19 August
Kiwira, Tz to Karonga, Mw
D112, T5.4 Av19.63, max70, 44,730 9,322
Fine cool at Kiwira and hot down in Malawi
The power went off in the hotel just before a pot of water was boiled with the resistencia.
So the stove was used to finish it.
Diarrhea had afflicted me again, though was not to bad.
Water was not available at the lodge and was overpriced in town. We had enough to keep going.
Just out of town people were washing bikes from a clean water source here we topped up our bottles and bladders.
Cal had seen the profile it was mostly downhill all the way to Malawi, Some 60km away.
The tarmac was smooth and it was fantastic riding. Some small rises on the way down were encountered but overall it was just a pleasure.
Tea was growing near Kiwira and cocoa down near Malawi. Such was the climate change.
In Kalombo we ate and changed our Tz shillings. The guys were doing their best to rip us off.
Taking advantage of our unfamiliarity with the Malawian Kwachas.
It took sometime whilst we wee having lunch to sort it out. They were very cunning.
We ended up getting .26 kwacha for a shilling.
From here it was a short ride to Tz immigration to be stamped out of the country. Once across the Songwe river we stopped at the Malawian immigration. To our great surprise there was no visa fee.
Formalities were quick.
We were in Malawi, it is always a thrill as one rides off into a new country, keen to experience the culture and people.
The children were very excited to see us and ran out of many hoses yelling hello hello!!
Pwople and houses were everywhere in the flat landscape. It was hard to find somewhere to go to the loo.
We made good time and were in Kaporo just before sun down.
Here we ate mendazi and samosas and enjoyed small bottles of coke for 160 Kwachas, about 40c Australian.
We found there were no guesthouses in the small village.
A friendly guy had told me of a cheap one , the Zambotua lodge in Karonga.
We rode a little out of town and stopped in the then fading light.
Here we put our lights on the bikes and long sleeves shirts on for the 23km ride to Karonga.
The profile was all flat so it would be no problem in the dark and not take forever.
Even though it was dark there were still people walking and cycling everywhere.
Here in Malawi we felt instantly at ease. The people were friendly and honest and that they spoke English made it even easier.
Motorised traffic in the dark was little.
People enjoyed riding just ahead of us to use our strong lighting.
In no time we were in Karonga having flown along at 20 odd km/ hr in the darkness.
Here we ate at a chicken restaurant at the roundabout then found the lodge nearby.
It was now 2030. Really 2130 as Mw is an hour behind Tz.
It had been a big but easy downhill and flat days riding.
In the last week we have put in some big days in an endeavour to gain some time.
Ben and Cal want to be in Cape Town early December.
The lodge wad rustic but at 1000 kwachas a night no complaints.
They had a rose shower which was so good.
Thursday 20 August
Karonga to Ngosi fishing village
D18, T1, Av14, Max28, Total 44749, Africa 9340
There were no windows in the room so it was hard to tell the time of day.
As usual, I was awake early. The Zgambota Guesthouse was rather unusual inside as it had a huge open hallway to the rooms. Parts of the floor were covered in broken bricks.
It was quite an obstacle course in places.
We packed and got on the road by 0900. First stop was an ATM, which there are plenty in town. Unfortunately all only allow a 40000 kwacha withdrawal.
We then got a sim card from Airtel, they were the best deal.
Then it was a trip to the Peoples supermarket and on to the markets.
There were people on bicycles everywhere in the town. Once we finally got riding at 1400 we just coasted along in the relaxed atmosphere again on the largely traffic free main road, we were looking for a beach to camp on.
There was a small road marked we took a travk that a local told us about. This led to a small community of fishers. On the light grey sandy beavh were chest high drying beds for the small fish they catch at night in the lake.
There was a lake lodge at each end of the beach.
We swam and ate bread we had bought.
There was a fresh nor easter breeze blowing onshore cooling things. The lake was a brownish colour but very warm and great for swimming.
The village committee allowed us to camp infront of the fenced processing compound that looked disused.
The afternoon wad spent talking and swimming we had fried potatoes for dinner.
The fishers headed out at 1900 for the night in their wooden open boats with 15hp outboards ans some canoe to set the nets for the small fih the catch, then dry for two days before sending them to the markets.
It was easy falling asleep to the lapping of the lake waters. The wind had eased.
21 August Ngosi fishing village to Chilumba
D64, t3.5, Av16.17, Max46, 44812, 9404
South easterly wind, hot and sunny.
We awoke to a calm lake. Cal went down for an early swim. The fishermen were were still far out in the lake.
The shoreline was crowded with women washing clothes in the lake. Other people were turning the fish on the drying racks. They are dried for two days.
On their arrival at the shore, many people were lined up with bowls and buckets waiting to buy the small Osipa that they catch in their nets.
We bought a bowl full and immediately took them back to our camp and started frying them with garlic, chilli and ginger. We placed just one layer in the pan. They were eaten whole and were so tasty but had a little bitter flavour,some masala powder was added to alleviate this. We must have eaten a kilo or more.
The wind soon came up again.
We spoke to the locals about Bilharzia in the lake they said it was ok. One told Ben there was a croc that hung around here.
If it was good for the locals to swim, we did the same.
We said goodbye to John, the village committee member and pushed our bikes off the beach onto the track.
The solid sandy track led us back to the main road. The wind was the same as usual, a nor easter.
The people of Malawi are incredibly friendly and do not impose on our privacy too much, at the beach, the children just sat in a group infront of us and watched our every move.
That many speak English makes it easy here.
They are all good humoured. On the road, it is a constant call of hello, hello from the young children. The older ones often ask for money, which we just ignore.
The housing out here is very basic, mostly tiny adobe buildings with thatched roofs in a horrendously dry landscape. As the dry season lingers on many people suffer from hunger in the small villages we were told.
There are few buses on the road. On asking people, had they been to other cities most said no. They just don’t have the need to travel or the resources.
After all, Malawi is one of the poorest countries in Africa. Ironically, its people are some of the friendliest encountered so far. After Sudan of course, there, the people were so friendly and hospitable, it was constantly uplifting.
We stopped at the town of Miali and had a couple of sodas with a Peace Corp guy named Alex.
He had been here since March. He told us he was taking prophylactic malaria medicine and had been doing so since he had been here.
I must admit we are very slack when it comes to malaria prevention. He said he had been bitten twice last month, shit we must have been bitten hundreds of times in that period.
To me, taking prophylactic drugs for malaria is like taking Panadol everday when you haven’t got a headache. We might live to regret this. We are carrying Coartem, which sorts out malaria in three days if it is not the complicated strain. Most long term dwellers here from other countries do not take prophylactic drugs.
