading out to their farm for the weekend. They asked me if I wanted to join them. Their offer was politely turned down.
They gave me enough water for the night. They also said on their return on Sunday they would give me more water if they saw me on the road.
Most of the other four vehicles seen only had small amounts of water as expected.
Most were German tourists in hire cars.
Near 1700, an outcrop of round red rocks was seen on my left. Upon investigation, this was a great place to camp down by a damp sand low area. There were animal tracks everywhere in this damp sand. I set up camp at the edge of this area.
It was back to the pasta meals again.
It is much easier cooking for just one. I had with me enough tomatoes and onions for 3 night meals and eight bread rolls.
It was hot until the sun went down, I was happy to see it disappear behind the horizon about 1700hrs.
I was told the only animals out here are, oryx, zebra, jackal and other antelope, so had no discomfort about camping on this frequented area.
The animals left very defined well used tracks through the desert.
It was so nice to be alone again, this was quite a special place in all this dryness to be on my first night since Ben and cal left.
After the sun went down it cooled off very quickly.
31/10/2015 Desert camp to thorny tree camp
D77, T5.5, Av13.25, Max40, 48323, 12481
Foggy morning, very hot day, strong sou westers
Feeling the inside of the tent there was a lot of condensation. Looking outside it was quite amazing, the whole area was shrouded in the life giving fog of the Namib desert.
By 0730 it had begun to lift. The tent dried off quickly. I went for a walk over the next rocky outcrop across the sand area. Animals had been here last night, judging by the fresh footprints.
Over the ridge was a riverbed. Here was one little remnant of water. It was incredibly salty.
Back at the camp, the tent was dry. I was on the road by 0800 .
Another 35km saw me cross the cattle grid and leave the Namib- Naukluft NP.
There were no dwellings in this distance. People were asked for water whenever they passed. Everyone stopped and gave me some.
Once out of the park I found a shady tree and had some bread rolls and sardines.
Last night I had just enough water to cook and drink tea. Four cups of tea were enjoyed. It is a very important part of rehydrating after the day.
Ostriches were seen in the distance as was a squirrel hurriedly crossing the road.
The heat was unbelievable, my arms and face were getting badly burnt. Last night and this morning I had bad cramps in my thighs.
I put this down to the acids and preservatives in the wine I had drunk over the last 2 weeks.
The pain had me crying out as it locked up my legs.
The road was still very flat but always gently climbing. Near the end of the day a gel was taken and some bread enjoyed, the last of it.
My camp was just after D1950. Each property boundary is marked by a cattle grid on the road. The one I crossed near the end of the day entered a property with no road fences it was perfect for camping.
I had collected water off six vehicles. The last was a friendly German couple who gave me 5L. He was over here until January doing his PhD on German history here in Namibia,
I was worn out by the time a place to find a camp was spotted. I rode some 400m off the road into an area of low bushes. These were treacherous. Their branches were covered in hook like thorns. Once a walk around to find a campsite was completed. It took another 20 minutes to cut small branches away to get access. It was a great campsite very private and sheltered.
The ground was firm sand.
My arms and legs were scratched from all the thorns. I had ample water for the night, even enough to have a swab down with my handlebar towel.
1/11/2015 Thorny camp to Hillside camp
D45, T4.3, Av9.9, max51, 48368 12,526
Very hot and windy.
I was awake very early knowing that the Bosua pass was near. People had told me about the steepness of this section.
Knowing this, I was on the road by 0730. I had enough water to keep me going till the heat set in but not too much as to weigh me down.
The road was now undulating hills in more treed country. A local family was encountered walking along the road.
Their young boy was sweating a lot. I stopped and gave him a small amount of water in one of the many bottles I had collected over the last couple of days.
He was very happy. Within about 20km, I came to the foot of the Bosua Pass. It was a formidable sight in the distance with the steepest part paved so vehicles could get traction.
The bottom section was unpaved. Here the bike was pushed up the steepest section. In addition, a bit further as it was just a fast to push as ride. It was a welcome change.
I was stopping every 100m to catch my breath and have a brief rest. The paved section was even steeper. Had it not been paved I don’t think my shoes would even have got traction. Once up here I stopped at the lookout. The sea cloud could be seen on the far horizon. Interestingly the river ran for 184 days in the downpour of 2010-11 summer.
Once past here the rolling hills just continued, it was up and straight down. I stopped at some cattle yards in a valley at km 32 here water was collected from a bore tank. I also boiled up three hot drinks, coffee and tea.
A few cars passed. Then a Landcruiser came through it was Scholl and Renee who had offered to have me on their farm for the weekend they were on their way back to Swakop. They stopped when they saw me under the tree.
They had cold coke and sandwiches with meat for me. This was unreal. They also had cold water.
We talked for awhile. They were saviours. In their trailer was a thorny bush. On asking it was found that out here they use these bushes as xmas trees.
There are no trees in Swakop, Renee said the long thorns are great for hanging decorations.
The riding continued to be up and down. I was happy I had a full load of water
Riding on some Kudu were seen in a stockyard, it had high railing fences. They saw me and cleared the 7ft high enclosure with much ease.
I got to a great elevated area that had some 2G signal. I inspected the site and found a good camp with views. Another car stopped. We talked for awhile The woman worked for an offshore diamond dredging company, Debmarine, it was very interesting how they extracted the diamonds from the ocean floor that had been washed down rivers over millions of years.
I set up camp and ate Renees sandwhiches, they sufficed for dinner. My body really reacted to the processed meat. I felt a bit sickly afterward.
This shows me just how bad processed food is if you don’t eat it regularly.
It was still blowing on the site. The people had given me Billtong and a hot coke. The coke could wait till the morning when it will be colder.
Willy rand up for a chat.
A local on horseback came past in the dark he could not speak English we talked for awhile if you can call it that.
There were cattle and warthogs seen near my camp.
There are leopards all through this country but they are very shy. The kudu sometimes get rabies and should not be approached as they came become crazed and dangerous.
It had been another physically challenging day here on the C28. The hardest road I have ridden in Africa and there is still more to go.
2/11/2015 Hillside camp to 5km past Aud farm
D59, T5.3, Av10.53, max46, 48,428 12,585
Very hot and windy.
It was very fresh and windy in the morning, I wore my beany and sweat shirt.
There were yards and water at 5km. I did not need water so kept going. Striking a balance between water needs and weight are important. There is no point carrying water unnecessarily.
There were animal tracks all over the road where they had crossed during the night. I am getting to know the patterns.
A tank in a gully also had water at 15km.
The temperature was only 20 degrees with the wind chill colder. I soon just ran out of steam and had to stop. A farmer gave me some water.
I stopped and had one of my back Country food packs. I have carried these for the whole time and eaten them only when their use by date was nearing. Today was the first time they were used in an emergency situation. I recommend this NZ product. The Lamb, veges and mashed potato was very nice.
At km 28 today, the hills finally eased up. The road ahead for kilometres could be seen through the scattered trees in the huge landscape.
At km 57, there was another farm where water could be obtained.
By 1700 I was totally wornout and stopped at the Aud farm for water. Here all my containers were filled I would camp as soon as a spot could be found.
Five km from the farm in the next valley I found a low spot below the road. The land was all fenced though the road reserve offered some space to camp among the few trees.
A great wind free spot was found amongst some dry grass in a sandy watercourse. In my haste to have a hot drink I nearly started a grass fire with the stove. Some of my precious water was used to put it out. It was potentially a very hazardous situation.
It was nice to relax out of the wind. An unreal pasta was cooked. After which a cup of tea was enjoyed on my seat just watching the starry sky.
For me it was a very special moment here for five or ten minutes.
I truly was free here under the Namibian sky, and it felt so good.
3/11/2015 5km past Aud farm to Wofly and Claudias farm
D36, T3.3, Av10, max38, 48,464 12,621
Mild with strong head winds.
I had a great sleep and was on the road early.
There was no dew so the tent was dry. I was looking forward to getting onto the asphalt up ahead, some 40km away.
This road had quartz stones all over it and many loose sandy sections it really was hard riding once up the Bosua Pass.
I crossed a creek bed bridge and spent time inspecting an old German fort made of the shale on a hill. It was a halfway point for soldiers. There were rifle placements in the walls where those inside could defend any attackers.
It had a commanding view of the surrounding landscape. Not far on was a huge derelict old German style house. An inspection of this was made. It was a massive construction. I wondered what went wrong here.
Firstly, a dream had been realised then was it love, money, betrayal, health or stupidity or the lack of enthusiasm that saw it abandoned.
It must have been exciting times out here in this landscape in such a huge house of grandeur. There was even an old fountain in the main living room .
Another building that was abandoned was passed further on.
I later found out it is called the ghost house.
I came upon a local village, Baumargarts Brunn, in a creek bed, there were tin shacks scattered about. Riding in here no one could be seen. Anyway, on the way out a guy yelled to me.
I told hime I needed water, he gave me some and his wife was cooking good old Mendases. I hadn’t had one in a month or more. I offered to give her some money and ate four of them.
Then what a thrill up in the distance a black strip could be seen.
I was about to kiss it when I reached the asphalt. This had been an unbelievably enduring 5 days here on the C28.
A house could be seen in the distance.
Though only 30km from Windhoeck. It was decided to stop here for water and camp down the road and get into town mid morning tomorrow.
I rode up the drive and was greeted by a man then a younger guy came over to chat .His name was Yneys.
We started chatting about things then his mum Claudia came out. She was introduced and asked if I would like to stay the night.
She showed me to my own little guest house and I showered and shaved. This felt so fantastic after 5 days of dust, wind and dirt all mixed with sweat. We had lovely pasta lunch before going over in their fire truck to help a family across the way that had afire start on the property from sparks while metal was being ground.
Fifty acres was burnt in less than an hour. It was under control by the time we got there.
Back at the farm Yenys took me for a tour in his sawn off Nissan Patrol. We saw Kudu, Oryx, Warthog., Ostriches, Sprinbbok and cattle of course.
It was great to learn things about these animals, the weather and landscape all from a farmer.
That evening we ate another lovely meal of cold smoked oryx and salami with bread.
Wolfy and his family were so hospitable, they were so easy to get along with. We really enjoyed each others company.
They had lots of pets, dogs, cats and birds along with goats and chooks. It was a lovely family atmosphere in fantastic surroundings overlooking the surrounding landscape. They had a drilling business and the property was a conservancy, so the animals were quiet.
4/11/2015 Wofly and Claudias farm to Paradise Gardens guest house
D27, T1, Av12.26, max57, 48,491 12,648
Head winds.
This morning Wolfy asked me if I wanted to come to a property with them to do some water divining for the owner.
The owner John and a geologist were introduced to me. We all headed off. I went with John. A very enthusiastic likeable guy a bit older than me and just as fit.
We chatted all the way to his property. On arrival at the site, Wolfies rig was already there halfway into a bore hole.
We spent a few hours divining and using electronic gear looking for a good water source for the soon to be subdivided rural land.
People are wanting lifestyle blocks away from the city .
It was a great morning learning about the landscape out here. I finally got to see a Camel Thorn tree that is the rolls Royce of Braai wood out here.
There were some very big specimens on the property. It is a species of Acacia.
Back at the farm, we had a great lunch the Claudia had prepared. They had a really comfortable homestead that I felt totally at ease in. A was a real farm family atmosphere with them. I finally got away about 1400 and rode the easy 27km into Windhoek. On the way a shanty town was passed, this was a collection of corrugated iron huts. There was a distinct smell as I passed the community. I later read in the paper these places are neither sewered or have reticulated water. Just over the hill were plush normal renedered new dwellings. I got to the paradise gardens and met Christina who owned the guesthouse.
Here I slept up by the pool in my tent the first night. I recommend this guesthouse, it felt safe and had all facilities. Christina was easy to get along with.
On the Friday I finally picked up my new debit card at Renees business Ramppoint. He and I spent the morning going over the map for my future route and then he took me to all the bike shops in town. A new chain was bought from Mannies.
A trip out to the Grove Mall was made in the afternoon. This is another huge mall well before its time. A hop here called Dis Chem had things that I needed. I like to use Parchouli oil on my neck warmer, it smells better than sweat!
It rained in the afternoon so I slept in a dorm for the night.
The next day bike maintenance was done and a trip made to bush Whackers camp store. This was the best one I had seen. My dry bag used on the back of the bike was replaced and a new tiny foldable backpack was bought. My old one was dsmaged during the road incident in Cairo.
In the afternoon, I rode across to Johns and Esters, in Ausblick. They had a beautiful home with great views. It was right near the huge presidential house that no one lives in. We sat around the pool for drinks then dined on a traditional Afrikaans dinner. The Afrikaners always say a grace and hold hands before eating. The dinner was something else. We enjoyed baby hake and most interesting and enjoyingly, Mountain Zebra steaks, they were delicious.
The next day John and I visited more bike shops as my chain from Mannies did not mesh with my cassette. I finally found the Sram chain that I use.
It had been such a great time here also. John, 65 was a super fit guy and runs marathons and rides bikes. We were both interested in each others diets.
We enjoyed each others company for the time we had together.
I finally left his place at 1500 in the afternoon.
7/11/2015 Windhoek to a camp on the D1426
D38, T3, Av11.54, max57, 48,530 12,686
Fine and mild
On leaving Johns house, some 4km on I stopped and had a great salad and pork meal at the restaurant in the supermarket at Hamutenya Wanehepo Ndadi st.
Here I also bought water to get some containers. Yesterday with John, I had bought onions and tomatoes plus lots of bread and half a dozen eggs to boil.
Leaving town and taking the C26, it turned to gravel after about 20km.
From here it was a steady climb. I was glad that the meal had been eaten. There were other mountain bike riders returning to town.
The fat bikes are popular here and are used in the deserts.
I met a guy on the road training so we rode together till the end of the asphalt.
Further on at about 1800hrs a young couple were on the side of the road, I asked them for some water. They said they had none but had a beer.
We chatted for 20 minutes over a stubby. He had just bought a new Landcruiser tray back.
Interestingly it was a V6 petrol. He said they were better in the dunes.
From here, I could not find a suitable campsite and the sun was nearly down.
Seeing a side road, I took this and found a great campsite, not before startling some Kudu on the roadside. They are large antelope.
Dinner was just hot chocolate and four bread rolls with boiled eggs and peanut butter.
The campsite was quiet and had nice views, the trees were not thorny, which made life easy.
It had a nice slope, sleep came very easy.
