browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
Huamachuco to Trujillo.PE
Huamachaco to a house 10km west of Shorey

D76, T6.34,9, v11.56, Max66, Tot14176, 4112

Hot and fine, cold, windy, hailing and raining in that order 12° on tops.


Last night dinner was had at a chinese restaurant, a huge plate of broccoli with chicken was enjoyed. It tasted great, too great. MSG was the culprit, though the greens were worth it.

Needless to say I had a pretty light sleep, MSG does that to me.

Waking up, feeling really good, things were packed. Though not before an early  hot shower was taken before all the hot water went.

This hotel is great and Julio who runs it is probably a bit older than me. He is such a nice guy. We got on really well. Remember the Santa Fe if you are ever here in Huamachuca.

He asked me to come and have breakfast out the back with him. He has travelled right through Peru and gave me some good tips.

It would have been nice to stay another day.

Leaving town well fed and having enjoyed a good half hour conversation where we pretty much understood each other was a good way to be.

The road undulated a bit then just slowly climbed, Knowing it was going to over 4000m, I was wearing my runners and had warm gear in a front pannier.

Most vehicles on the road were Hilux 4x4’s owned by the many mines up her, gold and zinc are the main deposits.

Once again as the altitude increased so did the pleasure from the views.

At  about 3500m, I thought I might just chew a few leaves to see how this works.

The first lot I chewed to a pulp then introduced the cal continually dipping the lid in the calero. It was ok but didn’t affect me much, I spat it out. The second bundle of leaves about a loose matchbox full I chewed on the left side of my mouth. This time I chewed them but not as much, they still had structure. I then took many dips of the cal. The effect was quite amazing.

The numbness on my left side of my mouth was almost as strong as a dentist’s anaesthetic.

Spitting it out after awhile and washing my mouth, I set of. I could hardly feel the teeth in my mouth.

My breathing did become easier, though the road was a little less steep. This lasted a few hours, a fair bit of ground was covered. Stopping for lunch it was still impacting on me in a very nice way. A sense of well being and calm, not high or anything,  would best describe it.

“Cycling and performance enhancing drugs”, is there any hope for the two not to be related!!

Though I don’t want to get into a habit of using coca, over 3500m will be the altitude to consider its use.

It was now getting bloody cold, levelling out a bit, the undulating road was at 3800-4000 metres altitude.

Stopping a herd of Alpaca were closely looked at, interesting animals, they have such thick coats.

Further up the hill a couple of guys were wandering along, one had a calero and was continuously dipping and licking the spike.

Further on, rain started then it turned to hail, it was now time to test my clothing.

I still had my shorts that was fine as much body heat is generated pedalling. I had put my full gloves on earlier. The hail was hurting where it hit me. Luckily it never got to big.

Getting to the turn off to Quiruvilca, I decided to go on. I was wet and cold, it was downhill.  Heading into Sorey, another mining town, the road turned to wet sloshy red brown mud and rocks.

This was the main road to Trujillo.

Anyway it went back to pavement again. Further on it reverted back to mud.

They are rebuilding the road.

Riding was slow, though as I knew the temps would increase with the descent.

The road was now just a mud track with buses and trucks spraying me.

Someone told me there was thirty km of this. Shit.

The mud started getting sticky. I really couldn’t use the brakes as this mud would just grind the rims away.

The pads were almost worn out also.

I had to release the front brakes and only use the brake which alone could not stop me. Soon there was no aggregate in the road surface it was deadly.

Sure enough I came off. Not bad but covered in this stuff. My raincoat has holes in the left sleeve and my knee say a bit of bark removed.

Then while waiting for a car to pass the bike was dropped in a heap of mud.

Semis were getting bogged, one was being unloaded as it had slipped off the middle of the road.  It was mayhem and dangerous.

A guy in a hilux coming at me tried to change into the other wheel track and came straight at me sideways. Stopping in a perfect position to wind his passenger window down for a yarn.

I had to walk the bike. Soon the mud that was drying a bit in the sun, started getting so sticky my front wheel would not turn, it was just skidding along the road. This was getting bad. I had come of once and fallen over.

There was 20 more km of this.

Soon a building came into sight with a few people chatting.

I had mud all over me, the bike and all my left panniers.

I had to stop here making Agallpampa was not an option.

The people were really friendly, they even had water from a hose that had good pressure. The bike, gear and I were washed.

I asked if I could camp there , she said it was ok. Buying some drinks in the tienda in the large building.

I asked her if I could pitch the tent inside.

I couldn’t believe it, she showed me a room with a bed I could use.

Changing out of my wet gear. The brake pads were replaced.

 The people here served me herbal tea and rice with beef.

I had been looked after in more ways, than one again.