We discussed Bilharzia, he said it to was prevalent here.
We had just spent a day swimminhg in the lake. There is apparently a medicine that can be taken when leaving an area with it.
We will do this.
The wind on the road was strong enough to draft with each other. It has a great cooling effect as it blows off the lake.
The road so far has almost been flat from our point of entry into Malawi.
The surface is great and there is little traffic just lots of bicycles.
Our consumption of soda here could get quite high, as a 300ml glass bottle of coke is only 40c Australian. We stopped at another fishing village to find an eatery, there were none. Further on, under a shady tree, some men were in the process of crafting a wooden boat similar to those used by the fishermen to catch Osipa. They were a friendly bunch of guys.
They were saying the boat takes about two weeks to build and cost about 1250 $A dollars to buy. Its lifespan is only up to 10 years in the fresh water.
We stopped at the next village up the road and had beef and rice in a little kitchen, these meals are one dollar to buy. They always have great chilled water with the meals. Tap water is ok to drink here. Along the road today were wells every 20km or so. Here we kept our water topped up.
Buying water can become quite costly, especially if it is used for cooking.
Further on, I heard a twang in my rear wheel, thinking it was a rock I rode on. Catching up to Cal and Ben the rear brake was applied. It was nothing braking evenly, sure enough another spoke had broken. This had to be replaced which took half an hour. Most time was spent truing the wheel.
It broke on the cassette side. I purposely only do up the cassette ring not overly tight so it can be undone without the special long handled tool.
I have run out of my thick DT Swiss spokes so had to use normal thinner spokes.
This rim is damaged with a little hump in it. Problems with spokes will continue to be a problem because of this. The thin spoke is now the weak point in the rim. Luckily, we have plenty of spares. Cal thought I might be carrying too much weight over the wheel.
Throughout South America, this was no problem with even more weight. That the rim is not quite round is the problem.
My drive side pedal is also badly also squeaking with badly worn bearings.
I am now carrying a spare Chinese pedal in case it seizes.
Unless I can get parts in Lilongwe, it will be a limp into Cape Town.
Once the wheel was trued we headed on the last 13km into Chilumda, the part of town on the main road and went to the Peoples Supermarket and bought a few things and came back a bit and booked the Zuma guesthouse.
Here they had a great rose shower and clean rooms all for $A3.
Dinner was enjoyed later in town, that of rice, Msima (maize flour dough) and chicken .
Mosquitos are a problem here also.
I hung my net as the one supplied had holes in it.
The night temps are now between 15 and 20 degrees so sleeping with bed clothes is only necessary just before daylight.
I had another short dose of Diarrhoea for a day but it has fixed itself up. Unlike the dose I had a week ago where a short course of Ciprol had to be used.
23 August Chilumba to 6 km before Livingstonia
D31, t3, Av9.79, Max41, 44843, 9435
South easterly wind, hot and sunny, great temps near Lingstonia
The Zuma Guesthouse had provided a good ights sleep on the firm non sagging bed frames and mattresses.
Cal had come up with a good idea on how to clean our plastic drink bottles to free them up of the algae that grows inside after a while. Sand is put inside and given a good shake around with water. This works perfectly.
We stopped at the Peoples supermarket and bought a few things. I bought some thick spokes from a local bike shop. These may suffice but looking at them they maybe just to thick. Though they are strong enough. The ride was more of the same into the wind and close to the lake shore in parts. The lake does look like a calm ocean. It has that same blue that the ocean often is. We could see the escarpment that we had to climb to get to Livingstonia.
Earlier we had stopped at a well to top up with water.
In Chitimba we had two plates of chips and plenty of drinks.
As soon as we left the main road it was difficult with loose sand and large rocks on the road. We had to push in places as the road got stepper.
At least we were gaining altitude fast.
It was soon apparent that the front of my bike was to light. Water bottles and another bag were strapped to the front to keep the wheel on the ground to maintain steerage.
Once this was done, I was able to ride up all but the most steepest of sections. Riding this kind of terrain demands almost as much mental effort as physical exertion.
It is me, against the road. Luckily, the drive is still there, coupled with enjoyment to make these steep rough roads less of an obstacle.
Cal saw monkeys in the dry forest.
The views from up here were amazing. The coast of the lake and its crescent shape were very similar to Sapphire beach in NSW on the mid north coast, my home town.
As the road start climbing an almost cliff face it began to switch back and got a lot more easy to ride.
In many places the surface was rough concrete.
I was getting low on water as I had ditched some near the bottom. I was regretting this now. Having a stop at one corner to take photos, I rode on and here were cal and Ben at a cool shady corner. There was even a small crystal clear stream at the spot, about 8km up the hill.
Here we had tea and hot chocolate and just chilled out for an hour. A group of hikers walked past and stopped for a chat.
We kept going, it was now alot easier we were at about 1200m now, even the lake looked very distant.
Further up we met the girl who was part owner in The Mushroom Farm campsite. She was with a local named Budget, great names.
We stopped for a chat but kept going and met a guy named Happy, we bought some well water of him.
A km on up we met Junior who had the Pineapple Campsite he was a great guy and offered us a site for 1000MK.
It had beautiful views south across the tablelands. The landscape is a creamy brown of the tinder dry grasses and green spots of trees scattered about.
Happy came over as we were setting up and told us he had a flat tyre on his bicycle. The valve would not fit our pumps. Ben needed to repair a puncture so repaired that tube and put a new one in his bike and gave the other to Happy, he was wrapped.
Cal and I shared a large glass of Black Panda white rum. It was moonshine but left a nice after taste in our mouths.
We cooked up a whiz bang pasta. It was great to eat our pasta again.
The air up here was cool and still. There were no mosquitoes around the camp.
Junior lit a fire and we sat round for a chat.
He told us Livingstonia is very expensive and touristy. He offers a great alternative to the more expensive accommodation, he even has a little room for a few kwacha more.
My rear wheel held together for the trip, hopefully it will handle the more demanding downhill runs on the rough road ahead.
If these thicker local spokes fit through the hub holes all should be good I feel.
23 August 6 km before Livingstonia to Livingstonia
D6, t30min, Av7.32, Max16, 44851, 9441
Cool nor easter, 24 degrees fine
The campsite at the Pineapple farm was the kind of place where it it great to be up early to see the colours of the day unravel. Having arisen early we were on the road by 0800, not bad for us.
Junior was a great host and gave us a good load of fresh water before we left.
We had decided to ride the 6km to Livingstonia and camp there the noght.