8/11/2015 Camp on the D1426 Isabis farm
D103, T7, Av14.63, max50, 48,633 12,789
Fine and hot, sou wester blowing
The camp had been a great secure spot, this led me to have a sleep in, till 0700 anyway.
I was back on the C26 by 0830. The terrain was still rolling hills but nothing extreme. Many mountain bike cyclists were passed on the way. Again, training for the Desert Dash. This is the road they take. Some stopped to talk most were in training mode.
As I progressed further westward, the vegetation got smaller and more sparse. Kudu were seen on the odd occasion.
I got to the turnoff and headed in a more southerly direction.
I stopped to get water from the grader driver crew. They were having the day off.
It was slowly getting hotter though the road was in good condition and flat in places.
Soon the heat was really setting in, a large shady Camel Thorn tree near the roadside in a low area was chosen to eat 4 cups of tea and chocolate and have bread.
Here I laid out my food cloth and had a sleep for an hour or more.
Riding on I stopped a vehicle for more water. It was a van full of people from Botswana, they kindly gave me a bottle of icy cold water.
I transferred this into my drink bottles so it would not warm up to quick.
Good progress was being made and I was almost fully hydrated. By now, it was 1600hrs and I needed water for the night. Another vehicle was flagged. They were a family who had been camping for the weekend and had a camper. They loaded me with 7 litres from the camper tank.
Coming to my turnoff onto the D1265, I stopped to ask a road crew if this was the correct way to Solitaire, it was. They were camping on the roads edge and were clearing vegetation.
This road was very sandy in patches and walking for short periods was required.
It was so good to no longer have spoke problems and the front Surly rack that cal gave works great. It gives the front panniers full support and the rack is perfect for carrying water.
Riding along this road there was a man in the middle of nowhere walking at 1800. I stopped to talk he was walking 10km to a farm for work. I gave him a cup of water.
Though this sounds little, every drop I had was needed.
We said goodbye. This worried me a bit, as he would see where I left the road to camp.
I opened a gate into one paddock and went in, I covered my tracks afterward, a bit useless, as my foot prints were everywhere. I assumed these guys were master trackers.
I decided against this spot as I was on someone’s property and rode back out. The idea would be to ride further than 10km and find a camp.
The road reserve was narrow with few trees offering camping privacy.
On dark, I came to a 4x4 track. This unexpectedly led me to a farm .
Here I found Adele who was feeding her horses.
I asked if they had a spot where I could camp. She introduced me to Joachim her husband. They said I could use their guest accommodation.
It was a great self contained flat with hot water and shower. It was so nice to be cleaned up and enjoy a great pasta Adele had prepared.
The next day we spent time looking at the Eucalypts around their homestead. Joachims grandfather planted them.
They invited me to spend another night with them.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and repairing a puncture.
It was so relaxing around the homestead. Adele showed me through the house they are in the process of renovating.
The people of Namibia have been so hospitable. Joachim and I looking at my route and he has given me the names of friends to get in touch with if necessary. In the afternoon, I grafted a lemon tree for Adele.
Joachim and I also went for a drive out on the farm to guest accommodation for astrologers they are setting up.
They said poaching of animals is a real problem here and a group of farmers has been formed to do patrols on certain nights. People shoot Oryx and Kudu and then sell the meat in town.
10/11/2015 Joachim and Adeles place farm to Carolines farm
D75, T4.4, Av16.07, max47, 48,707 12,864
Fine and hot, calm
Joachim and Adela had to go to town early. We all had a quick breakfast together and they left for Windhoek.
Before I left half an hour later, I topped up with their good bore water.
Some 40km into the ride, my rear tyre started slipping on the rim and consequently tore the valve off.
Luckily I had a new can of glue Ben had given me. This was repaired and the old tyre glued to the rim. This tyre was new in Cairo.
I stopped at the pass turnoff and got water from a farm house. The owner had two vicious Dobermans near tearing the gate down to get at me,. He put them in the house.
Some of these farms are growing prickly pear, which they often feed to stock.
I got to the turnoff at Lepel and sat down behind a small shed and had 4 cups of tea. There was a huge storm brewing out over Windhoek way. However, it was noisy but not wet. A ute passed by and I recognised Caroline whom I had met at Adeles farm. She asked me to come and stay on her property for the night. Once there. I said I would cook my pasta for her. Vegetables had been with me since Windhoek. Her property was another oasis in the desert. She had geese, sheep, and many other animals around the house. Her favourites were the four Border Collies.
I had my own quarters away from the main house. We ate and talked too late into the evening. The property is all powered by solar power. A dream of mine is to have a house off the grid.
11/11/2015 Carolines farm to Solitaire
D64, T4.5, Av13.27, max35, 48,771 12,928
Head winds after the pass
Caroline had the conservation guys out to do a Mountain Zebra count on her property.
I got away about 0800, some 16km from her place I stopped in at her husbands farm, Jahn who was a master vegetable and fruit grower. We chatted for an hour. He kindly gave me some oranges and a lovely bottle of frozen orange pulp.
This was all thawed and drunk within 20km. The day was that hot.
The day was a relatively easy ride. The Remhoogte Pass was especially scenic with eagles soaring in the thermals above the high rock faces. This was mountain zebra country. Except they were over the back on faces that had feed. Last night at Carolines I ate smoked zebra before dinner.
Below the pass was even a pool of water on the road from a subterranean creek that had surfaced. This was a real surprise.
The road was now deteriorating with corrugations and loose gravel. I nearly came off on a number of occasions.
I soon got to the turnoff to Solitaire, this meant heading north into a fierce head wind. It was like this for 14km.
I stopped at the only gas station store in Solitaire and here drank lots of fluids.
I booked a nights camping at the campsite.
Whilst in reception I met this woman, who later came up to me and asked if I wanted a room. They had a booking mix up. She said I could have the room they did not need.
This was so kind of them. Here I had a luxury room with air conditioning and all the mod cons.
That night I joined some Swedish people for a huge buffet. They were great company. After I joined Louise and her friends for a drink.
Then retreated to my little bit of luxury for the night.
12/11/2015 Solitaire to Sesriem
D87, T5.3, Av15.69, max35, 48,858 13,015
Heads winds into Sesriem
40 degrees plus.
I was up early and went into see the girls. I gave them water to give to me as they passed. They had a torn tyre and had to wait for someone to bring a replacement from the rental company.
The gravel road was in excellent condition and the journey was generally downhill.
The wind was minimal. Riding was easy. I stopped for an icy water at a lodge on the way.
I stopped at the gates of a lodge in the shade. The guard from across at the other gates came over. The first thing he did was put his hand out in front of me and opened and closed his fingers gesturing he wanted some of the orange I was eating. He said gimme gimme. I looked at him and said what about saying please. This was an unbelievably rude gesture. I didn’t care if he was black or whatever race, I would have said this to anyone after this kind of greeting.
I rode on and continued gently losing altitude.
I soon got to the turnoff to Sesriem. Here I was confronted with a full on westerly. My bike thermometer reading 40 degrees. At least the wind was a little cool. Though, there were times when it blew burning hot.
I stopped at a shady little roadside shelter and had a few cups of tea, even though it was only 4km into the village. I just needed to rest.
Once in town I went to the only shop gas station and bought a few drinks. A young German guy, Mark turned up on a fat bike. He had ridden from Cape Town. He was a minimilast gear type. A great enthusiastic guy. Though, all his gear was less than the weight of one of my rear panniers. We talked for an hour or so. Then booked a campsite at the NP campground. This cost 18 plus 8 Nam dollars, the 8 being for the park entrance.
I camped next to a Swiss couple who were also riding south to Cape Town.
Dinner was a burger in the restaurant here in the sandy wildness.
I spoke with a young German girl Sophie who said her and her partner could take me to the dunes in the park in the morning at 0520 when the gates opened.
I got all my gear ready for the early start before going to bed.
Sossusvlei
The next day I was up at 0430, as Sophie and Christian were going to pick me up at 0515. I had bought bread for the day.
We headed off out to Dune 45 to watch the sunrise. This dune is about 250m high. It was hard work climbing to the top. On walking up, one can see just how unfit the average person is. Some people were really struggling. Once at the high point the colours were amazing as the sun rose. We spent a few hours here. Then headed out to the dead valley. Even though the sun saw high in the sky the colours were surreal.
We came back to camp and had a swim and I had a much needed sleep.
In the evening we wnt back to Dune 45 to watch the sunset. It was blowing a gale. Three guys were climbing the dune in the hope of paragliding from it. However the wind was too strong for this persuit. Sand was blowing everywhere and jammed up my faithful old camera.
A few photos were taken. We headed back to the desert camp and had pasta in the restaurant. It had been an enjoyable time with Sophie and Christian for the day.
14/11/2015 Sesriem to Namib Rand park
D82, T7.13, Av11.39, max25, 48,940 13,097
Hot , gentle winds
Most other people were moving around the park at 0430 getting ready to head to Sossusvlei. I got up a little later and slowly packed being sure to get the sand out of everything. The wind blows lightly from the east in the morning before turning to the west in the afternoons and then abates after dark. This is the best time.
I was on the road by 0830 having bought a few supplies at the gas station.
The scenery was dramatic to say the least. Huge rocky plains bounded by rocky hills and outcrops.
The road was sandy in places and very corrugated. I stopped at a ballooning place to ask if I could buy some tomatoes for my pasta. They were great and gave me two. The owner told me they can’t land the balloons in the dunes as they are unable to retrieve them .
Oryx and Springbok were a common sight, they were very shy however.
A Swiss couple from Worb, which I am familiar with stopped and gave me a cold coke and water.
Lunch was had in the only shade I could find which was the stone wall of an entrance to a lodge .Even then this was only 300mm of reprieve from the sun.
The whole landscape was now rock strewn. Oryx were feeding among the rocks.
I was now in this huge open flat valley with hills on both sides. On the left in the middle of it was the wardens house for the Namib Rand nature reserve.
Riding in the gate the house seemed close but it was 2km away. Such is the size of the landscape here.
Quinton the warden gave me water, then said I could stay with his staff 10km up the road.
I was very worn out by now but thought this was a good idea and headed off. The road just kept going. However, as the sun went down the colours got better and better. A packet of biscuits was eaten just to keep going.
Finally, at 1900 I arrived at the house. The guys came to greet me. They said Quinton had phoned them.
I set the tent up under the balcony roof of the house. A pasta was cooked and some shared with the guys around the fire.
They even had hot water and a great shower.
Another oasis in the desert.
15/11/2015 Namib Rand park to Betta
D65, T4.21, Av14.79, max46, 49,005 13,162
Easy ride, some soft patches
Last night the sound of Mountain Zebra at the nearby trough woke me up. The guys said they come down every evening to drink the water.
I packed slowly and was on the road by 0800. The ride was up for a short while then a nice roll down hill. I stopped by a tree to do something on my phone. Under the tree was the head and dry gut of a springbok. A leopard must had killed and dragged the carcass here to feed on it.
Further on in the still huge landscape was a burnt out car. This was in stark contrast to the landscape.
The road was now quite flat but was variable in its surface. Sometimes hard and others soft. The bike was even walked for a short while.
On a straight stretch about 1000hrs, my rear tyre deflated rapidly. On inspection there was a small rip in the tube. I was in the middle of nowhere with no shade. Back 3km the tracks of the Swiss riders went into a house where they must have camped the night.
It took 2 hours to sort out this problem,. The patches would not seal this rip. In the end, I put a new tube on.
I have learnt a lesson here. The old tyre should have been replaced in Windhoek.
I was trying to squeeze another few km from it. Once on the road some 8km from Betta it went down again. It was quickly repaired though again the hole was a rip.
It was hoped it would hold. A guy stopped and gave me plenty of water.
Most of which was drank on the spot.
On arrival in Betta, just a farm and service station. I booked a camp. Over at the house I spoke with Renee the owner. She kindly gave me some lovely watermelon, papaya and fresh figs from her garden.
All the properties have solar power. In this case they had a wind generator as well.
They are hoping for rain soon, she said the east wind brings the rain.
I cooked up fried potatoes and climbed in the tent under a shelter.
It was a great camp ground with good shade trees and some stone wall protection from the wind and sand .
There was only one other group of campers who spent the night.
This tyre is going to have to be replaced. From here, I need to get a lift back to Windhoek to get a new tyre and tube. It will be a good opportunity to get some supplies also.
16,17,18,19/11/2015 Betta to Windhoek, hitchhiking and back
After the lucky arrival at Betta, it was decided that the only thing to do was go back to Windhoek to buy a new rear tyre and tubes. Renee from the campground said she would look after the bike for a couple of days.
I met a local farmer Bernd at the cafe and he said he was going up to Windhoek.
He would pick me up mid morning. It was a slow but enjoying trip with Bernd we talked much of the way and I had a great sleep in the back of his defender. We were towing a trailer with a moto on the back.
The route we took was through Maltahohe, then up to Mariental and onto Rehoboth and north to Windhoek. Bernd dropped me off at the Grove shopping centre on this south side of town. New riding shorts were bought as my others got ripped.
I then headed back to to Paradise Gardens backpackers where I had stayed previously. Christina had room for me.
The next day a tyre was bought at Cymott. Here some tubes and puncture repair patches were also bought.
I found this shop had the best selection of gear touring cyclists may need. Most other shops are all geared up for mountain bike riding and have all equipment in wheel sizes 28,29 inches as the fashion in mountain bikes seems to be now. Though Mannie was a help.
I also stocked up on groceries. Early in the morning I caught a taxi out to the road block at the southern end of town. Here a ride was obtained to Reheboth, then another to Meriental.
I had to wait at the turnoff here for two and a half hours in the sun. The only shade was that from the road sign. This soon disappeared as the sun got hight in the sky. Luckily some French tourists in a four wheel drive picked me up and took me to Maltahohe. Here I spent a couple of hours hanging around the new supermarket and the gas station. Finally a lift was obtained from a farmer who lived 20km before Betta. He kindly took me all the way to Betta.
Once back here, I got the bike from the shed and unpacked and fitted the new tyre. It was great to have the peace of mind that no problems would occur again. The old tyre slipped on the rim was a real problem. Glue had to be used to stop it from moving. Every time a puncture was repaired it needed gluing again. That evening a guy Michiel came over for a chat. He was a real character, a travelling farmer as he described himself. We got on well. I told him of my plans to do the D707.
He said he would take some of my gear down to Aus for me. He was also travelling the D707 and staying at lodges.
I cooked up a great pasta for the evening and got into bed and promptly fell asleep.