These conditions, especially the weather will test me further as I move south.

Speaking to Devon who is now near Lake Titicaca, he said it is frosty every morning and  down to minus 5.

Having said that, Trujillo and the coast will be nice in the mild temperatures.

I plan to catch a bus from here to the end of this mud hole tomorrow.

12/5/2013 Near Paraiso to Casa de Ciclistas, Trujillo

D110, T7, Av18.87, Max55, Tot 14286, 4222

Cool at the tops, strong westerlies on the descent fine and hot in Trujillo


Having had a great nights sleep under four heavy Alpaca blankets, the cool air had really dried nothing overnight.

So it was wet socks, runners, boxer shorts and shirt back on.

Longs were worn, outside the road had been packed firm by the few vehicles that had used it overnight.

It was decided to ride insted of catching the bus.

Herbal tea was enjoyed with my hosts in the kitchen. We took photos outside and off I rode. It was so good to have brakes working again. These were pads from Australia.

The road was damp hard packed clay, it was ok till getting to a shady spot where it was still wet. Soon it got worse and had large rocks protruding from the surface.

The going was slow, though I was now used to this.

Some road workers told me it was an 8 year project to complete this  road from Huamachuco to Trujillo.

After 30 km of this, getting to the other end of the works asphalt commenced, oh, it was such a pleasure to be able to relax and cruise. My helmet was put on an off gravity took me.

There was a westerly head wind blowing, so it was a noisey descent.

Nearing a turn of back to Huamachuco the Rio Moche gorge was entered, from here it was pretty much 45km all the way down to the gently sloping river valley.

The temperature was a pleasure and kept getting warmer.

The dry mountains changed all the way down .

They were becoming hazy as I descended. The westerly head wind was now getting stronger, it is normal here.

Soon the lower slopes were covered in Pineapples. One was enjoyed at a stall.

Lower down the valley was dominated by sugarcane, all backdropped by dry rocky mountains.

 Traffic was getting heavier and at times the shoulder disappeared. It took awhile to get used to traffic again. Some drivers especially taxi vans passed so close.

Ever since leaving Ecuador, urban traffic outside towns had not been encountered. The most prominent peak on my left was Cerro Oraja. It was a pointed, prominent land mark, best viewed from the road around Quirihuac.

It was Sunday and traffic was getting very heavy, many people were seen  drinking and playing cards on the way down, as many tend to do on Sundays here.

It was decided to get off the road at Laredo and find a motel.

A great meal was had in here.

Continuing, in a totally urban area, a motel was required. Almost all had staircases and were not keen on cyclists anyway. Further on and asking people, it was discovered that this place blended into Trujillo.

I had arrived!!. Asking people, I had to back track to the Casa de Ciclistas on Avenida Santa.

It was soon found.

A Russian cyclist,Dimitri was staying there. It was great to swap stories, he has to go back to Loja to get his bike, as he was holidaying with his parents for a few weeks. We may catch up further south.

Kate, an Irish girl turned up, she is doing a four year round the world trip. You can see her blog at;cyclingcuriosity.blogspot.com She is a great photographer and lots of fun, full of enthusiasm.

Anyway, Lucho soon arrived and we introduced ourselves.

He is such a nice guy, he does all repairs for cyclists if they need them and gets parts from Lima here in four hours. A new chain and more brake pads were ordered.

That evening we went to Luchos house and Dimitri cooked Russian pancakes for us all as is traditional when you leave somewhere. There is a time of year in St Petersburg when pancakes are cooked to celebrate an occasion.

It was so nice to be among other cyclists. We all had a good yak and laugh.

Dimitri had a bus to Ecuador that evening so I took over his room.

13/5/2013 Trujillo

Unfortunately a throat cold has installed itself within. So it was good to be here in good company and accommodation.

Kate and I enjoyed coffee with water heated on her stove. She is great company, we get on well. Washing was done and the rest of the day was spent getting a few things in town and relaxing.

There are all sorts of resources here at the casa, books by other cyclists, profiles and routes, interesting maps and other information. Devon had spent time here also.

Another casa de Ciclistas is now in Macará in Ecuador on the border. Byron Francisco Otero can be contacted on Guatitas.com.

Here in Trujillo the casa is in walking distance from the Plaza de Armas, a pedestrian precinct with all imaginable types of retail premies and casinos present.

Cerviches are a specialty here, one was enjoyed at a stand near the large mall, it won’t be the last.

Kate and I went out for a meal, though not before enjoying an Olimiente on the street. It was her first one, she was impressed, it was a bit of a cool evening, like a hot toddy, it was so nice.

In Paijan Kate had been followed by thieves and had to seek refuge in a hotel lobby, it was nice to have avoided this town north of here. She said she has never seen poverty like that in the desert north of there. That is coming from someone who has ridden through Nepal and on into India.