The road was steep and dusty for a short period then levelled out once we were in the town. We visited the markets to buy veges for our nights pasta. The Livivingstonia Lodges were booked for a nights camping at 2500 Kwachas. They had wifi which is something we have not had for a month or more.
The site had magic views east across the hazy lake which could not be seen. The altitude up here was around thirteen hundred metres, the wind was cool but died down as the day wore on.
We just spent the rest of the day relaxing. It was great to have an afternoon sleep.
24 August Livingstonia to Rhumpi
D72, T5.5, Av13.02, Max41, 44923, 9,513
Great tail winds, very dusty
The cool breeze began blowing early. Even with the sun rising over the lake, the body of water could not be defined due to the haze.
We thanked the staff and headed off. I stopped to briefly look at a church on the way out of town.
It was a 3km descent on the dirt track as we left the plateau. The bull dust here was not so thick as few vehicles used the road.
Down t the valley floor Cal and I had a great dip in a clean spring fed, very cold creek. It was so refreshing.
From here it was an on off climb out of the valley. There were places where the bull dust was very thick. We fell off a few ties. There were small villagaes much of the way.
Mostly the only food on offer was mendazis. There were people along most of the length of the road.
Once we got out of the foot hills it was a great ride down a gentle slope almost all the way to the tarmac and the right hand turn to Rhumpie.
By this time we were literally covered in the ochre dust. Ben fell off backwards so he had a two tone short. We stopped at two villages where shops had fridges and bought cold sodas and these great milky maize drinks.
We always choose shops that have power lines leading to them. Most do not.
It was great to get on the tarmac again. It was a 6km ride west to the town along the South Rukuru river. Here we went to the Peoples supermarket and bought porridge among other things.
Most western processed food here is not much cheper than at home, the likes of yoghurt, porrige, milk powder, bounty bars, etc..
We chose to stay at the Luninya Motel on the right as you enter town the rooms were big. They also had an English dunny and shower rose!
A great dinner was had in town. I found some fresh green beans, these will be blanched in the morning with garlic and pepper, in an effort to balance my diet. So much food here in Africa is cooked in oil.
25 August Rhumpi to Mzuzu
D74, T4.5, Av16.11, Max41, 44997, 9,585
Great tail winds
Yesterday, my chain was making noises even though oil had been regularly put on it. It was time to replace it. Afterall, it had been from the border of Sudan and Ethiopia to here.
I had another Sram chain in my rear pannier, this was put on but had some stiff links. Even though it was well lubricated these links would not loosen up.
Near the bridge out of Rhumpi, we pulled some links apart and found the chrome plating had infact been worn off.
Cal had a new chain so he put that on his bike and I used his old one which had 4000km of use. It was much less worn than my old onne.
Hopefully this will get me to Cape Town, we do however have one other spare chain. Once this was sorted it was up to the intersection of the M1 where we stopped for an early lunch. We did not get here to 1100, so we stopped. Once on the main raod traffic was a little busier but the road was good and had a shoulder in places. To our right were the Viphy Mountains to the lft was just rolling dry country.
Arriving in Mzuzu about 1630, we went to the huge Shoprite supermarket, here the selection was even better than in Kenya. Cal and I shouted ourselves a fresh chilled nectarine.
The approaches to the town were crowded with people walking along the sides of the road. There was a huge area of timber dealers. In the town were all sorts of commercial businesses.
This was the capital of Nthn Malawi.
We started looking for a motel but everything was very expensive by our standards
It was dark before we found our way out of the city still looking for accommodation. A sign was seen leading to a guesthouse down a dark lane we took this.
Once here, Kaninginaguesthouse, we set up our tents and enjoyed a great meal in their lounge cooked by the staff. It ws the kind of place that had a lot of guests from government departments, UN and other organizations.
Geoffrey the owner had a daughter who was studying at Sydney uni, so he looked after us a bit.
Our tents were set up in the lovely grounds that were scattered with mature trees.
26 August Mzuzu to Nkhata Bay
D53, T2.5, Av17.72, Max68, 445050, 9,566
Easy overall down hill ride
We had all enjoyed a great sleep on full stomachs, it was a little cool which made sleeping even easier.
We took our time leaving, Cal had to replace his brake pads. We had another look around town for a good bike shop to buy pedals for my bike but only found shops selling Chinese gear.
We went back to shprite and stocked up on essentials and the Peoples supermarket before climbing out of town. From here it was a down hill run with the odd gentle climb in between. The road was potholed and repaired so could not be trusted at speed.
The temperature was warming up the whole time. Once Nkhata By we stopped for a soda. We hunted around for a place that had few tourists and ended up staying at the very rustic little self contained cottages on a steep hillside over looking the bay called the Kupenja Lodges, they are at the top of the hill as you drop into the bay proper.
We each had a great little cabin on the steep hillside.
We decided to stop for an extra day here, it was that kind of place. We swam in the lake. Out around the rocks we swam to there were colourful cichlids swimming everywhere in the warm clear waters.
That night we enjoyed dinner with Alex from Greece, he was an interesting guy who grew up in Benin in West Africa.
The next day we just relaxed and did washing. I went into town to buy Osipa fish to fry. We saw a tapeworm in the bowl of fish so decided to take our 3 monthly Secnidizol dose
This would kill any parasites travelling with me.
There were only four of us staying at the guesthouse so it was very relaxing and hassle free.
The view across the bay from our rooms and the toilet added to the relaxed atmosphere.
28, 29 August Nkhata Bay to Kande Beach Resort
D64, T3.5, Av16.62, Max51, 45113, 9,575
Still about 26°C
Of all the places ever stayed, this was the most difficult of accesses. However, it was well worth it. We hd a very relaxing time here doing very little. On the second morning we bought fresh Osipa in the markets.
We got packed and hauled our gear to the top of the hill and loaded the bikes. Alex took us to the health clinic to buy some tablets for bilharzia, they were not yet open so we headed off back up the hill and the left turn back to the main road south.
On the way we rode for about 4km through a huge area planted in rubber trees. Many were young trees. Nearing the end of the plantings were the mature trees.
They had been incised to tap the white sap. Boys were selling rubber woven balls on the roadside.
We stopped in the next village for some sodas.
Then once in Chintheche we stopped for a great but expensive meal and bought supplies at the peoples supermarket.I had ridden into town with a guy who was going to see his sister who had just been admitted into hospital with malaria.
We also bought bananas, onions and tomatoes for the evening pasta.
Arriving at Kande beach we took the sand track into the resort. For us this was to be a luxury. It was 3500 kwacha to camp but had all facilities on a great creamy sand beach with an island out the front of the vista.
What was left of the afternoon was spent swimming in the clear warm waters of Lake Malawi.