It had been a huge 3 days.
20/11/2015 Betta to a roadside camp D707
D79, T7.16, Av10.86, max30, 49,084 13,241
Everything from firm gravel, corrugations to deep red sand walking
Michiel came over for an early chat. My gear was removed from my panniers and put in a big China bag to give to Michiel. All I was taking was food and my tent with my riding clothes and a warm set of clothing and my raincoat.
At about 0900 I got away. It was a slight uphill climb on the gravel road to the turnoff to the D707 .
This road is often described as the most scenic desert road in Namibia.
Given this, I felt I had to ride it.
It was known, there would be deep sand along its 123km length. I had plenty of water and food. It felt unreal to be riding such a light bike.
The weight of the gear left with Michiel was a bit scary. There was maybe 30kg.
At the turnoff I stopped to take a photo and then proceeded, a farm was on the corner.
Some 2km up the road, I topped up with water from a bore tank in some stockyards.
I felt confident taking this route now my tyres were both new and not slipping on the rims. The front Surly rack Cal gave me is so good for carrying 2 bottles of water.
I stopped about 1300 and had a meal under a shady tree. One has to be careful not to stop under trees with too many thorns, though most do. Here I had sardines and bread with a couple of cups of chocolate.
Whilst sheltering here from the wind a vehicle came past and offered me some water. The drivers were from Switzerland. They are often the ones that stop to offer water.
I was making good progress when up ahead there was red sand looming. Once I got to this, it was just walking and pushing. This went on for two hours at least.
By now it was getting late in the day and the sun was getting lower. Consequently the landscape colours were becoming more dramatic.
This made the pushing easier. I took my sandals off, thats how deep the sand was.
Had the bike been fully loaded, the energy required to do this would have been huge. I really wonder if I could have made it. I get a twinge in my lower back when pushing.
With the weight I was carrying it was possible to make reasonable time. My speed was about 4km/hr. With rests every 50m or so.
I stopped to take photos of the now emotion producing beauty of the scenery.
The colours were breath taking.
After some time I got out of the sand, however the road surface was still very soft. I came to a rock formation on my left. It offered no opportunity for camping so I rode on. The country was still fenced. Any lodges passed were too far in off the road to be practical to visit.
Riding 10-15 km off the road and uphill just to have to py for accommodation was not an option.
The road slowly went downhill. By now, it was getting dark.
I found some low bushes on the roadside by the fence. This was the only place worth camping. I found I had forgotten to bring my tent pegs.
I had to hunt for rocks to secure the tent to the ground with my stretch straps and cargo nets that were with me.
I put some music on my speaker and just revelled in the beauty and solitude of this place. It was a very emotional time for me .
The only other time this happened to this extent was high in the Andes above the village of Limon above Balsas way down in the canyon. Here, the emotion was accompanied by an epiphany. Which still keeps me enthusiastic and enriched by this journey today, three and a half years later.
The back of the tent was put into the wind. As the small particles of sand blew about, they eddied over the tent and found their way inside. The wind was still blowing strong. I had my chair with me of course. This was a saviour to be able to sit down. I had to put on all my warm gear, longs and raincoat included.
Dinner was a back Country dehy food pack and a cup of tea. I had to get inside the tent and just get out of the wind.
Before going to bed at 2000hrs a look up at the crystal clear sky revealed the milky way almost bridging its vastness. The sky was so clear.
On climbing in my sleeping bag to keep warm, I was happy to have got through the sand today. Tomorrow would be a fresh start. I took my large Opinel to bed.
I was aware of the hyena out here that can be very menacing to solo campers. Sleep came almost immediately
21/11/2015 Roadside camp D707 to Sonja and Wilhelms farmD707
D59, T6.3, Av8.92, max20, 49,143 13,300
Everything from firm gravel, corrugations to loose sand and walking
The morning was another sight to behold. It was extremely cold until the sun came up about. The scenery was stunning in the early morning light. What made this desert so unique are the hills and rock formations within it. It is not just a vast flatness like so many other environments similar.
I got on the road by 0730, the road deteriorated again into gravelly sand that was just too soft to ride.
I spent most of the morning pushing. There were some lodges along the way but the distances into them were great. Cars could be seen coming from one they were tiny against the hills behind.
Yesterday only 5 vehicles had passed me. A car came up behind me and low and behold, it was Michiel, he had spent the night at the Namib lodge. We gave each other a big hug.
He gave me water and we chatted for a while and said we would catch up in Aus.
I continued a mix of riding and pushing.
I stopped at 100 to eat, that much energy was being used. A Swiss couple stopped and gave me water and an apple which was so good .
I found the only bush to stop behind for lunch. I had to climb under a fence to get in the lee of it.
The day was now very hot and the wind howling. Sand again found its way into everything.
The scenery was unreal, the mountain valleys were full of sand in ll shades of brown, like glaciers flowing down to the valley floors in which I was riding.
At times the road ahead could be seen for miles. Some frightened Oryx were seen.
At least I was going down now. The road improved somewhat. There were other bike tracks on the road. Obviously, those of someone on an unloaded bike they were to straight and in places quite soft.
Another German couple stopped to give me water.
By now, the wind was getting stronger. I stopped and ate the last of my bread with peanut butter. This had been a saviour.
All of a sudden, the road improved, it was constructed of imported road base.
It was very white and glary. Way up ahead a building could be made out. They gave me strength. There was no way I could camp out un protected in this fierce wind.
About 1800 I reached the farmhouse in the lee of a hill range. Here I rode in and introduced myself. Wilhelm and Sonja had me in for a cup of tea and homemade biscuits. I ended up having two pots of black tea.
I asked if I could set up my tent somewhere, they said I could use their caravan. They also invited me to eat with them. Sonja made a lovely, oryx stew and some vegetables. I got over to the caravan and just thought how incredibly lucky I was to be here in this shelter from the storm.
Sonja was a keen gardener and had a great desert garden. She also had aquiver tree garden that looked surreal in the red end of day colours.
Wilhelm showed me a photo of three hyenas they shot recently that were hanging around cows to eat the young as they were being born. They told me of a story about a Swiss rider who arrived and could not talk as he had been yelling at one that would not leave his camp for a whole night.
I was lucky not to have been harassed last night.
By the time I got to sleep the wind was howling to the point where it was shaking the caravan.
22/11/2015 Sonja and Wilhelms farm D707 to Aus
D71, T4, Av17.45, max58, 49,213 13,371
Howling nor easter blew me to Aus
Early in the morning it was still blowing a gale. I went over to the house and had my maize meal and coffee. I said goodbye and was on the road by 0830. Sonja had kindly made me bread sandwiches with her delicious homemade bread and butter. I took these.
Heading east on the D707, the wind was so strong from the north I had to walk during some gusts, it was fierce.
Within 10km I turned left onto the C13, horay, I had the strongest of tail winds being blown along the good gravel road at nearly 60km in places.
I was ecstatic, the D707 had been ridden. It was all worth it. For me it was definitely the most spectacular scenery so far in Namibia. I felt I had achieved something.
The C13 was straight as far as the eye could see.
A stop was made at the bottom of the huge valley. The bread was unreal with tomatoes.
All morning it was a slow climb.
Some local boys were seen riding bareback, they were looking for wild horses of which there are many out here in places.
Up ahead in the distance I could see tha blackness of asphalt. Here I turned right and was blown into Aus.
Michiel was at the gas station, it was great to see him.
He had booked a luxury room at the rest camp, we shared this together. I felt I deserved this. It was not even too pricey. All my washing was done and my gear he had was packed. We enjoyed a great chicken schnitzhel at the local hotel.
A few people spoke to me at the gas station after having seen me on the D707. A French woman about my age looked at me and in all seriousness said “you must be crazy”.
She really meant it .I said yes, “that’s possible but it is very enjoyable being crazy”.
It was great to be showered and in a huge comfortable bed.
23/11/2015 Aus to Luderitz
D128, T5.5, Av, max63, 49,341 13,499
Downhill slight wind near Luderitz
I was slow gettingup, mosquitos had kept me awake most of the night. Repellent was put on just keep them at bay.
Michiel and I were both up in the middle of the night killing the terrible things.
I finally got away at 0900. It was 125km to Luderitz through the Namib desert. As I left, I was anxious about leaving so late. I may get caught up in the wind .
It was a steady downhill ride for the first 30km. The desert was a creamy openness of nothing except a line of power poles.
By 1230, I had already done 100km,
I may just beat the wind. Though, at km 102 the wind started and the temperature dropped as the cool Atlantic air was buffeting me.
It was a crosswind.
I just kept going knowing that I was capable of beating into strong head winds for 30km anyway.
The coolness made it ok.
There were hills on the way into Luderitz. I got into town again elated about 1430, it was a rapid 128km in five and a half hours. Something of a record for me.
I went straight to immigration and gave them my passport for a one month extension of my visa. This cost 390 Nam dollars, 39 Oz dollars.
Then a ride was made to the Element Riders backpackers, Bernd had told me about this place. Riener there gave me a great single room. The evening was magic there was no wind. I climbed to the top of church hill to take it all in.
Then went to the Casa Bodega for a roast pork dinner.
Luderitz was unusually without wind .I was so pleased the decision was made to come here.
24,25,26,27/11/2015 Luderitz
D59km around Luderitz, 49,399 13,558
Brilliant calm weather
It was going to take 2 days just to get my visa, they had to send it up to Keetmanshoop for processing.
The town had a great feel and the hostal was excellent. I decided just to have a rest here and enjoy this unreal weather. After the big wind storm calmness prevailed.
Infact, for 3 days the weather was almost calm. On the evening I arrived a walk was taken to the top of the church hill to get a feel for the lie of the town.
The first day saw me hitch out to Kolmanskop to the diamond ghost town, the second day a great ride and skinny dip was enjoyed at the totally deserted Agate beach and the last day in fierce wind a ride was taken out to Diaz Point to see the seals, flamingos and the speed channel for kite surfing and windsurfing. Two brilliant buffets were enjoyed at the Barrels bar and two cheaper meals at the Casa Bodega bar.
A beer was enjoyed at the yacht club that has great views of the harbour.
The town has two well stocked supermarkets and supplies were bought. Most days a great afternoon sleep was enjoyed with an afternoon wander about the town.
I met a guy Otto who is going to take me to the Helmeringhausen turnoff, from there I will start riding again. Back tracking is ok sometimes, but back tracking all the way back to Aus in possible head winds and uphill is not a proposition for me.
27/11/2015 Luderitz to culvert camp, B4
D113, T6.4, Av16.8, max35, 49,512 13,671
Light sou westers fine and hot
As arranged, I was up at 0400 and ready for Otto to come and get his ute and head off. He had left it at the hostal for the night.
It was loaded when he arrived. We were on the road by 0515 and at the rest area on the road side past Aus at 0630. It was a quick trip.
We saw the wild horses on the road out grazing early.
It was very cold in the morning when I set off. It was tempting to go on with Otto. He was going all the way Keetmanshoop.
It had been a great break at Luderitz and to get such good weather was just so lucky.
The road was largely uphill in a gentle manner for the first couple of hours then down gently. I stopped at a restaurant in the middle of nowhere, here a homemade pie was eaten and my water topped up.
I had hoped to get a drink at goabeb but it was nothing more than just a group of derelict buildings. Some children on the road told me there was no water here. I kept going feeling still full of energy.
The need for more water arose, The problem with asphalt roads is the traffic moves so fast it is hard to slow people down. A windmill was spotted, there was a name and phone number on the gate I rang the farmer to see if water could be obtained from here. He said it was fine.
My bladder and all bottles were filled with the tasty bore water.
Some distance on I got to a reasonable size culvert under the road. It was well over head height and a great place out of the sun. It was almost air-conditioned with the air flowing through it.
The need to pitch my tent was not necessary until I spotted a big Black Scorpion against the wall seeking shelter from the sun. I flicked it out of the way with my Clic stand. The black species are the dangerous ones.
This was such a good campsite. I was totally worn out and inflated my airbed and promptly fell asleep from 1600 to 1900 hrs. Getting up, a great pasta was prepared.
On going to bed at 2200 some jackals were seen outside on the fence line. I tried to shoo them away but the hung around. Rocks thrown at them were not even a deterrent.
I knew they were not dangerous so was not too concerned. I used my bike to block one end of the culvert and a pile of thorny branches at the other.
Really I was too tired to care it had been a huge day in the heat after 4 days break.
28/11/2015 Culvert camp, B4 to dry river camp past Seeheim C12
D80, T5.4, Av14.3, max45, 49,592 13,751
Light sou westers fine 40+
Up early and well slept, I had a wander outside and found the sun baked carcass of a dead horse near the fencleline, this was attracting the jackals. They were here for Biltong in the evenings!
Once on the road there were a few hills but again generally downhill. By doing so the temperature was getting hotter and hotter.
There was a vehicle parked on the side of the road going up one big climb, a person was standing beside it watching me. We greeted each other on my arrival. It was the farmer who owned the bore. We had a good chat for some time. He said cyclists often stop at his house just near Boageb.
I think he appreciated me giving him a call to ask for the water.
It was getting so hot, soon the landscape took on a canyon like appearance from here there was a long downhill stretch to the turn off to Seeheim on the C12. I rode straight to the hotel in a hollow by the rail track. A large bottle of cool water wad promptly bought.
On arrival there was a welcoming party consisting of an African Grey parrot and a Border Collie, obviously the best of mates.
The parrot was super placid and soon found a roost on my shoulder. The food here was expensive but I bought some. .
It was over 40 degrees. I hung around here till 1600 hours then headed off. The owner told me to take the road by the rail track as it was not back up the hill. Out on the road it was oft but still rideable.
I had hoped to camp in the Lowen riverbed. The hotel owner said you could dig little and find water in the sand.
On arrival there, baboon tracks were spotted everywhere.
I saw them running away, they also had a look out in place. It was decided to ride on. The road was getting in worse condition.
Another small creek bed was crossed, this looked better. Indeed a good campsite as found out of sight of the road. Dodging thorns littering the ground was a big concern on the way in.
It was another incredibly clear starry evening. As usual, a spicy pasta was enjoyed. There were few animal tracks here which always makes me sleep better.
My lower back has been giving me pain ever since sleeping in the back seat of Bernds Defender on the way to Windhoek a week ago. Pushing the bike through stretches of the D707 did not help either.
