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  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
A map showing the general location of the village, where  hopefully, an attainment of a  moderate command of  Spanish language will occur, hoping my horticultural knowledge may help my hosts. The duration of  this visit is expected to be two months. From here voluntary teaching in villages around Granada is planned.
Un mapa que muestra la ubicación general del municipio, donde se espera que el logro de un comando moderado de lengua española se producirá, esperando mi conocimiento hortícola puede ayudar mis anfitriones. La duración de esta visita se espera que sea dos meses. Desde aquí enseñanza voluntaria en aldeas de los alrededores de Granada está previsto.
Picture
The main street of El lagortilla, near the language school (La calle principal de The lagortilla, cerca de la escuela de español)
19/11/2011 Grenada
As as mentioned plans made invariably get broken. On arrival at Managua, Pauline from La Esperanza kindly sent Phillipe to pick me up at the airport, this took a load off my mind knowing Managua would not have to be negotiated blindly. We were going to Grenada.
He turned up in a small sedan, the bike fitted neatly on the roof held by a tie down strap.
One of La Esperanzas houses is now my accommodation till cycling to Esteli.
Eight of us can be put up here in a very relaxed communal environment, people from Norway, Russia and the States are presently here or leaving. 
Grenada has a radiant relaxed atmosphere, people are friendly and everything is so reasonably priced. The markets are a great source of in season fruit and veges. Nicaragua one of the few nations that does not import food except for a few fruits that cant be grown i.e.apples.
Almost all people speak Spanish, a feeling of inadequacy has overcome me. For this reason, entries here are going to be few and far between. During the journey down the Mississippi a large amount of time was spent on my journal. This time will now be spent bettering what little Spanish I presently know.
Having a basic conversational command of the language is going to make the trip south so much more enjoyable.
 For a couple of months,a village out of Esteli will be my home, then back to here to Grenada for 4 to 6 months to volunteer at the school, come June, the southern hemisphere summer will be enjoyed to Tierra del Fuego, all things being equal. 
Hasta pronto

 
Picture
La Esperanza accommodation, Grenada
Picture
Street locale
Picture
Spanish architecture, years of civil war and earthquakes coupled with American adventurer William Walkers' orders to burn the city when his power was overthrown in the 1850's adds positively to the atmosphere here.
Picture
Dining and kitchen area
Picture
Dimitri with $2 papaya
Picture
Some of the worlds best coffee comes from plantations like this. Aribica is the best species, whilst mass produced coffee often comes from the robusta bean
23/11/2011
Summer,as it is known here is in full swing with clear days and no rain, days are about 27 with nights of 22 degrees

Having been in Nicaragua for one week now. I am coming to terms with my inability to concentrate for any length of time, especially when it comes to spanish grammar.

My short term memory has been proven to be dodgey, hence time spent here may have to be long enough to provide some long term memories.

I feel so inadequate here, very few people speak English. What is so annoying is that the people here are so friendly, and I don’t say this lightly and I can’t talk sense to them!!!

The people I have met in my present abode are so kind and so enthusiastic for me to learn Spanish.

On arrival at Managua airport, the voluntary school La Esperanza had a vehicle waiting with Phillipe. Pauline had arranged to have me stay at one of their houses for a few days in Granada.  The bike made the trip on top of Phillipes car.

This eased my mind so much, having heard or read very few positive comments about Managua.

My first 3 days were spent in the company of great young people from Sweden, Russia, Austria and the US. They all had a reasonable command of the language.

Most of us had some disallusions about our western way of life and its apparent unsustainabilty.

All of us were here to try to help the locals and improve or learn Spanish.

A memorable moment for me was when Maria,a lovely lady, 45, our hostel cleaner, on my departure, infront of everyone asked me to write down my nombre. I started writing down my Nic phone number, everyone laughed, classic. Myself whole heartedly joining in.

Granada is a great city with an atmosphere that is so relaxed, the few tourists are all low keyed, al fresco dining is the preferred dining scene. Kids are selling things everywhere, almost winning one over with their smiles. They move on with respect following the comment, no gracias.

I enjoyed a meal with an American guy and his wife at their house. All the while learning about the life here.

Anyway leaving a bit of gear at the hostel for my return. The plan was to head to Esteli to a Spanish school and live with a campesino family for a couple of months.