We set up our tents on a piece of grass near the beach and decided to have a couple of beers.
After dinner we spent the night chatting and drinking with the owners of the establishment. Tracy was a Kiwi and Dave an English guy.
It was the most beer drunk for some time. The local brew Kuche Kuche was great, it only had an alcohol level of 3.7% and was not bitter.
We got to bed about 2200 and immediately feel asleep in the somewhat chilly evening on an almost full moon.
30 August Kande Beach Resort to Dwangwa
D85, T4.2, Av19.27, Max45, 45198, 9,660
Still about 26°C, almost flat road all the way.
I was up early as usual, having been to bed early. The sun did not take long to reach the camp. Last night a full moon rose with much a do over the lake. The wide orange moon beam towards us was just a spectacular as the orange ball that created it.
The other group of young people in the tour truck partied till late. However it takes a lot to stop me from sleeping these days. On getting up I made my breakfast.
Looking out across the lake, towards Kande island it was so calm and inviting. The island is 800m from the shores. I gave Cal a yell as he was packing and said lets swim over.
We set off in the calm waters and were there in about 20 minutes. Out on the small island small cichlid fish of many colours could be seen swimming about eating algae from the rocks olong the island shores. The island was pretty much just a group of very large rocks.
After having swum back it felt so good to have exercised the upper body. We pottered about for awhile and were ready to leave at about 1000.
The ride back to the highway was not so bad, there were sandy patches on the 1.5km ride.
Up on the highway we ate bananas and headed off. Almost all day it was flat riding in a light cool lake breeze.
We made incredibly good time. Only stopping for lunch and a few sodas.
In Dwangwa we hunted around for a guesthouse and finally found the Monire which was 1500 kwacha for the night. The manager did not tell us he had no keys for our rooms so I waited whilst the guys ate then on their return I headed to a restarant.
On calculating the distance we need to get to Cape Town via the coast of Namibia we have some 5500km to go and 90 days in which to do it.
This equates to 61km/day without rests, this is not practical, and more importantly will not be enjoyable.
We will continue to ride at our leisure and review the situation in another month.
31 August Dwangwa to Khotakota, Pick and Pay guesthouse
D59, T3, Av19.08, Max47, 45256, 9,719
Still about 26°C, almost flat road all the way.
The guesthouse had a water problem, so no showers were taken. I was up early cooking breakfast when a rasta man came up for a chat. He had his bag of marijuana and wanted to know if we wanted any. Other young local were waiting to buy and smoke some.
We got away about 0830. I went to a dentist down the road who replaced a filling that had earlier fallen out. Ben had a tooth checked also.
The road again was flat much of the way.
1 September Khotakota to camp at roadside well
D27, T1.3, Av17.93, Max60, 45285, 9,746
Tail winds to the park gate
The guesthouse had a water problem, so no showers were taken. I was up early cooking breakfast when a rasta man came up for a chat. He had his bag of marijuana and wanted to know if we wanted any. Other young local were waiting to buy and smoke some.
We got away about 0830. I went to a dentist down the road who replaced a filling that had earlier fallen out. Ben had a tooth checked also.
It was a 16km ride to the enterance of the Nkotakota game Reserve. Here at the gate the ranger I we were unable to ride through, we were quite surprised. He said that the last lion count was 20. Anyway we sat and waited for trucks to come throught and
Finally got blog up to date, did washing ,
Had to wait ben first lift, 1530, baboons lunch
2 September Camp at roadside well to 6 km past Santhe, camping
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
We were up very early so visitors would not have to greet us in bed. As it was kids were across the road and edging ever closer as we got organised. The children of Malawi are very quiet and often shy. They are no problem being around us whilst things are done.
The elders came back to see us. I made two of them a cup of tea.
We were on the road by 0715, riding was easy on the good asphalt, the country was now very open and in most cases flat. There were scattered trees about.
We got to the first sizable town and bought bread from a bakery, it was about 15km away.
Near lunch time we arrived in Kasunga, a reasonably large town. Here Cal bought a thin foam mattress as his Exped lite weight air bed had delaminated baffles. Exped are great, they are sending him a replacement to Livingstone in Zambia.
Here we had lunch and relaxed for an hour or more.
From here the road was still easy riding with a great side and tailwind aiding us.
Cal was feeling a bit sick after taking a Malinil tablet for malaria, but he kept going anyway.
Leaving Misingu we took a dirt road the lead us all the way back to the main road.
Cal looked like a local with a bag of maize on the back of his bike, carrying the rolled up foam mattress.
We stopped in the village and bought tomatoes and had so boiled eggs. Back on the asphalt it was really easy riding with tail winds.
We got to Santhe at 1730 and found there was no accommodation there. We decided to ride on, it was great riding into the setting sun.
As darkness fell we found a patch of trees on the side of the road some 5km from Santhe. We stopped here on the roadside and gave the site an inspection. There was an unused fire break around the area. We took the bikes in here and just camped on the sandy trail.
Malawi people and their nature make us feel comfortable and safe camping in most places.
Last night was a prime example of this relaxed way we feel around the people.
Dinner was fried was a mix of potatoes and tomatoes with spices in the fry pan. It was nice for a change.
As soon as it gets to about 1900 most people are back at their homes eating.
It is now getting quite cool in the evenings, cool enough to put on a sweat shirt, though shorts and thongs are still comfortable whilst eating dinner. We are normally in our tents about 2000.
Bens airbed blew a baffle last night. The guys have been slightly over inflating their airbeds which causes this problem when too much weight is applied to a small area. For example sitting on the airbed.
Visitors in the norning n ohassles all night, easy riding, bought bread in kasomba, cal feeling sick, open plains, drinks in town
Cal bought foam in kasungu had lunch here and a rest,
Got to santhe no guesthouses. Found camp
3 September 6 km past Santhe, camping to Zambian border.
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
3 September 6 km past Santhe, camping to Zambian border.
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
Again, we had an undisturbed night on the fire trail.
Out on the road, the wind was in our favour again. We had 40 km on our computers by 1000.
At Matatu Trading post we stopped for lunch of chips and salad. From here we took a sandy road south across the intersection at the busy little town. This came out at another village before entering the main road M18 again.
4,5 September Zambian border to Chipata, ZA
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
Kiwira, Tz to Karonga, Mw
D112, T5.4 Av19.63, max70, 44,730 9,322
Fine cool at Kiwira and hot down in Malawi
The power went off in the hotel just before a pot of water was boiled with the resistencia.
So the stove was used to finish it.
Diarrhea had afflicted me again, though was not to bad.
Water was not available at the lodge and was overpriced in town. We had enough to keep going.