29/11/2015 Dry river camp past Seeheim C12 to Cañon Roadhouse
D68, T3.4, Av18.14, max41, 49,660 13,819
Light sou westers fine 40+
The morning was calm. I was up early and headed off back towards the road, lugging the bike through the sot sand. Once on the road the scenery was flat but always back dropped by hills and ranges. The vegetation was limited to a few scattered salt type bushes and always surface rocks.
It was an easy downhill ride. Two hire four-wheel drive Hiluxes stopped. It was a Swiss couple and one of the parents in the other vehicle. They offered me water and an apple.
We had a good chat. It is often the Swiss that stop to say hi and ask if water is needed. They lived on Lake Nuchatel where I have spent a small amount of time.
They were great people.
Riding on I came to the turnoff to the Canyon Roadhouse. To my surprise here at the corner was a bottle of cool water and a can of vegetables in brine. The Swiss families had left a note for me. I was a little overwhelmed by this gesture. The canned veges were all I needed for lunch it was such a change. I always carry a loaf of bread and have this with peanut butter if hunger strikes. The wholemeal loaves keep for a few days.
The scenery now was getting very dramatic with large escarpments framing the landscape. I stopped to add a stone to a small cairn on the roadside. I like to do this. I remember the cairn Deirdre and I added some stones to way up near the snow line in the Andes. I wonder if it is still there today.
Up ahead I could see the canyon Roadhouse on the right. Arriving at any place where cold drinks and shelter can be found is such a pleasure. Out on the road even shade cannot be found in many places.
I pulled in here and immediately bought a cold coke with a glass of ice.
I unpacked the bike and got a new battery for the phone.
Inside this large building was a bar and souvenir shop full of curios from a bygone era. There were old cars and all sorts of signs and number plates from around the world.
Whilst sitting down a couple came up to me. Patrick and Rachel around my age were also cyclist. Thouhg at the moment they were travelling in a hired 4x4.
They joined me we spent the afternoon chatting.
They were camping here. Though it was not my plan. It was decided to stop the night. I set up my camp under a cool tree at their camp.
There were oryx and springbok just wandering around the camp. There was also a lovely cool swimming pool. My washing was done. A huge burger was enjoyed for dinner.
The next day the three of us went to visit Fish river canyon and the hot springs of Ai Ais.
The canyon was impressive to say the least. It is second in size to the Grand Canyon.
We spent the morning touring about. We even saw some Hartmann’s mountain Zebras. They looked unreal amongst the rocky hills.
These animals are usually associated with savannah. There were Oryx and Springbok with Ostriches in the landscape as well.
30/11/2015 Cañon Roadhouse to desert camp C37
D22, T1.4, Av12.62, max41, 49,682 13,831
howling westers fine 40+
Another huge burger was enjoyed before leaving about 1400hrs. I got petrol for the stove and headed off after saying goodbye to Patrick and Racheal. We had a great time together for the last two days.
The wind was horrendous out on the road and pretty much a head wind. I only got to near the Canyon Lodge and decided to look for a camp. It was hard to find somewhere out of the wind.
With my full load of water I was just burning up to much energy in the strong winds
Finally, a spot was found among rocky outcrops well off the little used road.
I had plenty of water so all was well. My back was still sore, some Ibuprofen was taken.
The landscape was just like out of a cowboy movie. I half expected to see some cowboys riding across the valley. My camp was right on a well worn animal track.
All hoofed animals which made me feel comfortable.
A dehy food pack was eaten with some soya mince.
It was nice to be camping in the desert again.
01/12/2015 Desert camp C37 to Spa Supermarket, Aussenkher
D108, T7.5, Av14.42, max54, 49,791 13,939
Howling westers fine 40+ with a small sand storm
The tent had been pitched on a slight but perfect slope for a good nights sleep. I was up at 0430 wanting an early start. I knew it was going to be another hot day again. Having done this I was on the road by 0700.
The landscape was as interesting as ever. In the rocky hill country some mountain zebra were seen as well as oryx and springbok and one crazy ostrich that got caught in a fence ascit tried to flee me.
Most animals run when they see cyclists but are more relaxed with vehicles that mostly they don’t associate with danger.
Turning a corner I was confronted by the hugest of open desert valleys, the road went right across it. The grader guys were still working on it. So it was in great condition. When I got to their chuck wagon my water supply was replenished and much was drank on site. At the bottom of the valley, a snack of bread and sardines was enjoyed just sitting in the full sun, there was just no shade.
At the other side of this expanse was the turnoff to Aussenkehr, the D316. Turning put me almost head on into the now strong wind.
This road was taking me deeper into the desert. The landscape was just rock and sand with almost no vegetation. The ranges consisted of contorted seams of rock with some striations of white quartz, it was all very dramatic.
The road kept changing directions almost going around in what seemed like a huge circle. A group of guys and girls in two cars from Cape town stopped to give me water. Further on as the wind increased in strength, sand began to get blown about. I stopped and had to have some chocolate energy cereal ihad bought on recommendation from Sonja on the D707. It was now blowing so hard even to powder was swirling in my cup and getting blown out of it. Everything had to be held down. Had it started to blow away it would not have been retrievable as it picked up speed across the featureless landscape. Even an empty sardine can began to blow away across the road. I chased after this and retrieved it .
Sand was being blown around by now and blowing against my legs.
I felt a little better and recharged after this snack. A large yellow overlander truck passed and stopped. They had a bunch of young people from the UK and Australia onboard. The kindly topped up all my bottles.
Battling on with the wind at a much better angle some East German guys stopped and offered me a cold Windhoek, with now only 20km to till Aussenkehr I did not refuse.
I drank it within a few minutes it did not even touch the sides of my stomach. They spoke little English but we kind of understood each other.
The road soon started going downhill this was so welcome, up until now there had been some very loose patches and walking was necessary at times for short distances. It was actually nice to get off the bike and have a walk.
I had to keep going as camping out here was impossible out of the wind. A cluster of vehicles was seen near the road parked in a corral fashion just to keep the wind at bay. This was the camp of the road maintenance guys.
I reached the left turn to Aussenkehr, here before my eyes in the distance was a green carpet. It was a huge vineyard of table grapes along the valley floor alongside the Orange river.
To the left wasa sheer escarpment of tortured rock. This was the most green I had seen since getting into Namibia it was almost surreal. Another 6km saw me arrive at Aussenkehr which was nothing more than a Spar Supermarket in a huge shed and a Furnimart in another.
There were people everywhere. The security guys let me park the bike in the supermarket.
Here a large carton of milk was drunk and two yoghurts whilst shopping for a few supplies.
On leaving I asked the manager if I could camp somewhere near here. He kindly took me down to his house by the river.
This was so welcome here was green grass and a place out of the wind. The Orange River was just below his house.
It was all choked with weed and appeared not to be flowing. He said the coming rains will flush the shallow rooted weed away.
It was harvest season in the vineyards. Some 35,000 are employed here during this time. It was pay day so that explained all the people around the supermarket, he said that some days after people have been payed they let them into the supermarket in groups of 500. When they have finished shopping the next lot are allowed to enter.
These workers come from all over Namibia for this harvest, many return for the pruning season.
I was feeling lazy and just had baked beans for dinner with 4 cups of tea. Isak allowed me to use his shower, so it was so nice to be free of all the dust that had accumulated all day .
It had been one of those days where I just had to keep going, though always knowning there was an oasis at the end of the days road.
I fell asleep instantly, sub consciously knowing nothing was going to bother me tonight.
02/12/2015 Spa Superarket, Aussenkher to Amanzi River Camp
D46, T2.4, Av17.54, max43, 49,837 13,985
3km gravel then asphalt, reasonably calm
I had rung Colleen from the camp to what facilities they had. It sounded ideal. The first 5km of the ride was past more grape vines on the slopes down to the river. I stopped at one big packing shed to enquire about the operation. A Serbian man had seen the potential in the valley to grow table grapes and had bought the whole valley and planted some grapes. Since then it has been sold off in portions.
There are now a conglomerate of companies growing grapes here.
There are some 1500ha planted with more going in all the time.
I bought a good supply fresh fruit and veges from the supermarket before leving and said goodbye to Isak.
Colleen said she could keep them in a fridge for me.
The ride here was very pleasant on the asphalt but still very much in the desert. Getting to the turnoff, the road ran down to the river. Here at the Amanzi river camp her husband Johann showed me around. It was a great tranquil riverside location. It had a good feel about. What a great place to just relax before leving Namibi.
I had a little shelter with water and electricity. It was uncrowded before the Xmas rush.
There was a couple in big overland truck here that I had met in Betta.
Another family next door and I discussed the route north and the route into South Africa.
03-5/12/2015 Amanzi River Camp
D108, T7.5, Av14.42, max54, 49,791 13,939
howling westers fine 40+ with a small sand storm
Time here was very relaxing. The owners Johann and Colleen were especially nice people. We got on well. I set my tent up under neath a gazebo structure which had power and a hand basin with tap water. Itwas all I needed. All my washing was done and other things just generally checked out.
My panniers were emptied. These were then immersed in the river to see if they were still water proor. Apart from a few holes they were still keeping water out. However I will still use plastic bag liners inside.
There was one other camper here. Shane was up here on an extended stay to ease his South African tax burden, he was acdeep sea dive.
He and I spent a couple of days fly and spinner fishing in the river for small and Large outhed Yellowfish. We would take a canoes up or down to the weirs in the afternoon or mornings.
It was one of these trips to the lower weir that I nearly drowned. Even now two weeks later the experience is so vivid in my mind.
Shane was fishing just 5m out from the weir mid stream in chest deep water. Wearing my keen sandals a walk was taken out into the clear warm waters along the top of the weir. There was about 300m of water flowing over the concrete structure. We were chatting and I decided to slip over the edge for a dip. Sliding over in the warm water, my feet made contact with some rocks against the wall.
It was then the waters moved me away from the weir. All of a sudden, the depth was greater than my height. The water was aerated and it was impossible to stay on the surface treading water. Neither could I swim out of the vertical revolving current. I went down once and managed to come up then under again and yelled to Shane “help” he thought I was joking.
Under again, and now panicking, energy was being burnt rapidly. I yelled to Shane as best I could. He sensed the urgency and waded over. He reached out his rod only just getting it within my reach. I hung on to the tip and he slowly walked backwards. This freed me from the aerated water. Again, I could tread water.
I was in shock and only just had enough energy to reach a point where the water was shallow enough to stand.
During the ordeal, I distinctly remember thinking that I don’t want to die here. It is still so vivid.
When Shane came from the water I gave him a huge emotional hug and thanked him for saving my life.
I could hardly stand up and went and sat on the rocks and tried to come to terms with what had just happened. How a tranquil time fishing on a seemingly harmless river had suddenly turned into the place where my life was almost taken.
Reading on the net, these weirs are known as “drowning machines” in the US.
As mentioned in the past here in my blog. Four and a half years on the shores of Lake Winnibigoshish in nthn Minnesota, and Indian elder whom I was speaking with presented me with an eagle fether. He said “Nigel take this with you on your travels, never let it touch the ground and you will be looked after.
I have followed that instruction up to this day.
It scares me to think if so many things were not in place today during this fearful event.
Had Shane not been with me, had I not been so fit, had the two piece rod come apart, the outcome would have been tragically different I know.
It is my first experience with a near death experience.
We also enjoyed an evening with Johann and Colleen having a braai.
The afternoon before after fishing Shane and I had a few drinks at the bar and a few more. We then went to my camp and I cooked a pasta, whilst we enjoyed a nice RSA red.
It is the most alcohol I have drunk for some time. It was in good company so there was a good excuse. Plus we had enjoyed a great afternoon on the river.
The time at the Amanzi river camp was great, Johann and Colleen, though very busy organizing canoe trips were great hosts and enjoyable company. If you are ever between Assenkehr and Noordoewer in Southern Namibia. Make a point of having a night here on the river.
D85, T5, Av16.53, Max45, 48,254, 12404 (85 km around Swakop)
South Westerly, 35+ degrees.
I finally got away about 1000. Brett took Cal and Ben to the bus to Joburg, which made it easy with the bike boxes in his pickup.
Cal has given me his two wheels which have Sun Rhinolite 36 hole rims. Hopefully there will be no more spoke problems. I also have his front Surly rack with the carrier.
I had also been to the dentist in Swakop, a filling was repaired at the hospital and antibiotics prescribed by another private dentist Willie knew. One of my rear teeth was infected.
The antibiotic fixed it fast. I will carry this in future, as the toothache was very painful from the pressure exerted on it whilst eating so much meat.
It was hard saying goodbye to the guys, we had such a wonderful 5mths together on the road from Kenya. A time none of us will ever forget.
I left with about 6l of water. The bike weighed 50kg on the back wheel and 30 on the front when put on Ritas scales.
Our time with them was such a great way to finish the trip. They were unbelievably hospitable. Cal cooked up a pepper chicken dish on our last night. Leon from the Tug restaurant joined us.
As usual the dish was a hit.
On the road there was 60km of asphalt out to the turnoff to the Uranium mine. This was easy riding. It was a true desert landscape. As soon as I left Swakop, the Namib desert began.
The whitish gravel road was highly reflective, bouncing the sunlight back at me and burning my face and arms.
By now, I was running low on water and had to ask every motorist for water. Scholl and Renee were heading out to their farm for the weekend. They asked me if I wanted to join them. Their offer was politely turned down.
They gave me enough water for the night. They also said on their return on Sunday they would give me more water if they saw me on the road.
Most of the other four vehicles seen only had small amounts of water as expected.
Most were German tourists in hire cars.
Near 1700, an outcrop of round red rocks was seen on my left. Upon investigation, this was a great place to camp down by a damp sand low area. There were animal tracks everywhere in this damp sand. I set up camp at the edge of this area.
It was back to the pasta meals again.
It is much easier cooking for just one. I had with me enough tomatoes and onions for 3 night meals and eight bread rolls.
It was hot until the sun went down, I was happy to see it disappear behind the horizon about 1700hrs.
I was told the only animals out here are, oryx, zebra, jackal and other antelope, so had no discomfort about camping on this frequented area.
The animals left very defined well used tracks through the desert.
It was so nice to be alone again, this was quite a special place in all this dryness to be on my first night since Ben and cal left.
After the sun went down it cooled off very quickly.
31/10/2015 Desert camp to thorny tree camp
D77, T5.5, Av13.25, Max40, 48323, 12481
Foggy morning, very hot day, strong sou westers
Feeling the inside of the tent there was a lot of condensation. Looking outside it was quite amazing, the whole area was shrouded in the life giving fog of the Namib desert.