We bought some beer and came back here and chatted on the top floor outside.

It had been a great relaxing day.

14/5/2013

My throat cold has settled in ,so being here is good timing in that respect.

Kate and I took a bus to the ruins at Chan Chan.

Built around AD 1300 and covering 20 sq km, Chan Chan is the largest pre-Columbian city in the Americas, and the largest adobe city in the world. At the height of the Chimú empire, it housed an estimated 60,000 inhabitants and contained a vast wealth of gold, silver and ceramics. The wealth remained more or less undisturbed after the Incas conquered the city, but once the Spaniards hit the stage, the looting began. Within a few decades little but gold dust remained. Remnants of what was found can be seen in museums nearby. Although Chan Chan must have been a dazzling sight at one time, devastating El Niño floods and heavy rainfall have severely eroded the mud walls of the city. Today the most impressive aspect of the site is its sheer size; you’ll need an active imagination to fill in the details. Ref:Lonely Planet Peru

The afternoon was spent looking for a Caledor, a small element to place in a cup to boil water, they are hard to find.

I am at a total loss without my stove, a further attempt to fix it yielded no postive result. They sell Bensina here which is better than petrol, alot cleaner.

I am just going to have to wait till the stove arrives in Lima from Santiago. Riding in the Andes in winter without a stove is not on. For that matter not having a morning coffee is also not on.

Some profiles to the Bolivian border were copied for both of us. During the afternoon in town wanted to move this cold on, some garlic and yoghurt was bought. The garlic cloves were chewed, they were so powerful i was close to throwing up. Without the yoghurt it would have been impoosible to eat it.

The garlic here is very strong. Unlike the Chinese stuff often found at home, where you need double the amount stated in any given dish.

We lashed out for dinner near the casa. Having pollo aguadito, a soup with chicken and crushed wheat. Two soups and a coke were Soles 3.50, which equates to $3.00 approximately, the soup was very enjoyable I must admit.

My weight is now 64kg, having weighed myself yesterday, keeping pants on my waist without a belt that have pockets full is becoming a problem. It feels good to be short of some 12kg since leaving Australia.

The evening was spent chatting to Lucho while he repaired Kates bike she purchased in China, we were stirring her about how so much needed repairing on it.

Lucho is a master and so thorough when it comes to repairing bikes.

I got the brake pads but they did not have a chain. Lucho is truing my wheels and checking the spokes. They were just a fraction out of true. From here repairs maybe hard to get done by someone as competent as Lucho.

Being here is a bit like a halfway house, it is a great place to rest and regroup.

Not having my stove has changed a lot of plans. Though I have time to spare, it is of no concern.  

15, 16,17/5/2013 Trujillo

Lujo trued my wheels which were only a fraction out, on returning the wheels to the bike, it was found that the left hand Hollowtech crank bearing was almost ceased. This is the second time I have had problems with this bearing. The first was in Nicaragua.

This now has to be replaced.

It is easy to fill in a day between having coofees and chatting with Kate who is still  here and looking for a resitencia which I cant find ..Kate got the last one in Trujillo we think.

Lucas a german cyclist dropped in to say hi. So we studied maps and chatted.

Kate and I both felt like a beer so we found the little restaurant we were at last night and sat round for a couple of hours drinking long necks of Trujillo, this is really a nice beer.

Dinner was never ordered, so we found kebabs on the street.

Lujo works on bikes during the night, he is a hard case, sometimes working till 0400. He is always there to talk to if you can’t sleep.

Right now I am in limbo over this stove business.

The water here in Trujillo is switched off from 1900-0700 so the guy that lives here permanently fills a large tub for toilet flushing each day.

There is a water shortage here.

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Enjoying sardines on biscuit, nearing the tops
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Some weather was on the make.
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The road was hard going and very slippery where no aggregate was in the mud.
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A bogged semi kids were unloading the sodas from the trailer.
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Such a welcome site, leaving in the morning.
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The same road the next morning, hard packed by trucks, though shady spots were still hard work
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where do you start?
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Chan Chan ruins
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Kate doing her bit in the parade of musuems.
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Our group post parade
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Alpaca, grazing on the tops, they were amazingly quiet. Their coats were unbelievably thick
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Lakes on the tops, trout called these home.
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Those clouds had this and rain within.
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Still hanging in with a smile and a lot of mud.
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Great hosts
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It was so good to be back in the warmth, this was pineapple country.
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Kate and Lujo in the workshop at La casa de Ciclistas, Trujillo. Lujo is a master mechanic.
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Lucas from Germany, the parade to a few hours to do a circuit of the city with bands playing and the streets lines with locals.
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