Just out of town people were washing bikes from a clean water source here we topped up our bottles and bladders.
Cal had seen the profile it was mostly downhill all the way to Malawi, Some 60km away.
The tarmac was smooth and it was fantastic riding. Some small rises on the way down were encountered but overall it was just a pleasure.
Tea was growing near Kiwira and cocoa down near Malawi. Such was the climate change.
In Kalombo we ate and changed our Tz shillings. The guys were doing their best to rip us off.
Taking advantage of our unfamiliarity with the Malawian Kwachas.
It took sometime whilst we wee having lunch to sort it out. They were very cunning.
We ended up getting .26 kwacha for a shilling.
From here it was a short ride to Tz immigration to be stamped out of the country. Once across the Songwe river we stopped at the Malawian immigration. To our great surprise there was no visa fee.
Formalities were quick.
We were in Malawi, it is always a thrill as one rides off into a new country, keen to experience the culture and people.
The children were very excited to see us and ran out of many hoses yelling hello hello!!
Pwople and houses were everywhere in the flat landscape. It was hard to find somewhere to go to the loo.
We made good time and were in Kaporo just before sun down.
Here we ate mendazi and samosas and enjoyed small bottles of coke for 160 Kwachas, about 40c Australian.
We found there were no guesthouses in the small village.
A friendly guy had told me of a cheap one , the Zambotua lodge in Karonga.
We rode a little out of town and stopped in the then fading light.
Here we put our lights on the bikes and long sleeves shirts on for the 23km ride to Karonga.
The profile was all flat so it would be no problem in the dark and not take forever.
Even though it was dark there were still people walking and cycling everywhere.
Here in Malawi we felt instantly at ease. The people were friendly and honest and that they spoke English made it even easier.
Motorised traffic in the dark was little.
People enjoyed riding just ahead of us to use our strong lighting.
In no time we were in Karonga having flown along at 20 odd km/ hr in the darkness.
Here we ate at a chicken restaurant at the roundabout then found the lodge nearby.
It was now 2030. Really 2130 as Mw is an hour behind Tz.
It had been a big but easy downhill and flat days riding.
In the last week we have put in some big days in an endeavour to gain some time.
Ben and Cal want to be in Cape Town early December.
The lodge wad rustic but at 1000 kwachas a night no complaints.
They had a rose shower which was so good.
Thursday 20 August
Karonga to Ngosi fishing village
D18, T1, Av14, Max28, Total 44749, Africa 9340
There were no windows in the room so it was hard to tell the time of day.
As usual, I was awake early. The Zgambota Guesthouse was rather unusual inside as it had a huge open hallway to the rooms. Parts of the floor were covered in broken bricks.
It was quite an obstacle course in places.
We packed and got on the road by 0900. First stop was an ATM, which there are plenty in town. Unfortunately all only allow a 40000 kwacha withdrawal.
We then got a sim card from Airtel, they were the best deal.
Then it was a trip to the Peoples supermarket and on to the markets.
There were people on bicycles everywhere in the town. Once we finally got riding at 1400 we just coasted along in the relaxed atmosphere again on the largely traffic free main road, we were looking for a beach to camp on.
There was a small road marked we took a travk that a local told us about. This led to a small community of fishers. On the light grey sandy beavh were chest high drying beds for the small fish they catch at night in the lake.
There was a lake lodge at each end of the beach.
We swam and ate bread we had bought.
There was a fresh nor easter breeze blowing onshore cooling things. The lake was a brownish colour but very warm and great for swimming.
The village committee allowed us to camp infront of the fenced processing compound that looked disused.
The afternoon wad spent talking and swimming we had fried potatoes for dinner.
The fishers headed out at 1900 for the night in their wooden open boats with 15hp outboards ans some canoe to set the nets for the small fih the catch, then dry for two days before sending them to the markets.
It was easy falling asleep to the lapping of the lake waters. The wind had eased.
21 August Ngosi fishing village to Chilumba
D64, t3.5, Av16.17, Max46, 44812, 9404
South easterly wind, hot and sunny.
We awoke to a calm lake. Cal went down for an early swim. The fishermen were were still far out in the lake.
The shoreline was crowded with women washing clothes in the lake. Other people were turning the fish on the drying racks. They are dried for two days.
On their arrival at the shore, many people were lined up with bowls and buckets waiting to buy the small Osipa that they catch in their nets.
We bought a bowl full and immediately took them back to our camp and started frying them with garlic, chilli and ginger. We placed just one layer in the pan. They were eaten whole and were so tasty but had a little bitter flavour,some masala powder was added to alleviate this. We must have eaten a kilo or more.
The wind soon came up again.
We spoke to the locals about Bilharzia in the lake they said it was ok. One told Ben there was a croc that hung around here.
If it was good for the locals to swim, we did the same.
We said goodbye to John, the village committee member and pushed our bikes off the beach onto the track.
The solid sandy track led us back to the main road. The wind was the same as usual, a nor easter.
The people of Malawi are incredibly friendly and do not impose on our privacy too much, at the beach, the children just sat in a group infront of us and watched our every move.
That many speak English makes it easy here.
They are all good humoured. On the road, it is a constant call of hello, hello from the young children. The older ones often ask for money, which we just ignore.
The housing out here is very basic, mostly tiny adobe buildings with thatched roofs in a horrendously dry landscape. As the dry season lingers on many people suffer from hunger in the small villages we were told.
There are few buses on the road. On asking people, had they been to other cities most said no. They just don’t have the need to travel or the resources.
After all, Malawi is one of the poorest countries in Africa. Ironically, its people are some of the friendliest encountered so far. After Sudan of course, there, the people were so friendly and hospitable, it was constantly uplifting.
We stopped at the town of Miali and had a couple of sodas with a Peace Corp guy named Alex.
He had been here since March. He told us he was taking prophylactic malaria medicine and had been doing so since he had been here.
I must admit we are very slack when it comes to malaria prevention. He said he had been bitten twice last month, shit we must have been bitten hundreds of times in that period.
To me, taking prophylactic drugs for malaria is like taking Panadol everday when you haven’t got a headache. We might live to regret this. We are carrying Coartem, which sorts out malaria in three days if it is not the complicated strain. Most long term dwellers here from other countries do not take prophylactic drugs.
We discussed Bilharzia, he said it to was prevalent here.
We had just spent a day swimminhg in the lake. There is apparently a medicine that can be taken when leaving an area with it.
We will do this.
The wind on the road was strong enough to draft with each other. It has a great cooling effect as it blows off the lake.
The road so far has almost been flat from our point of entry into Malawi.