By 0730 it had begun to lift. The tent dried off quickly. I went for a walk over the next rocky outcrop across the sand area. Animals had been here last night, judging by the fresh footprints.
Over the ridge was a riverbed. Here was one little remnant of water. It was incredibly salty.
Back at the camp, the tent was dry. I was on the road by 0800 .
Another 35km saw me cross the cattle grid and leave the Namib- Naukluft NP.
There were no dwellings in this distance. People were asked for water whenever they passed. Everyone stopped and gave me some.
Once out of the park I found a shady tree and had some bread rolls and sardines.
Last night I had just enough water to cook and drink tea. Four cups of tea were enjoyed. It is a very important part of rehydrating after the day.
Ostriches were seen in the distance as was a squirrel hurriedly crossing the road.
The heat was unbelievable, my arms and face were getting badly burnt. Last night and this morning I had bad cramps in my thighs.
I put this down to the acids and preservatives in the wine I had drunk over the last 2 weeks.
The pain had me crying out as it locked up my legs.
The road was still very flat but always gently climbing. Near the end of the day a gel was taken and some bread enjoyed, the last of it.
My camp was just after D1950. Each property boundary is marked by a cattle grid on the road. The one I crossed near the end of the day entered a property with no road fences it was perfect for camping.
I had collected water off six vehicles. The last was a friendly German couple who gave me 5L. He was over here until January doing his PhD on German history here in Namibia,
I was worn out by the time a place to find a camp was spotted. I rode some 400m off the road into an area of low bushes. These were treacherous. Their branches were covered in hook like thorns. Once a walk around to find a campsite was completed. It took another 20 minutes to cut small branches away to get access. It was a great campsite very private and sheltered.
The ground was firm sand.
My arms and legs were scratched from all the thorns. I had ample water for the night, even enough to have a swab down with my handlebar towel.
1/11/2015 Thorny camp to Hillside camp
D45, T4.3, Av9.9, max51, 48368 12,526
Very hot and windy.
I was awake very early knowing that the Bosua pass was near. People had told me about the steepness of this section.
Knowing this, I was on the road by 0730. I had enough water to keep me going till the heat set in but not too much as to weigh me down.
The road was now undulating hills in more treed country. A local family was encountered walking along the road.
Their young boy was sweating a lot. I stopped and gave him a small amount of water in one of the many bottles I had collected over the last couple of days.
He was very happy. Within about 20km, I came to the foot of the Bosua Pass. It was a formidable sight in the distance with the steepest part paved so vehicles could get traction.
The bottom section was unpaved. Here the bike was pushed up the steepest section. In addition, a bit further as it was just a fast to push as ride. It was a welcome change.
I was stopping every 100m to catch my breath and have a brief rest. The paved section was even steeper. Had it not been paved I don’t think my shoes would even have got traction. Once up here I stopped at the lookout. The sea cloud could be seen on the far horizon. Interestingly the river ran for 184 days in the downpour of 2010-11 summer.
Once past here the rolling hills just continued, it was up and straight down. I stopped at some cattle yards in a valley at km 32 here water was collected from a bore tank. I also boiled up three hot drinks, coffee and tea.
A few cars passed. Then a Landcruiser came through it was Scholl and Renee who had offered to have me on their farm for the weekend they were on their way back to Swakop. They stopped when they saw me under the tree.
They had cold coke and sandwiches with meat for me. This was unreal. They also had cold water.
We talked for awhile. They were saviours. In their trailer was a thorny bush. On asking it was found that out here they use these bushes as xmas trees.
There are no trees in Swakop, Renee said the long thorns are great for hanging decorations.
The riding continued to be up and down. I was happy I had a full load of water
Riding on some Kudu were seen in a stockyard, it had high railing fences. They saw me and cleared the 7ft high enclosure with much ease.
I got to a great elevated area that had some 2G signal. I inspected the site and found a good camp with views. Another car stopped. We talked for awhile The woman worked for an offshore diamond dredging company, Debmarine, it was very interesting how they extracted the diamonds from the ocean floor that had been washed down rivers over millions of years.
I set up camp and ate Renees sandwhiches, they sufficed for dinner. My body really reacted to the processed meat. I felt a bit sickly afterward.
This shows me just how bad processed food is if you don’t eat it regularly.
It was still blowing on the site. The people had given me Billtong and a hot coke. The coke could wait till the morning when it will be colder.
Willy rand up for a chat.
A local on horseback came past in the dark he could not speak English we talked for awhile if you can call it that.
There were cattle and warthogs seen near my camp.
There are leopards all through this country but they are very shy. The kudu sometimes get rabies and should not be approached as they came become crazed and dangerous.
It had been another physically challenging day here on the C28. The hardest road I have ridden in Africa and there is still more to go.
2/11/2015 Hillside camp to 5km past Aud farm
D59, T5.3, Av10.53, max46, 48,428 12,585
Very hot and windy.
It was very fresh and windy in the morning, I wore my beany and sweat shirt.
There were yards and water at 5km. I did not need water so kept going. Striking a balance between water needs and weight are important. There is no point carrying water unnecessarily.
There were animal tracks all over the road where they had crossed during the night. I am getting to know the patterns.
A tank in a gully also had water at 15km.
The temperature was only 20 degrees with the wind chill colder. I soon just ran out of steam and had to stop. A farmer gave me some water.
I stopped and had one of my back Country food packs. I have carried these for the whole time and eaten them only when their use by date was nearing. Today was the first time they were used in an emergency situation. I recommend this NZ product. The Lamb, veges and mashed potato was very nice.
At km 28 today, the hills finally eased up. The road ahead for kilometres could be seen through the scattered trees in the huge landscape.
At km 57, there was another farm where water could be obtained.
By 1700 I was totally wornout and stopped at the Aud farm for water. Here all my containers were filled I would camp as soon as a spot could be found.
Five km from the farm in the next valley I found a low spot below the road. The land was all fenced though the road reserve offered some space to camp among the few trees.
A great wind free spot was found amongst some dry grass in a sandy watercourse. In my haste to have a hot drink I nearly started a grass fire with the stove. Some of my precious water was used to put it out. It was potentially a very hazardous situation.
It was nice to relax out of the wind. An unreal pasta was cooked. After which a cup of tea was enjoyed on my seat just watching the starry sky.
For me it was a very special moment here for five or ten minutes.
I truly was free here under the Namibian sky, and it felt so good.
3/11/2015 5km past Aud farm to Wofly and Claudias farm
D36, T3.3, Av10, max38, 48,464 12,621
Mild with strong head winds.
I had a great sleep and was on the road early.
There was no dew so the tent was dry. I was looking forward to getting onto the asphalt up ahead, some 40km away.
This road had quartz stones all over it and many loose sandy sections it really was hard riding once up the Bosua Pass.
I crossed a creek bed bridge and spent time inspecting an old German fort made of the shale on a hill. It was a halfway point for soldiers. There were rifle placements in the walls where those inside could defend any attackers.
It had a commanding view of the surrounding landscape. Not far on was a huge derelict old German style house. An inspection of this was made. It was a massive construction. I wondered what went wrong here.
Firstly, a dream had been realised then was it love, money, betrayal, health or stupidity or the lack of enthusiasm that saw it abandoned.
It must have been exciting times out here in this landscape in such a huge house of grandeur. There was even an old fountain in the main living room .
Another building that was abandoned was passed further on.
I later found out it is called the ghost house.
I came upon a local village, Baumargarts Brunn, in a creek bed, there were tin shacks scattered about. Riding in here no one could be seen. Anyway, on the way out a guy yelled to me.
I told hime I needed water, he gave me some and his wife was cooking good old Mendases. I hadn’t had one in a month or more. I offered to give her some money and ate four of them.
Then what a thrill up in the distance a black strip could be seen.
I was about to kiss it when I reached the asphalt. This had been an unbelievably enduring 5 days here on the C28.
A house could be seen in the distance.
Though only 30km from Windhoeck. It was decided to stop here for water and camp down the road and get into town mid morning tomorrow.
I rode up the drive and was greeted by a man then a younger guy came over to chat .His name was Yneys.
We started chatting about things then his mum Claudia came out. She was introduced and asked if I would like to stay the night.
She showed me to my own little guest house and I showered and shaved. This felt so fantastic after 5 days of dust, wind and dirt all mixed with sweat. We had lovely pasta lunch before going over in their fire truck to help a family across the way that had afire start on the property from sparks while metal was being ground.
Fifty acres was burnt in less than an hour. It was under control by the time we got there.
Back at the farm Yenys took me for a tour in his sawn off Nissan Patrol. We saw Kudu, Oryx, Warthog., Ostriches, Sprinbbok and cattle of course.
It was great to learn things about these animals, the weather and landscape all from a farmer.
That evening we ate another lovely meal of cold smoked oryx and salami with bread.
Wolfy and his family were so hospitable, they were so easy to get along with. We really enjoyed each others company.
They had lots of pets, dogs, cats and birds along with goats and chooks. It was a lovely family atmosphere in fantastic surroundings overlooking the surrounding landscape. They had a drilling business and the property was a conservancy, so the animals were quiet.
4/11/2015 Wofly and Claudias farm to Paradise Gardens guest house
D27, T1, Av12.26, max57, 48,491 12,648
Head winds.
This morning Wolfy asked me if I wanted to come to a property with them to do some water divining for the owner.
The owner John and a geologist were introduced to me. We all headed off. I went with John. A very enthusiastic likeable guy a bit older than me and just as fit.
We chatted all the way to his property. On arrival at the site, Wolfies rig was already there halfway into a bore hole.
We spent a few hours divining and using electronic gear looking for a good water source for the soon to be subdivided rural land.
People are wanting lifestyle blocks away from the city .
It was a great morning learning about the landscape out here. I finally got to see a Camel Thorn tree that is the rolls Royce of Braai wood out here.
There were some very big specimens on the property. It is a species of Acacia.
Back at the farm, we had a great lunch the Claudia had prepared. They had a really comfortable homestead that I felt totally at ease in. A was a real farm family atmosphere with them. I finally got away about 1400 and rode the easy 27km into Windhoek. On the way a shanty town was passed, this was a collection of corrugated iron huts. There was a distinct smell as I passed the community. I later read in the paper these places are neither sewered or have reticulated water. Just over the hill were plush normal renedered new dwellings. I got to the paradise gardens and met Christina who owned the guesthouse.
Here I slept up by the pool in my tent the first night. I recommend this guesthouse, it felt safe and had all facilities. Christina was easy to get along with.
On the Friday I finally picked up my new debit card at Renees business Ramppoint. He and I spent the morning going over the map for my future route and then he took me to all the bike shops in town. A new chain was bought from Mannies.
A trip out to the Grove Mall was made in the afternoon. This is another huge mall well before its time. A hop here called Dis Chem had things that I needed. I like to use Parchouli oil on my neck warmer, it smells better than sweat!
It rained in the afternoon so I slept in a dorm for the night.
The next day bike maintenance was done and a trip made to bush Whackers camp store. This was the best one I had seen. My dry bag used on the back of the bike was replaced and a new tiny foldable backpack was bought. My old one was dsmaged during the road incident in Cairo.
In the afternoon, I rode across to Johns and Esters, in Ausblick. They had a beautiful home with great views. It was right near the huge presidential house that no one lives in. We sat around the pool for drinks then dined on a traditional Afrikaans dinner. The Afrikaners always say a grace and hold hands before eating. The dinner was something else. We enjoyed baby hake and most interesting and enjoyingly, Mountain Zebra steaks, they were delicious.
The next day John and I visited more bike shops as my chain from Mannies did not mesh with my cassette. I finally found the Sram chain that I use.
It had been such a great time here also. John, 65 was a super fit guy and runs marathons and rides bikes. We were both interested in each others diets.
We enjoyed each others company for the time we had together.
I finally left his place at 1500 in the afternoon.
7/11/2015 Windhoek to a camp on the D1426
D38, T3, Av11.54, max57, 48,530 12,686
Fine and mild
On leaving Johns house, some 4km on I stopped and had a great salad and pork meal at the restaurant in the supermarket at Hamutenya Wanehepo Ndadi st.
Here I also bought water to get some containers. Yesterday with John, I had bought onions and tomatoes plus lots of bread and half a dozen eggs to boil.
Leaving town and taking the C26, it turned to gravel after about 20km.
From here it was a steady climb. I was glad that the meal had been eaten. There were other mountain bike riders returning to town.
The fat bikes are popular here and are used in the deserts.
I met a guy on the road training so we rode together till the end of the asphalt.
Further on at about 1800hrs a young couple were on the side of the road, I asked them for some water. They said they had none but had a beer.
We chatted for 20 minutes over a stubby. He had just bought a new Landcruiser tray back.
Interestingly it was a V6 petrol. He said they were better in the dunes.
From here, I could not find a suitable campsite and the sun was nearly down.
Seeing a side road, I took this and found a great campsite, not before startling some Kudu on the roadside. They are large antelope.
Dinner was just hot chocolate and four bread rolls with boiled eggs and peanut butter.
The campsite was quiet and had nice views, the trees were not thorny, which made life easy.
It had a nice slope, sleep came very easy.
8/11/2015 Camp on the D1426 Isabis farm
D103, T7, Av14.63, max50, 48,633 12,789
Fine and hot, sou wester blowing
The camp had been a great secure spot, this led me to have a sleep in, till 0700 anyway.
I was back on the C26 by 0830. The terrain was still rolling hills but nothing extreme. Many mountain bike cyclists were passed on the way. Again, training for the Desert Dash. This is the road they take. Some stopped to talk most were in training mode.
As I progressed further westward, the vegetation got smaller and more sparse. Kudu were seen on the odd occasion.
I got to the turnoff and headed in a more southerly direction.
I stopped to get water from the grader driver crew. They were having the day off.
It was slowly getting hotter though the road was in good condition and flat in places.
Soon the heat was really setting in, a large shady Camel Thorn tree near the roadside in a low area was chosen to eat 4 cups of tea and chocolate and have bread.
Here I laid out my food cloth and had a sleep for an hour or more.
Riding on I stopped a vehicle for more water. It was a van full of people from Botswana, they kindly gave me a bottle of icy cold water.
I transferred this into my drink bottles so it would not warm up to quick.
Good progress was being made and I was almost fully hydrated. By now, it was 1600hrs and I needed water for the night. Another vehicle was flagged. They were a family who had been camping for the weekend and had a camper. They loaded me with 7 litres from the camper tank.
Coming to my turnoff onto the D1265, I stopped to ask a road crew if this was the correct way to Solitaire, it was. They were camping on the roads edge and were clearing vegetation.
This road was very sandy in patches and walking for short periods was required.
It was so good to no longer have spoke problems and the front Surly rack that cal gave works great. It gives the front panniers full support and the rack is perfect for carrying water.
Riding along this road there was a man in the middle of nowhere walking at 1800. I stopped to talk he was walking 10km to a farm for work. I gave him a cup of water.
Though this sounds little, every drop I had was needed.
We said goodbye. This worried me a bit, as he would see where I left the road to camp.
I opened a gate into one paddock and went in, I covered my tracks afterward, a bit useless, as my foot prints were everywhere. I assumed these guys were master trackers.
I decided against this spot as I was on someone’s property and rode back out. The idea would be to ride further than 10km and find a camp.
The road reserve was narrow with few trees offering camping privacy.
On dark, I came to a 4x4 track. This unexpectedly led me to a farm .
Here I found Adele who was feeding her horses.
I asked if they had a spot where I could camp. She introduced me to Joachim her husband. They said I could use their guest accommodation.
It was a great self contained flat with hot water and shower. It was so nice to be cleaned up and enjoy a great pasta Adele had prepared.
The next day we spent time looking at the Eucalypts around their homestead. Joachims grandfather planted them.
They invited me to spend another night with them.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and repairing a puncture.
It was so relaxing around the homestead. Adele showed me through the house they are in the process of renovating.
The people of Namibia have been so hospitable. Joachim and I looking at my route and he has given me the names of friends to get in touch with if necessary. In the afternoon, I grafted a lemon tree for Adele.
Joachim and I also went for a drive out on the farm to guest accommodation for astrologers they are setting up.
They said poaching of animals is a real problem here and a group of farmers has been formed to do patrols on certain nights. People shoot Oryx and Kudu and then sell the meat in town.
10/11/2015 Joachim and Adeles place farm to Carolines farm
D75, T4.4, Av16.07, max47, 48,707 12,864
Fine and hot, calm
Joachim and Adela had to go to town early. We all had a quick breakfast together and they left for Windhoek.
Before I left half an hour later, I topped up with their good bore water.
Some 40km into the ride, my rear tyre started slipping on the rim and consequently tore the valve off.
Luckily I had a new can of glue Ben had given me. This was repaired and the old tyre glued to the rim. This tyre was new in Cairo.
I stopped at the pass turnoff and got water from a farm house. The owner had two vicious Dobermans near tearing the gate down to get at me,. He put them in the house.
Some of these farms are growing prickly pear, which they often feed to stock.
I got to the turnoff at Lepel and sat down behind a small shed and had 4 cups of tea. There was a huge storm brewing out over Windhoek way. However, it was noisy but not wet. A ute passed by and I recognised Caroline whom I had met at Adeles farm. She asked me to come and stay on her property for the night. Once there. I said I would cook my pasta for her. Vegetables had been with me since Windhoek. Her property was another oasis in the desert. She had geese, sheep, and many other animals around the house. Her favourites were the four Border Collies.
I had my own quarters away from the main house. We ate and talked too late into the evening. The property is all powered by solar power. A dream of mine is to have a house off the grid.
11/11/2015 Carolines farm to Solitaire
D64, T4.5, Av13.27, max35, 48,771 12,928
Head winds after the pass
Caroline had the conservation guys out to do a Mountain Zebra count on her property.
I got away about 0800, some 16km from her place I stopped in at her husbands farm, Jahn who was a master vegetable and fruit grower. We chatted for an hour. He kindly gave me some oranges and a lovely bottle of frozen orange pulp.
This was all thawed and drunk within 20km. The day was that hot.
The day was a relatively easy ride. The Remhoogte Pass was especially scenic with eagles soaring in the thermals above the high rock faces. This was mountain zebra country. Except they were over the back on faces that had feed. Last night at Carolines I ate smoked zebra before dinner.
Below the pass was even a pool of water on the road from a subterranean creek that had surfaced. This was a real surprise.
The road was now deteriorating with corrugations and loose gravel. I nearly came off on a number of occasions.
I soon got to the turnoff to Solitaire, this meant heading north into a fierce head wind. It was like this for 14km.
I stopped at the only gas station store in Solitaire and here drank lots of fluids.
I booked a nights camping at the campsite.
Whilst in reception I met this woman, who later came up to me and asked if I wanted a room. They had a booking mix up. She said I could have the room they did not need.
This was so kind of them. Here I had a luxury room with air conditioning and all the mod cons.
That night I joined some Swedish people for a huge buffet. They were great company. After I joined Louise and her friends for a drink.
Then retreated to my little bit of luxury for the night.
12/11/2015 Solitaire to Sesriem
D87, T5.3, Av15.69, max35, 48,858 13,015
Heads winds into Sesriem
40 degrees plus.
I was up early and went into see the girls. I gave them water to give to me as they passed. They had a torn tyre and had to wait for someone to bring a replacement from the rental company.
The gravel road was in excellent condition and the journey was generally downhill.
The wind was minimal. Riding was easy. I stopped for an icy water at a lodge on the way.
I stopped at the gates of a lodge in the shade. The guard from across at the other gates came over. The first thing he did was put his hand out in front of me and opened and closed his fingers gesturing he wanted some of the orange I was eating. He said gimme gimme. I looked at him and said what about saying please. This was an unbelievably rude gesture. I didn’t care if he was black or whatever race, I would have said this to anyone after this kind of greeting.
I rode on and continued gently losing altitude.
I soon got to the turnoff to Sesriem. Here I was confronted with a full on westerly. My bike thermometer reading 40 degrees. At least the wind was a little cool. Though, there were times when it blew burning hot.
I stopped at a shady little roadside shelter and had a few cups of tea, even though it was only 4km into the village. I just needed to rest.
Once in town I went to the only shop gas station and bought a few drinks. A young German guy, Mark turned up on a fat bike. He had ridden from Cape Town. He was a minimilast gear type. A great enthusiastic guy. Though, all his gear was less than the weight of one of my rear panniers. We talked for an hour or so. Then booked a campsite at the NP campground. This cost 18 plus 8 Nam dollars, the 8 being for the park entrance.
I camped next to a Swiss couple who were also riding south to Cape Town.
Dinner was a burger in the restaurant here in the sandy wildness.
I spoke with a young German girl Sophie who said her and her partner could take me to the dunes in the park in the morning at 0520 when the gates opened.
I got all my gear ready for the early start before going to bed.
Sossusvlei
The next day I was up at 0430, as Sophie and Christian were going to pick me up at 0515. I had bought bread for the day.
We headed off out to Dune 45 to watch the sunrise. This dune is about 250m high. It was hard work climbing to the top. On walking up, one can see just how unfit the average person is. Some people were really struggling. Once at the high point the colours were amazing as the sun rose. We spent a few hours here. Then headed out to the dead valley. Even though the sun saw high in the sky the colours were surreal.
We came back to camp and had a swim and I had a much needed sleep.
In the evening we wnt back to Dune 45 to watch the sunset. It was blowing a gale. Three guys were climbing the dune in the hope of paragliding from it. However the wind was too strong for this persuit. Sand was blowing everywhere and jammed up my faithful old camera.
A few photos were taken. We headed back to the desert camp and had pasta in the restaurant. It had been an enjoyable time with Sophie and Christian for the day.
14/11/2015 Sesriem to Namib Rand park
D82, T7.13, Av11.39, max25, 48,940 13,097
Hot , gentle winds
Most other people were moving around the park at 0430 getting ready to head to Sossusvlei. I got up a little later and slowly packed being sure to get the sand out of everything. The wind blows lightly from the east in the morning before turning to the west in the afternoons and then abates after dark. This is the best time.
I was on the road by 0830 having bought a few supplies at the gas station.
The scenery was dramatic to say the least. Huge rocky plains bounded by rocky hills and outcrops.
The road was sandy in places and very corrugated. I stopped at a ballooning place to ask if I could buy some tomatoes for my pasta. They were great and gave me two. The owner told me they can’t land the balloons in the dunes as they are unable to retrieve them .
Oryx and Springbok were a common sight, they were very shy however.
A Swiss couple from Worb, which I am familiar with stopped and gave me a cold coke and water.
Lunch was had in the only shade I could find which was the stone wall of an entrance to a lodge .Even then this was only 300mm of reprieve from the sun.
The whole landscape was now rock strewn. Oryx were feeding among the rocks.
I was now in this huge open flat valley with hills on both sides. On the left in the middle of it was the wardens house for the Namib Rand nature reserve.
Riding in the gate the house seemed close but it was 2km away. Such is the size of the landscape here.
Quinton the warden gave me water, then said I could stay with his staff 10km up the road.
I was very worn out by now but thought this was a good idea and headed off. The road just kept going. However, as the sun went down the colours got better and better. A packet of biscuits was eaten just to keep going.
Finally, at 1900 I arrived at the house. The guys came to greet me. They said Quinton had phoned them.
I set the tent up under the balcony roof of the house. A pasta was cooked and some shared with the guys around the fire.
They even had hot water and a great shower.
Another oasis in the desert.
15/11/2015 Namib Rand park to Betta
D65, T4.21, Av14.79, max46, 49,005 13,162
Easy ride, some soft patches
Last night the sound of Mountain Zebra at the nearby trough woke me up. The guys said they come down every evening to drink the water.
I packed slowly and was on the road by 0800. The ride was up for a short while then a nice roll down hill. I stopped by a tree to do something on my phone. Under the tree was the head and dry gut of a springbok. A leopard must had killed and dragged the carcass here to feed on it.
Further on in the still huge landscape was a burnt out car. This was in stark contrast to the landscape.
The road was now quite flat but was variable in its surface. Sometimes hard and others soft. The bike was even walked for a short while.
On a straight stretch about 1000hrs, my rear tyre deflated rapidly. On inspection there was a small rip in the tube. I was in the middle of nowhere with no shade. Back 3km the tracks of the Swiss riders went into a house where they must have camped the night.
It took 2 hours to sort out this problem,. The patches would not seal this rip. In the end, I put a new tube on.
I have learnt a lesson here. The old tyre should have been replaced in Windhoek.
I was trying to squeeze another few km from it. Once on the road some 8km from Betta it went down again. It was quickly repaired though again the hole was a rip.
It was hoped it would hold. A guy stopped and gave me plenty of water.
Most of which was drank on the spot.
On arrival in Betta, just a farm and service station. I booked a camp. Over at the house I spoke with Renee the owner. She kindly gave me some lovely watermelon, papaya and fresh figs from her garden.
All the properties have solar power. In this case they had a wind generator as well.
They are hoping for rain soon, she said the east wind brings the rain.
I cooked up fried potatoes and climbed in the tent under a shelter.
It was a great camp ground with good shade trees and some stone wall protection from the wind and sand .
There was only one other group of campers who spent the night.
This tyre is going to have to be replaced. From here, I need to get a lift back to Windhoek to get a new tyre and tube. It will be a good opportunity to get some supplies also.
16,17,18,19/11/2015 Betta to Windhoek, hitchhiking and back
After the lucky arrival at Betta, it was decided that the only thing to do was go back to Windhoek to buy a new rear tyre and tubes. Renee from the campground said she would look after the bike for a couple of days.
I met a local farmer Bernd at the cafe and he said he was going up to Windhoek.
He would pick me up mid morning. It was a slow but enjoying trip with Bernd we talked much of the way and I had a great sleep in the back of his defender. We were towing a trailer with a moto on the back.
The route we took was through Maltahohe, then up to Mariental and onto Rehoboth and north to Windhoek. Bernd dropped me off at the Grove shopping centre on this south side of town. New riding shorts were bought as my others got ripped.
I then headed back to to Paradise Gardens backpackers where I had stayed previously. Christina had room for me.
The next day a tyre was bought at Cymott. Here some tubes and puncture repair patches were also bought.
I found this shop had the best selection of gear touring cyclists may need. Most other shops are all geared up for mountain bike riding and have all equipment in wheel sizes 28,29 inches as the fashion in mountain bikes seems to be now. Though Mannie was a help.
I also stocked up on groceries. Early in the morning I caught a taxi out to the road block at the southern end of town. Here a ride was obtained to Reheboth, then another to Meriental.
I had to wait at the turnoff here for two and a half hours in the sun. The only shade was that from the road sign. This soon disappeared as the sun got hight in the sky. Luckily some French tourists in a four wheel drive picked me up and took me to Maltahohe. Here I spent a couple of hours hanging around the new supermarket and the gas station. Finally a lift was obtained from a farmer who lived 20km before Betta. He kindly took me all the way to Betta.
Once back here, I got the bike from the shed and unpacked and fitted the new tyre. It was great to have the peace of mind that no problems would occur again. The old tyre slipped on the rim was a real problem. Glue had to be used to stop it from moving. Every time a puncture was repaired it needed gluing again. That evening a guy Michiel came over for a chat. He was a real character, a travelling farmer as he described himself. We got on well. I told him of my plans to do the D707.
He said he would take some of my gear down to Aus for me. He was also travelling the D707 and staying at lodges.
I cooked up a great pasta for the evening and got into bed and promptly fell asleep.
It had been a huge 3 days.
20/11/2015 Betta to a roadside camp D707
D79, T7.16, Av10.86, max30, 49,084 13,241
Everything from firm gravel, corrugations to deep red sand walking
Michiel came over for an early chat. My gear was removed from my panniers and put in a big China bag to give to Michiel. All I was taking was food and my tent with my riding clothes and a warm set of clothing and my raincoat.
At about 0900 I got away. It was a slight uphill climb on the gravel road to the turnoff to the D707 .
This road is often described as the most scenic desert road in Namibia.
Given this, I felt I had to ride it.
It was known, there would be deep sand along its 123km length. I had plenty of water and food. It felt unreal to be riding such a light bike.
The weight of the gear left with Michiel was a bit scary. There was maybe 30kg.
At the turnoff I stopped to take a photo and then proceeded, a farm was on the corner.
Some 2km up the road, I topped up with water from a bore tank in some stockyards.
I felt confident taking this route now my tyres were both new and not slipping on the rims. The front Surly rack Cal gave me is so good for carrying 2 bottles of water.
I stopped about 1300 and had a meal under a shady tree. One has to be careful not to stop under trees with too many thorns, though most do. Here I had sardines and bread with a couple of cups of chocolate.