The surface is great and there is little traffic just lots of bicycles.
Our consumption of soda here could get quite high, as a 300ml glass bottle of coke is only 40c Australian. We stopped at another fishing village to find an eatery, there were none. Further on, under a shady tree, some men were in the process of crafting a wooden boat similar to those used by the fishermen to catch Osipa. They were a friendly bunch of guys.
They were saying the boat takes about two weeks to build and cost about 1250 $A dollars to buy. Its lifespan is only up to 10 years in the fresh water.
We stopped at the next village up the road and had beef and rice in a little kitchen, these meals are one dollar to buy. They always have great chilled water with the meals. Tap water is ok to drink here. Along the road today were wells every 20km or so. Here we kept our water topped up.
Buying water can become quite costly, especially if it is used for cooking.
Further on, I heard a twang in my rear wheel, thinking it was a rock I rode on. Catching up to Cal and Ben the rear brake was applied. It was nothing braking evenly, sure enough another spoke had broken. This had to be replaced which took half an hour. Most time was spent truing the wheel.
It broke on the cassette side. I purposely only do up the cassette ring not overly tight so it can be undone without the special long handled tool.
I have run out of my thick DT Swiss spokes so had to use normal thinner spokes.
This rim is damaged with a little hump in it. Problems with spokes will continue to be a problem because of this. The thin spoke is now the weak point in the rim. Luckily, we have plenty of spares. Cal thought I might be carrying too much weight over the wheel.
Throughout South America, this was no problem with even more weight. That the rim is not quite round is the problem.
My drive side pedal is also badly also squeaking with badly worn bearings.
I am now carrying a spare Chinese pedal in case it seizes.
Unless I can get parts in Lilongwe, it will be a limp into Cape Town.
Once the wheel was trued we headed on the last 13km into Chilumda, the part of town on the main road and went to the Peoples Supermarket and bought a few things and came back a bit and booked the Zuma guesthouse.
Here they had a great rose shower and clean rooms all for $A3.
Dinner was enjoyed later in town, that of rice, Msima (maize flour dough) and chicken .
Mosquitos are a problem here also.
I hung my net as the one supplied had holes in it.
The night temps are now between 15 and 20 degrees so sleeping with bed clothes is only necessary just before daylight.
I had another short dose of Diarrhoea for a day but it has fixed itself up. Unlike the dose I had a week ago where a short course of Ciprol had to be used.
23 August Chilumba to 6 km before Livingstonia
D31, t3, Av9.79, Max41, 44843, 9435
South easterly wind, hot and sunny, great temps near Lingstonia
The Zuma Guesthouse had provided a good ights sleep on the firm non sagging bed frames and mattresses.
Cal had come up with a good idea on how to clean our plastic drink bottles to free them up of the algae that grows inside after a while. Sand is put inside and given a good shake around with water. This works perfectly.
We stopped at the Peoples supermarket and bought a few things. I bought some thick spokes from a local bike shop. These may suffice but looking at them they maybe just to thick. Though they are strong enough. The ride was more of the same into the wind and close to the lake shore in parts. The lake does look like a calm ocean. It has that same blue that the ocean often is. We could see the escarpment that we had to climb to get to Livingstonia.
Earlier we had stopped at a well to top up with water.
In Chitimba we had two plates of chips and plenty of drinks.
As soon as we left the main road it was difficult with loose sand and large rocks on the road. We had to push in places as the road got stepper.
At least we were gaining altitude fast.
It was soon apparent that the front of my bike was to light. Water bottles and another bag were strapped to the front to keep the wheel on the ground to maintain steerage.
Once this was done, I was able to ride up all but the most steepest of sections. Riding this kind of terrain demands almost as much mental effort as physical exertion.
It is me, against the road. Luckily, the drive is still there, coupled with enjoyment to make these steep rough roads less of an obstacle.
Cal saw monkeys in the dry forest.
The views from up here were amazing. The coast of the lake and its crescent shape were very similar to Sapphire beach in NSW on the mid north coast, my home town.
As the road start climbing an almost cliff face it began to switch back and got a lot more easy to ride.
In many places the surface was rough concrete.
I was getting low on water as I had ditched some near the bottom. I was regretting this now. Having a stop at one corner to take photos, I rode on and here were cal and Ben at a cool shady corner. There was even a small crystal clear stream at the spot, about 8km up the hill.
Here we had tea and hot chocolate and just chilled out for an hour. A group of hikers walked past and stopped for a chat.
We kept going, it was now alot easier we were at about 1200m now, even the lake looked very distant.
Further up we met the girl who was part owner in The Mushroom Farm campsite. She was with a local named Budget, great names.
We stopped for a chat but kept going and met a guy named Happy, we bought some well water of him.
A km on up we met Junior who had the Pineapple Campsite he was a great guy and offered us a site for 1000MK.
It had beautiful views south across the tablelands. The landscape is a creamy brown of the tinder dry grasses and green spots of trees scattered about.
Happy came over as we were setting up and told us he had a flat tyre on his bicycle. The valve would not fit our pumps. Ben needed to repair a puncture so repaired that tube and put a new one in his bike and gave the other to Happy, he was wrapped.
Cal and I shared a large glass of Black Panda white rum. It was moonshine but left a nice after taste in our mouths.
We cooked up a whiz bang pasta. It was great to eat our pasta again.
The air up here was cool and still. There were no mosquitoes around the camp.
Junior lit a fire and we sat round for a chat.
He told us Livingstonia is very expensive and touristy. He offers a great alternative to the more expensive accommodation, he even has a little room for a few kwacha more.
My rear wheel held together for the trip, hopefully it will handle the more demanding downhill runs on the rough road ahead.
If these thicker local spokes fit through the hub holes all should be good I feel.
23 August 6 km before Livingstonia to Livingstonia
D6, t30min, Av7.32, Max16, 44851, 9441
Cool nor easter, 24 degrees fine
The campsite at the Pineapple farm was the kind of place where it it great to be up early to see the colours of the day unravel. Having arisen early we were on the road by 0800, not bad for us.
Junior was a great host and gave us a good load of fresh water before we left.
We had decided to ride the 6km to Livingstonia and camp there the noght.
The road was steep and dusty for a short period then levelled out once we were in the town. We visited the markets to buy veges for our nights pasta. The Livivingstonia Lodges were booked for a nights camping at 2500 Kwachas. They had wifi which is something we have not had for a month or more.
The site had magic views east across the hazy lake which could not be seen. The altitude up here was around thirteen hundred metres, the wind was cool but died down as the day wore on.
We just spent the rest of the day relaxing. It was great to have an afternoon sleep.
24 August Livingstonia to Rhumpi
D72, T5.5, Av13.02, Max41, 44923, 9,513
Great tail winds, very dusty
The cool breeze began blowing early. Even with the sun rising over the lake, the body of water could not be defined due to the haze.
We thanked the staff and headed off. I stopped to briefly look at a church on the way out of town.
It was a 3km descent on the dirt track as we left the plateau. The bull dust here was not so thick as few vehicles used the road.
Down t the valley floor Cal and I had a great dip in a clean spring fed, very cold creek. It was so refreshing.
From here it was an on off climb out of the valley. There were places where the bull dust was very thick. We fell off a few ties. There were small villagaes much of the way.
Mostly the only food on offer was mendazis. There were people along most of the length of the road.
Once we got out of the foot hills it was a great ride down a gentle slope almost all the way to the tarmac and the right hand turn to Rhumpie.
By this time we were literally covered in the ochre dust. Ben fell off backwards so he had a two tone short. We stopped at two villages where shops had fridges and bought cold sodas and these great milky maize drinks.
We always choose shops that have power lines leading to them. Most do not.
It was great to get on the tarmac again. It was a 6km ride west to the town along the South Rukuru river. Here we went to the Peoples supermarket and bought porridge among other things.
Most western processed food here is not much cheper than at home, the likes of yoghurt, porrige, milk powder, bounty bars, etc..
We chose to stay at the Luninya Motel on the right as you enter town the rooms were big. They also had an English dunny and shower rose!
A great dinner was had in town. I found some fresh green beans, these will be blanched in the morning with garlic and pepper, in an effort to balance my diet. So much food here in Africa is cooked in oil.
25 August Rhumpi to Mzuzu
D74, T4.5, Av16.11, Max41, 44997, 9,585
Great tail winds
Yesterday, my chain was making noises even though oil had been regularly put on it. It was time to replace it. Afterall, it had been from the border of Sudan and Ethiopia to here.
I had another Sram chain in my rear pannier, this was put on but had some stiff links. Even though it was well lubricated these links would not loosen up.
Near the bridge out of Rhumpi, we pulled some links apart and found the chrome plating had infact been worn off.
Cal had a new chain so he put that on his bike and I used his old one which had 4000km of use. It was much less worn than my old onne.
Hopefully this will get me to Cape Town, we do however have one other spare chain. Once this was sorted it was up to the intersection of the M1 where we stopped for an early lunch. We did not get here to 1100, so we stopped. Once on the main raod traffic was a little busier but the road was good and had a shoulder in places. To our right were the Viphy Mountains to the lft was just rolling dry country.
Arriving in Mzuzu about 1630, we went to the huge Shoprite supermarket, here the selection was even better than in Kenya. Cal and I shouted ourselves a fresh chilled nectarine.
The approaches to the town were crowded with people walking along the sides of the road. There was a huge area of timber dealers. In the town were all sorts of commercial businesses.
This was the capital of Nthn Malawi.
We started looking for a motel but everything was very expensive by our standards
It was dark before we found our way out of the city still looking for accommodation. A sign was seen leading to a guesthouse down a dark lane we took this.
Once here, Kaninginaguesthouse, we set up our tents and enjoyed a great meal in their lounge cooked by the staff. It ws the kind of place that had a lot of guests from government departments, UN and other organizations.
Geoffrey the owner had a daughter who was studying at Sydney uni, so he looked after us a bit.
Our tents were set up in the lovely grounds that were scattered with mature trees.
26 August Mzuzu to Nkhata Bay
D53, T2.5, Av17.72, Max68, 445050, 9,566
Easy overall down hill ride
We had all enjoyed a great sleep on full stomachs, it was a little cool which made sleeping even easier.
We took our time leaving, Cal had to replace his brake pads. We had another look around town for a good bike shop to buy pedals for my bike but only found shops selling Chinese gear.
We went back to shprite and stocked up on essentials and the Peoples supermarket before climbing out of town. From here it was a down hill run with the odd gentle climb in between. The road was potholed and repaired so could not be trusted at speed.
The temperature was warming up the whole time. Once Nkhata By we stopped for a soda. We hunted around for a place that had few tourists and ended up staying at the very rustic little self contained cottages on a steep hillside over looking the bay called the Kupenja Lodges, they are at the top of the hill as you drop into the bay proper.
We each had a great little cabin on the steep hillside.
We decided to stop for an extra day here, it was that kind of place. We swam in the lake. Out around the rocks we swam to there were colourful cichlids swimming everywhere in the warm clear waters.
That night we enjoyed dinner with Alex from Greece, he was an interesting guy who grew up in Benin in West Africa.
The next day we just relaxed and did washing. I went into town to buy Osipa fish to fry. We saw a tapeworm in the bowl of fish so decided to take our 3 monthly Secnidizol dose
This would kill any parasites travelling with me.
There were only four of us staying at the guesthouse so it was very relaxing and hassle free.
The view across the bay from our rooms and the toilet added to the relaxed atmosphere.
28, 29 August Nkhata Bay to Kande Beach Resort
D64, T3.5, Av16.62, Max51, 45113, 9,575
Still about 26°C
Of all the places ever stayed, this was the most difficult of accesses. However, it was well worth it. We hd a very relaxing time here doing very little. On the second morning we bought fresh Osipa in the markets.
We got packed and hauled our gear to the top of the hill and loaded the bikes. Alex took us to the health clinic to buy some tablets for bilharzia, they were not yet open so we headed off back up the hill and the left turn back to the main road south.
On the way we rode for about 4km through a huge area planted in rubber trees. Many were young trees. Nearing the end of the plantings were the mature trees.
They had been incised to tap the white sap. Boys were selling rubber woven balls on the roadside.
We stopped in the next village for some sodas.
Then once in Chintheche we stopped for a great but expensive meal and bought supplies at the peoples supermarket.I had ridden into town with a guy who was going to see his sister who had just been admitted into hospital with malaria.
We also bought bananas, onions and tomatoes for the evening pasta.
Arriving at Kande beach we took the sand track into the resort. For us this was to be a luxury. It was 3500 kwacha to camp but had all facilities on a great creamy sand beach with an island out the front of the vista.
What was left of the afternoon was spent swimming in the clear warm waters of Lake Malawi.
We set up our tents on a piece of grass near the beach and decided to have a couple of beers.
After dinner we spent the night chatting and drinking with the owners of the establishment. Tracy was a Kiwi and Dave an English guy.
It was the most beer drunk for some time. The local brew Kuche Kuche was great, it only had an alcohol level of 3.7% and was not bitter.