Whilst sheltering here from the wind a vehicle came past and offered me some water. The drivers were from Switzerland. They are often the ones that stop to offer water.
I was making good progress when up ahead there was red sand looming. Once I got to this, it was just walking and pushing. This went on for two hours at least.
By now it was getting late in the day and the sun was getting lower. Consequently the landscape colours were becoming more dramatic.
This made the pushing easier. I took my sandals off, thats how deep the sand was.
Had the bike been fully loaded, the energy required to do this would have been huge. I really wonder if I could have made it. I get a twinge in my lower back when pushing.
With the weight I was carrying it was possible to make reasonable time. My speed was about 4km/hr. With rests every 50m or so.
I stopped to take photos of the now emotion producing beauty of the scenery.
The colours were breath taking.
After some time I got out of the sand, however the road surface was still very soft. I came to a rock formation on my left. It offered no opportunity for camping so I rode on. The country was still fenced. Any lodges passed were too far in off the road to be practical to visit.
Riding 10-15 km off the road and uphill just to have to py for accommodation was not an option.
The road slowly went downhill. By now, it was getting dark.
I found some low bushes on the roadside by the fence. This was the only place worth camping. I found I had forgotten to bring my tent pegs.
I had to hunt for rocks to secure the tent to the ground with my stretch straps and cargo nets that were with me.
I put some music on my speaker and just revelled in the beauty and solitude of this place. It was a very emotional time for me .
The only other time this happened to this extent was high in the Andes above the village of Limon above Balsas way down in the canyon. Here, the emotion was accompanied by an epiphany. Which still keeps me enthusiastic and enriched by this journey today, three and a half years later.
The back of the tent was put into the wind. As the small particles of sand blew about, they eddied over the tent and found their way inside. The wind was still blowing strong. I had my chair with me of course. This was a saviour to be able to sit down. I had to put on all my warm gear, longs and raincoat included.
Dinner was a back Country dehy food pack and a cup of tea. I had to get inside the tent and just get out of the wind.
Before going to bed at 2000hrs a look up at the crystal clear sky revealed the milky way almost bridging its vastness. The sky was so clear.
On climbing in my sleeping bag to keep warm, I was happy to have got through the sand today. Tomorrow would be a fresh start. I took my large Opinel to bed.
I was aware of the hyena out here that can be very menacing to solo campers. Sleep came almost immediately
21/11/2015 Roadside camp D707 to Sonja and Wilhelms farmD707
D59, T6.3, Av8.92, max20, 49,143 13,300
Everything from firm gravel, corrugations to loose sand and walking
The morning was another sight to behold. It was extremely cold until the sun came up about. The scenery was stunning in the early morning light. What made this desert so unique are the hills and rock formations within it. It is not just a vast flatness like so many other environments similar.
I got on the road by 0730, the road deteriorated again into gravelly sand that was just too soft to ride.
I spent most of the morning pushing. There were some lodges along the way but the distances into them were great. Cars could be seen coming from one they were tiny against the hills behind.
Yesterday only 5 vehicles had passed me. A car came up behind me and low and behold, it was Michiel, he had spent the night at the Namib lodge. We gave each other a big hug.
He gave me water and we chatted for a while and said we would catch up in Aus.
I continued a mix of riding and pushing.
I stopped at 100 to eat, that much energy was being used. A Swiss couple stopped and gave me water and an apple which was so good .
I found the only bush to stop behind for lunch. I had to climb under a fence to get in the lee of it.
The day was now very hot and the wind howling. Sand again found its way into everything.
The scenery was unreal, the mountain valleys were full of sand in ll shades of brown, like glaciers flowing down to the valley floors in which I was riding.
At times the road ahead could be seen for miles. Some frightened Oryx were seen.
At least I was going down now. The road improved somewhat. There were other bike tracks on the road. Obviously, those of someone on an unloaded bike they were to straight and in places quite soft.
Another German couple stopped to give me water.
By now, the wind was getting stronger. I stopped and ate the last of my bread with peanut butter. This had been a saviour.
All of a sudden, the road improved, it was constructed of imported road base.
It was very white and glary. Way up ahead a building could be made out. They gave me strength. There was no way I could camp out un protected in this fierce wind.
About 1800 I reached the farmhouse in the lee of a hill range. Here I rode in and introduced myself. Wilhelm and Sonja had me in for a cup of tea and homemade biscuits. I ended up having two pots of black tea.
I asked if I could set up my tent somewhere, they said I could use their caravan. They also invited me to eat with them. Sonja made a lovely, oryx stew and some vegetables. I got over to the caravan and just thought how incredibly lucky I was to be here in this shelter from the storm.
Sonja was a keen gardener and had a great desert garden. She also had aquiver tree garden that looked surreal in the red end of day colours.
Wilhelm showed me a photo of three hyenas they shot recently that were hanging around cows to eat the young as they were being born. They told me of a story about a Swiss rider who arrived and could not talk as he had been yelling at one that would not leave his camp for a whole night.
I was lucky not to have been harassed last night.
By the time I got to sleep the wind was howling to the point where it was shaking the caravan.
22/11/2015 Sonja and Wilhelms farm D707 to Aus
D71, T4, Av17.45, max58, 49,213 13,371
Howling nor easter blew me to Aus
Early in the morning it was still blowing a gale. I went over to the house and had my maize meal and coffee. I said goodbye and was on the road by 0830. Sonja had kindly made me bread sandwiches with her delicious homemade bread and butter. I took these.
Heading east on the D707, the wind was so strong from the north I had to walk during some gusts, it was fierce.
Within 10km I turned left onto the C13, horay, I had the strongest of tail winds being blown along the good gravel road at nearly 60km in places.
I was ecstatic, the D707 had been ridden. It was all worth it. For me it was definitely the most spectacular scenery so far in Namibia. I felt I had achieved something.
The C13 was straight as far as the eye could see.
A stop was made at the bottom of the huge valley. The bread was unreal with tomatoes.
All morning it was a slow climb.
Some local boys were seen riding bareback, they were looking for wild horses of which there are many out here in places.
Up ahead in the distance I could see tha blackness of asphalt. Here I turned right and was blown into Aus.
Michiel was at the gas station, it was great to see him.
He had booked a luxury room at the rest camp, we shared this together. I felt I deserved this. It was not even too pricey. All my washing was done and my gear he had was packed. We enjoyed a great chicken schnitzhel at the local hotel.
A few people spoke to me at the gas station after having seen me on the D707. A French woman about my age looked at me and in all seriousness said “you must be crazy”.
She really meant it .I said yes, “that’s possible but it is very enjoyable being crazy”.
It was great to be showered and in a huge comfortable bed.
23/11/2015 Aus to Luderitz
D128, T5.5, Av, max63, 49,341 13,499
Downhill slight wind near Luderitz
I was slow gettingup, mosquitos had kept me awake most of the night. Repellent was put on just keep them at bay.
Michiel and I were both up in the middle of the night killing the terrible things.
I finally got away at 0900. It was 125km to Luderitz through the Namib desert. As I left, I was anxious about leaving so late. I may get caught up in the wind .
It was a steady downhill ride for the first 30km. The desert was a creamy openness of nothing except a line of power poles.
By 1230, I had already done 100km,
I may just beat the wind. Though, at km 102 the wind started and the temperature dropped as the cool Atlantic air was buffeting me.
It was a crosswind.
I just kept going knowing that I was capable of beating into strong head winds for 30km anyway.
The coolness made it ok.
There were hills on the way into Luderitz. I got into town again elated about 1430, it was a rapid 128km in five and a half hours. Something of a record for me.
I went straight to immigration and gave them my passport for a one month extension of my visa. This cost 390 Nam dollars, 39 Oz dollars.
Then a ride was made to the Element Riders backpackers, Bernd had told me about this place. Riener there gave me a great single room. The evening was magic there was no wind. I climbed to the top of church hill to take it all in.
Then went to the Casa Bodega for a roast pork dinner.
Luderitz was unusually without wind .I was so pleased the decision was made to come here.
24,25,26,27/11/2015 Luderitz
D59km around Luderitz, 49,399 13,558
Brilliant calm weather
It was going to take 2 days just to get my visa, they had to send it up to Keetmanshoop for processing.
The town had a great feel and the hostal was excellent. I decided just to have a rest here and enjoy this unreal weather. After the big wind storm calmness prevailed.
Infact, for 3 days the weather was almost calm. On the evening I arrived a walk was taken to the top of the church hill to get a feel for the lie of the town.
The first day saw me hitch out to Kolmanskop to the diamond ghost town, the second day a great ride and skinny dip was enjoyed at the totally deserted Agate beach and the last day in fierce wind a ride was taken out to Diaz Point to see the seals, flamingos and the speed channel for kite surfing and windsurfing. Two brilliant buffets were enjoyed at the Barrels bar and two cheaper meals at the Casa Bodega bar.
A beer was enjoyed at the yacht club that has great views of the harbour.
The town has two well stocked supermarkets and supplies were bought. Most days a great afternoon sleep was enjoyed with an afternoon wander about the town.
I met a guy Otto who is going to take me to the Helmeringhausen turnoff, from there I will start riding again. Back tracking is ok sometimes, but back tracking all the way back to Aus in possible head winds and uphill is not a proposition for me.
27/11/2015 Luderitz to culvert camp, B4
D113, T6.4, Av16.8, max35, 49,512 13,671
Light sou westers fine and hot
As arranged, I was up at 0400 and ready for Otto to come and get his ute and head off. He had left it at the hostal for the night.
It was loaded when he arrived. We were on the road by 0515 and at the rest area on the road side past Aus at 0630. It was a quick trip.
We saw the wild horses on the road out grazing early.
It was very cold in the morning when I set off. It was tempting to go on with Otto. He was going all the way Keetmanshoop.
It had been a great break at Luderitz and to get such good weather was just so lucky.
The road was largely uphill in a gentle manner for the first couple of hours then down gently. I stopped at a restaurant in the middle of nowhere, here a homemade pie was eaten and my water topped up.
I had hoped to get a drink at goabeb but it was nothing more than just a group of derelict buildings. Some children on the road told me there was no water here. I kept going feeling still full of energy.
The need for more water arose, The problem with asphalt roads is the traffic moves so fast it is hard to slow people down. A windmill was spotted, there was a name and phone number on the gate I rang the farmer to see if water could be obtained from here. He said it was fine.
My bladder and all bottles were filled with the tasty bore water.
Some distance on I got to a reasonable size culvert under the road. It was well over head height and a great place out of the sun. It was almost air-conditioned with the air flowing through it.
The need to pitch my tent was not necessary until I spotted a big Black Scorpion against the wall seeking shelter from the sun. I flicked it out of the way with my Clic stand. The black species are the dangerous ones.
This was such a good campsite. I was totally worn out and inflated my airbed and promptly fell asleep from 1600 to 1900 hrs. Getting up, a great pasta was prepared.
On going to bed at 2200 some jackals were seen outside on the fence line. I tried to shoo them away but the hung around. Rocks thrown at them were not even a deterrent.
I knew they were not dangerous so was not too concerned. I used my bike to block one end of the culvert and a pile of thorny branches at the other.
Really I was too tired to care it had been a huge day in the heat after 4 days break.
28/11/2015 Culvert camp, B4 to dry river camp past Seeheim C12
D80, T5.4, Av14.3, max45, 49,592 13,751
Light sou westers fine 40+
Up early and well slept, I had a wander outside and found the sun baked carcass of a dead horse near the fencleline, this was attracting the jackals. They were here for Biltong in the evenings!
Once on the road there were a few hills but again generally downhill. By doing so the temperature was getting hotter and hotter.
There was a vehicle parked on the side of the road going up one big climb, a person was standing beside it watching me. We greeted each other on my arrival. It was the farmer who owned the bore. We had a good chat for some time. He said cyclists often stop at his house just near Boageb.
I think he appreciated me giving him a call to ask for the water.
It was getting so hot, soon the landscape took on a canyon like appearance from here there was a long downhill stretch to the turn off to Seeheim on the C12. I rode straight to the hotel in a hollow by the rail track. A large bottle of cool water wad promptly bought.
On arrival there was a welcoming party consisting of an African Grey parrot and a Border Collie, obviously the best of mates.
The parrot was super placid and soon found a roost on my shoulder. The food here was expensive but I bought some. .
It was over 40 degrees. I hung around here till 1600 hours then headed off. The owner told me to take the road by the rail track as it was not back up the hill. Out on the road it was oft but still rideable.
I had hoped to camp in the Lowen riverbed. The hotel owner said you could dig little and find water in the sand.
On arrival there, baboon tracks were spotted everywhere.
I saw them running away, they also had a look out in place. It was decided to ride on. The road was getting in worse condition.
Another small creek bed was crossed, this looked better. Indeed a good campsite as found out of sight of the road. Dodging thorns littering the ground was a big concern on the way in.
It was another incredibly clear starry evening. As usual, a spicy pasta was enjoyed. There were few animal tracks here which always makes me sleep better.
My lower back has been giving me pain ever since sleeping in the back seat of Bernds Defender on the way to Windhoek a week ago. Pushing the bike through stretches of the D707 did not help either.
29/11/2015 Dry river camp past Seeheim C12 to Cañon Roadhouse
D68, T3.4, Av18.14, max41, 49,660 13,819
Light sou westers fine 40+
The morning was calm. I was up early and headed off back towards the road, lugging the bike through the sot sand. Once on the road the scenery was flat but always back dropped by hills and ranges. The vegetation was limited to a few scattered salt type bushes and always surface rocks.
It was an easy downhill ride. Two hire four-wheel drive Hiluxes stopped. It was a Swiss couple and one of the parents in the other vehicle. They offered me water and an apple.
We had a good chat. It is often the Swiss that stop to say hi and ask if water is needed. They lived on Lake Nuchatel where I have spent a small amount of time.
They were great people.
Riding on I came to the turnoff to the Canyon Roadhouse. To my surprise here at the corner was a bottle of cool water and a can of vegetables in brine. The Swiss families had left a note for me. I was a little overwhelmed by this gesture. The canned veges were all I needed for lunch it was such a change. I always carry a loaf of bread and have this with peanut butter if hunger strikes. The wholemeal loaves keep for a few days.
The scenery now was getting very dramatic with large escarpments framing the landscape. I stopped to add a stone to a small cairn on the roadside. I like to do this. I remember the cairn Deirdre and I added some stones to way up near the snow line in the Andes. I wonder if it is still there today.
Up ahead I could see the canyon Roadhouse on the right. Arriving at any place where cold drinks and shelter can be found is such a pleasure. Out on the road even shade cannot be found in many places.
I pulled in here and immediately bought a cold coke with a glass of ice.
I unpacked the bike and got a new battery for the phone.
Inside this large building was a bar and souvenir shop full of curios from a bygone era. There were old cars and all sorts of signs and number plates from around the world.
Whilst sitting down a couple came up to me. Patrick and Rachel around my age were also cyclist. Thouhg at the moment they were travelling in a hired 4x4.
They joined me we spent the afternoon chatting.
They were camping here. Though it was not my plan. It was decided to stop the night. I set up my camp under a cool tree at their camp.
There were oryx and springbok just wandering around the camp. There was also a lovely cool swimming pool. My washing was done. A huge burger was enjoyed for dinner.
The next day the three of us went to visit Fish river canyon and the hot springs of Ai Ais.
The canyon was impressive to say the least. It is second in size to the Grand Canyon.
We spent the morning touring about. We even saw some Hartmann’s mountain Zebras. They looked unreal amongst the rocky hills.
These animals are usually associated with savannah. There were Oryx and Springbok with Ostriches in the landscape as well.
30/11/2015 Cañon Roadhouse to desert camp C37
D22, T1.4, Av12.62, max41, 49,682 13,831
howling westers fine 40+
Another huge burger was enjoyed before leaving about 1400hrs. I got petrol for the stove and headed off after saying goodbye to Patrick and Racheal. We had a great time together for the last two days.
The wind was horrendous out on the road and pretty much a head wind. I only got to near the Canyon Lodge and decided to look for a camp. It was hard to find somewhere out of the wind.
With my full load of water I was just burning up to much energy in the strong winds
Finally, a spot was found among rocky outcrops well off the little used road.
I had plenty of water so all was well. My back was still sore, some Ibuprofen was taken.
The landscape was just like out of a cowboy movie. I half expected to see some cowboys riding across the valley. My camp was right on a well worn animal track.
All hoofed animals which made me feel comfortable.
A dehy food pack was eaten with some soya mince.
It was nice to be camping in the desert again.
01/12/2015 Desert camp C37 to Spa Supermarket, Aussenkher
D108, T7.5, Av14.42, max54, 49,791 13,939
Howling westers fine 40+ with a small sand storm
The tent had been pitched on a slight but perfect slope for a good nights sleep. I was up at 0430 wanting an early start. I knew it was going to be another hot day again. Having done this I was on the road by 0700.
The landscape was as interesting as ever. In the rocky hill country some mountain zebra were seen as well as oryx and springbok and one crazy ostrich that got caught in a fence ascit tried to flee me.
Most animals run when they see cyclists but are more relaxed with vehicles that mostly they don’t associate with danger.
Turning a corner I was confronted by the hugest of open desert valleys, the road went right across it. The grader guys were still working on it. So it was in great condition. When I got to their chuck wagon my water supply was replenished and much was drank on site. At the bottom of the valley, a snack of bread and sardines was enjoyed just sitting in the full sun, there was just no shade.
At the other side of this expanse was the turnoff to Aussenkehr, the D316. Turning put me almost head on into the now strong wind.
This road was taking me deeper into the desert. The landscape was just rock and sand with almost no vegetation. The ranges consisted of contorted seams of rock with some striations of white quartz, it was all very dramatic.
The road kept changing directions almost going around in what seemed like a huge circle. A group of guys and girls in two cars from Cape town stopped to give me water. Further on as the wind increased in strength, sand began to get blown about. I stopped and had to have some chocolate energy cereal ihad bought on recommendation from Sonja on the D707. It was now blowing so hard even to powder was swirling in my cup and getting blown out of it. Everything had to be held down. Had it started to blow away it would not have been retrievable as it picked up speed across the featureless landscape. Even an empty sardine can began to blow away across the road. I chased after this and retrieved it .
Sand was being blown around by now and blowing against my legs.
I felt a little better and recharged after this snack. A large yellow overlander truck passed and stopped. They had a bunch of young people from the UK and Australia onboard. The kindly topped up all my bottles.
Battling on with the wind at a much better angle some East German guys stopped and offered me a cold Windhoek, with now only 20km to till Aussenkehr I did not refuse.
I drank it within a few minutes it did not even touch the sides of my stomach. They spoke little English but we kind of understood each other.
The road soon started going downhill this was so welcome, up until now there had been some very loose patches and walking was necessary at times for short distances. It was actually nice to get off the bike and have a walk.
I had to keep going as camping out here was impossible out of the wind. A cluster of vehicles was seen near the road parked in a corral fashion just to keep the wind at bay. This was the camp of the road maintenance guys.
I reached the left turn to Aussenkehr, here before my eyes in the distance was a green carpet. It was a huge vineyard of table grapes along the valley floor alongside the Orange river.
To the left wasa sheer escarpment of tortured rock. This was the most green I had seen since getting into Namibia it was almost surreal. Another 6km saw me arrive at Aussenkehr which was nothing more than a Spar Supermarket in a huge shed and a Furnimart in another.
There were people everywhere. The security guys let me park the bike in the supermarket.
Here a large carton of milk was drunk and two yoghurts whilst shopping for a few supplies.
On leaving I asked the manager if I could camp somewhere near here. He kindly took me down to his house by the river.
This was so welcome here was green grass and a place out of the wind. The Orange River was just below his house.
It was all choked with weed and appeared not to be flowing. He said the coming rains will flush the shallow rooted weed away.
It was harvest season in the vineyards. Some 35,000 are employed here during this time. It was pay day so that explained all the people around the supermarket, he said that some days after people have been payed they let them into the supermarket in groups of 500. When they have finished shopping the next lot are allowed to enter.
These workers come from all over Namibia for this harvest, many return for the pruning season.
I was feeling lazy and just had baked beans for dinner with 4 cups of tea. Isak allowed me to use his shower, so it was so nice to be free of all the dust that had accumulated all day .
It had been one of those days where I just had to keep going, though always knowning there was an oasis at the end of the days road.
I fell asleep instantly, sub consciously knowing nothing was going to bother me tonight.
02/12/2015 Spa Superarket, Aussenkher to Amanzi River Camp
D46, T2.4, Av17.54, max43, 49,837 13,985
3km gravel then asphalt, reasonably calm
I had rung Colleen from the camp to what facilities they had. It sounded ideal. The first 5km of the ride was past more grape vines on the slopes down to the river. I stopped at one big packing shed to enquire about the operation. A Serbian man had seen the potential in the valley to grow table grapes and had bought the whole valley and planted some grapes. Since then it has been sold off in portions.
There are now a conglomerate of companies growing grapes here.
There are some 1500ha planted with more going in all the time.
I bought a good supply fresh fruit and veges from the supermarket before leving and said goodbye to Isak.
Colleen said she could keep them in a fridge for me.
The ride here was very pleasant on the asphalt but still very much in the desert. Getting to the turnoff, the road ran down to the river. Here at the Amanzi river camp her husband Johann showed me around. It was a great tranquil riverside location. It had a good feel about. What a great place to just relax before leving Namibi.
I had a little shelter with water and electricity. It was uncrowded before the Xmas rush.
There was a couple in big overland truck here that I had met in Betta.
Another family next door and I discussed the route north and the route into South Africa.
03-5/12/2015 Amanzi River Camp
D108, T7.5, Av14.42, max54, 49,791 13,939
howling westers fine 40+ with a small sand storm
Time here was very relaxing. The owners Johann and Colleen were especially nice people. We got on well. I set my tent up under neath a gazebo structure which had power and a hand basin with tap water. Itwas all I needed. All my washing was done and other things just generally checked out.
My panniers were emptied. These were then immersed in the river to see if they were still water proor. Apart from a few holes they were still keeping water out. However I will still use plastic bag liners inside.
There was one other camper here. Shane was up here on an extended stay to ease his South African tax burden, he was acdeep sea dive.
He and I spent a couple of days fly and spinner fishing in the river for small and Large outhed Yellowfish. We would take a canoes up or down to the weirs in the afternoon or mornings.
It was one of these trips to the lower weir that I nearly drowned. Even now two weeks later the experience is so vivid in my mind.
Shane was fishing just 5m out from the weir mid stream in chest deep water. Wearing my keen sandals a walk was taken out into the clear warm waters along the top of the weir. There was about 300m of water flowing over the concrete structure. We were chatting and I decided to slip over the edge for a dip. Sliding over in the warm water, my feet made contact with some rocks against the wall.
It was then the waters moved me away from the weir. All of a sudden, the depth was greater than my height. The water was aerated and it was impossible to stay on the surface treading water. Neither could I swim out of the vertical revolving current. I went down once and managed to come up then under again and yelled to Shane “help” he thought I was joking.
Under again, and now panicking, energy was being burnt rapidly. I yelled to Shane as best I could. He sensed the urgency and waded over. He reached out his rod only just getting it within my reach. I hung on to the tip and he slowly walked backwards. This freed me from the aerated water. Again, I could tread water.
I was in shock and only just had enough energy to reach a point where the water was shallow enough to stand.
During the ordeal, I distinctly remember thinking that I don’t want to die here. It is still so vivid.
When Shane came from the water I gave him a huge emotional hug and thanked him for saving my life.
I could hardly stand up and went and sat on the rocks and tried to come to terms with what had just happened. How a tranquil time fishing on a seemingly harmless river had suddenly turned into the place where my life was almost taken.
Reading on the net, these weirs are known as “drowning machines” in the US.
As mentioned in the past here in my blog. Four and a half years on the shores of Lake Winnibigoshish in nthn Minnesota, and Indian elder whom I was speaking with presented me with an eagle fether. He said “Nigel take this with you on your travels, never let it touch the ground and you will be looked after.
I have followed that instruction up to this day.
It scares me to think if so many things were not in place today during this fearful event.
Had Shane not been with me, had I not been so fit, had the two piece rod come apart, the outcome would have been tragically different I know.
It is my first experience with a near death experience.
We also enjoyed an evening with Johann and Colleen having a braai.
The afternoon before after fishing Shane and I had a few drinks at the bar and a few more. We then went to my camp and I cooked a pasta, whilst we enjoyed a nice RSA red.
It is the most alcohol I have drunk for some time. It was in good company so there was a good excuse. Plus we had enjoyed a great afternoon on the river.
The time at the Amanzi river camp was great, Johann and Colleen, though very busy organizing canoe trips were great hosts and enjoyable company. If you are ever between Assenkehr and Noordoewer in Southern Namibia. Make a point of having a night here on the river.
first nights camp out of Swakopmund on the way to Windhoek, C28
Desert water hole but incredibly saline
The whitish gravel and the suns reflection called for max protection on my face and arms C28
Fascinating scenery at first camp out of Swkopmund
the camp below the Boshua Pass was full of small trees with these thorns. I had some idea of how a fish must feel!
pavers needed on the Boshua pass to give vehicles and my sandals traction!
An indication of the little rainfall received here in Namibia.
For all the dryness cattle do well. Though farmers need about 17-18 ha /head
Above Bosua Pass, a cool night with warthog about.
It got to the point where I had to eat my reserve food packs, just to maintain the energy required to negotiate the short but steep climbs on the C28, after the Bosua Pass
The stove nearly started a grass fire at this camp, precious water was used to rescue the situation.
Pasta. Again but I love it!
Old German fort halfway long the C28
The so called Ghost house, C28
A dream realised then abandoned
The wildlife was very quite at Wolfys place near Windhoek.
Touring around Wolfys farm.
The sawn off farm hack
Looking for water at Johns place near Winhoek
The famous camel thorn tree. The best braai wood. A species of Acaia
Camel Thorn
Lunch with Wolfy and Claudia and family. we had a great time together.
Approaching Windhoek from on the C28. It was the hardest 5 days riding in Africa
Windhoek, Namibiia
Presidents house Windhoek
Breakfast, banana flavoured maize meal and currants with a coffee
The road out of Windhoek
The first hint of rain for some time. came to nothing
Caroline and friends
Its nice to know I have something in common with these two.
Community weavers nest
roadside workers camp
Adele and friends in her great country kitchen
Solitaire lodge
Dune 45, Sossusvlei
The only shade on offer on the way into Solitaire
Dead valley Soousvlei
Dune 45 at days end, the wind was howling from the west.
On the way through to Betta
Quiver tree
|
The Namib Rand Conservation area straight
|
A desert master, the Oryx
|
Fish River Canyon
|
Betta campground
|
Namibia in all its beauty
|
The gear micheil took through the D707, here at the Betta campsite
|
D707, time out.
Excuse me, more from the D707, an emotional 120km for me,
|
D707, hard work but rewarding.
|
it was cool in the desert as the sun went down., D707
The only protection for lunch 2nd day D707
|
Sonja and Wilhelms Quiver garden D707
|
The D707 was among my African highlights
|
Sonjas desert garden, D707
Micheil, a great guy character, D707, he had much of my gear .
|
kids near Aus chasing wild horses.
|
The road from Aus to Luderitz, 100km was clocked in 2.5 hours before the wind got me.
Road from Aus to Luderitz
Brown hyena, sometimes troublesome for wild campers.
Nature on the move, Kolmanskop.
Kolmanskop, 10km east of Luderitz, an old diamond rush settlement.
The road to Diaz point , Luderitz
Agate beach, Luderitz on a perfect day.
The end of the channel that kite surfers use to break speed records in Luderitz on the way to Diaz point.
great campsite out of the heat and wind, jackals kept me company all night .
Seeheim Pub welcoming party.
Fish River Canyon, there are organized treks in its floor
Brick laying, natures way.
First night out of fish River canyon, just like a western movie.
Patrick and Rachael, Canyon roadhouse near Fish river canyon
|
D707 once again.
my mode of transport for the year.
|
half my bar bag gear on the road due to corrugations, at least they indicate a solid surfce
coming out of the desert to Aussenkehr
|
Quiver tree in natural habitat.
A colour not seen for months in this quantity
|
orange river at Aussenkehr. I spent the night camping with this family, great kids.
Security guards treated me to fresh Thompson Seedless grapes. These are piked and still sold as fresh in Europe up to 16 days later?? Not much is really, really fresh in supermarkets.
Great river for fly fishing.
Great Riparian campsite before the Xmas rush
|
This man, Shane, saved my life!
Orange river at the Amanzi camp area.
|
I could spend some time here.
My life nearly came to an end in this seemingly tranquil spot. Shane's out reached fishing rod saved me. Be careful of weirs!!!