We got to bed about 2200 and immediately feel asleep in the somewhat chilly evening on an almost full moon.
30 August Kande Beach Resort to Dwangwa
D85, T4.2, Av19.27, Max45, 45198, 9,660
Still about 26°C, almost flat road all the way.
I was up early as usual, having been to bed early. The sun did not take long to reach the camp. Last night a full moon rose with much a do over the lake. The wide orange moon beam towards us was just a spectacular as the orange ball that created it.
The other group of young people in the tour truck partied till late. However it takes a lot to stop me from sleeping these days. On getting up I made my breakfast.
Looking out across the lake, towards Kande island it was so calm and inviting. The island is 800m from the shores. I gave Cal a yell as he was packing and said lets swim over.
We set off in the calm waters and were there in about 20 minutes. Out on the small island small cichlid fish of many colours could be seen swimming about eating algae from the rocks olong the island shores. The island was pretty much just a group of very large rocks.
After having swum back it felt so good to have exercised the upper body. We pottered about for awhile and were ready to leave at about 1000.
The ride back to the highway was not so bad, there were sandy patches on the 1.5km ride.
Up on the highway we ate bananas and headed off. Almost all day it was flat riding in a light cool lake breeze.
We made incredibly good time. Only stopping for lunch and a few sodas.
In Dwangwa we hunted around for a guesthouse and finally found the Monire which was 1500 kwacha for the night. The manager did not tell us he had no keys for our rooms so I waited whilst the guys ate then on their return I headed to a restarant.
On calculating the distance we need to get to Cape Town via the coast of Namibia we have some 5500km to go and 90 days in which to do it.
This equates to 61km/day without rests, this is not practical, and more importantly will not be enjoyable.
We will continue to ride at our leisure and review the situation in another month.
31 August Dwangwa to Khotakota, Pick and Pay guesthouse
D59, T3, Av19.08, Max47, 45256, 9,719
Still about 26°C, almost flat road all the way.
The guesthouse had a water problem, so no showers were taken. I was up early cooking breakfast when a rasta man came up for a chat. He had his bag of marijuana and wanted to know if we wanted any. Other young local were waiting to buy and smoke some.
We got away about 0830. I went to a dentist down the road who replaced a filling that had earlier fallen out. Ben had a tooth checked also.
The road again was flat much of the way.
1 September Khotakota to camp at roadside well
D27, T1.3, Av17.93, Max60, 45285, 9,746
Tail winds to the park gate
The guesthouse had a water problem, so no showers were taken. I was up early cooking breakfast when a rasta man came up for a chat. He had his bag of marijuana and wanted to know if we wanted any. Other young local were waiting to buy and smoke some.
We got away about 0830. I went to a dentist down the road who replaced a filling that had earlier fallen out. Ben had a tooth checked also.
It was a 16km ride to the enterance of the Nkotakota game Reserve. Here at the gate the ranger I we were unable to ride through, we were quite surprised. He said that the last lion count was 20. Anyway we sat and waited for trucks to come throught and
Finally got blog up to date, did washing ,
Had to wait ben first lift, 1530, baboons lunch
2 September Camp at roadside well to 6 km past Santhe, camping
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
We were up very early so visitors would not have to greet us in bed. As it was kids were across the road and edging ever closer as we got organised. The children of Malawi are very quiet and often shy. They are no problem being around us whilst things are done.
The elders came back to see us. I made two of them a cup of tea.
We were on the road by 0715, riding was easy on the good asphalt, the country was now very open and in most cases flat. There were scattered trees about.
We got to the first sizable town and bought bread from a bakery, it was about 15km away.
Near lunch time we arrived in Kasunga, a reasonably large town. Here Cal bought a thin foam mattress as his Exped lite weight air bed had delaminated baffles. Exped are great, they are sending him a replacement to Livingstone in Zambia.
Here we had lunch and relaxed for an hour or more.
From here the road was still easy riding with a great side and tailwind aiding us.
Cal was feeling a bit sick after taking a Malinil tablet for malaria, but he kept going anyway.
Leaving Misingu we took a dirt road the lead us all the way back to the main road.
Cal looked like a local with a bag of maize on the back of his bike, carrying the rolled up foam mattress.
We stopped in the village and bought tomatoes and had so boiled eggs. Back on the asphalt it was really easy riding with tail winds.
We got to Santhe at 1730 and found there was no accommodation there. We decided to ride on, it was great riding into the setting sun.
As darkness fell we found a patch of trees on the side of the road some 5km from Santhe. We stopped here on the roadside and gave the site an inspection. There was an unused fire break around the area. We took the bikes in here and just camped on the sandy trail.
Malawi people and their nature make us feel comfortable and safe camping in most places.
Last night was a prime example of this relaxed way we feel around the people.
Dinner was fried was a mix of potatoes and tomatoes with spices in the fry pan. It was nice for a change.
As soon as it gets to about 1900 most people are back at their homes eating.
It is now getting quite cool in the evenings, cool enough to put on a sweat shirt, though shorts and thongs are still comfortable whilst eating dinner. We are normally in our tents about 2000.
Bens airbed blew a baffle last night. The guys have been slightly over inflating their airbeds which causes this problem when too much weight is applied to a small area. For example sitting on the airbed.
Visitors in the norning n ohassles all night, easy riding, bought bread in kasomba, cal feeling sick, open plains, drinks in town
Cal bought foam in kasungu had lunch here and a rest,
Got to santhe no guesthouses. Found camp
3 September 6 km past Santhe, camping to Zambian border.
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
3 September 6 km past Santhe, camping to Zambian border.
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
Again, we had an undisturbed night on the fire trail.
Out on the road, the wind was in our favour again. We had 40 km on our computers by 1000.
At Matatu Trading post we stopped for lunch of chips and salad. From here we took a sandy road south across the intersection at the busy little town. This came out at another village before entering the main road M18 again.
4,5 September Zambian border to Chipata, ZA
D110, T5.5, Av18.83, Max61, 45395, 9,856
Favourable winds all the way
Fresh Osipa with ginger, garlic, chilli, and Masala. Ngosi fishing village
Looking over the Lake on the way up to Livingstonia
We take every opportunity to swim on dusty roads, coming down from Livingstonia
Boat building near Chitimba
Chitimba, looking up to Livingstonia
Camping Livingstonia
Arrival Mzuzu, a busy commercial town and the capital of the north
Rural activities
Kupenge lodge, Nkhata Bay
Huge rubber plantation south of Nkhata Bay
Lake Malawi near Chinteche
Full Moon on the rise Kande beach
Early morning Kande Beach
On the way up to Livingstonia from Chitimba
lake Malawi near Chitimba