Finally getting away from Granada about 1200 and setting off up the Pan American highway to Masaya before turning north to Tipitapa. Some guys at a servo said watch the gangs there. Having heard this comment for months while on the road appropriate measures were taken. Keeping on riding till almost dark, the town of San Benito was reached. A town with non existent zoning laws. Stopping at the market a few bananas were bought and consumed.

Hoping there was a motel in situ, on asking, there was one, at $7/night (154 Nic Cordoda).

It was an upstairs affair, logistically it was hard to protect the bike and still cart stuff up stairs, putting it in a shop down stairs the problem was solved.

This country is third world in every sense of the word. People on the back of trucks, rubbish everywhere, all modes of transport from new landcruisers to horse and cart and improvised housing. No zoning laws.

The meal that evening saw me dining street side in an eatery with all the locals. Children and teenagers of immeasurable poverty were hanging about looking for food. The guy sitting next to me gave his plate to a child. Likewise myself when eating what I could. My thoughts were on our waste at home. All proceedings were watched by the most street wise dogs you could imagine. More undernourished pooches have I never seen.

Because of this, everything is so cheap, Gatorade $1/bottle, a good meal of Gallo Pinto (rice and beans staple) and chicken is $2. Tomatoes 50c/lb. The fruit and vegetables are so flavorsome and fresh.

So the next day cruising along just south of Las Maderas, a guy on on a motorbike caught up with me, we stopped for a chat, he spoke reasonable english.

Harold and I got on well, he said why don’t you come to my place at Madrono, south of Dario. Liking and trusting him enough to accept his offer we headed off. He told me there were some serious hills between here and his house.

Climbing the biggest of these in 30 degrees heat some guys in an old Merc flat bed loaded with concrete blocks passing not much faster than me yelled out, something, a bit of sign language saw an easy cruise to the summit hanging onto the side of the rig. It was a 4-5k haul, took me back to water skiing days with fatigued arms. All this on the main highway. Great stuff.

Arriving at the summit Harold was waiting, we had lunch and then went to his house. Its like a dairy shed without the cows.

I was introduced to his family who live up the road. They are treating me like one of the family, Rosa is making me fat with all her great food, cooked on a fire inside. Azension his dad has taught the boys to make furniture and wooden animals that they sell on the roadside.

I offered to pay $50/week to his mum. Harold had a nice way of putting it: $30 for food and a twenty dollar gift. Other costs are like fuel for the 125, Marjorie the girl next door to do washing and people keeping an eye out on the house.

At this point accepting Rosas invite to share christmas with them, one looks like being here for awhile. Turkey is on the menu. They are such a friendly family with Harolds sisters, their children and friends always about the house.

Harold is teaching me Spanish and all his friends are helping. I have to be careful as he can speak english and often the least line of resistence is taken.

I spend time with his brothers and sisters who can’t speak English. Believe me smoke has been coming out of my ears.

We took his bike to Dario, some 30k away and he introduced me to some great people from the US peace corps and a Swedish girl who is going to give me some lessons on Sunday (today) Emily did Spanish at uni.

Harolds bike had no lights, a torch we bought saved the day and us. Though we were on the Pan Am highway traffic was courteous.

I am loving this lifestyle, Harold and I headed into the scrub to collect wood for his furniture production. A swim in the gorge was enjoyed, a severe attack of itching from Pica Pica bush was endured, it was 15 minutes of hell believe me. We lost the track, thankfully back at the stream, water helped ease the pain.

Showering now involves bailing cold water from a bucket up at Rosas house. My tent is home pitched in Harolds pad. We do have power. Watching movies in Spanish with English subtitles is helping me.

At least learning the language is fun with the crazy comments made.

So all is well this end. I am in great company and living pretty much like a Nicaraguan village inhabitant.

Harold is heading to Managua on Sabado to see his wife. His motorbike is at my disposal which will give me an opportunity to browse about.

In his absence my companion here will be Lassie, the coolest of dogs, it took sometime for us to become amigos, he is like a street dog but in great condition. I can see us being good mates during my stay here.

 

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Fishermen in nthe outlet of Lago de Managua on the way from Masaya to Tipitapa
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Harold across the road in the area where he collects timber for the furniture his family makes for sale on the roadside
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Harolds parents Rosa and Acsension have kindly invited me for Christmas dinner. Goat, turkey and chicken will be on the menu
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The set up in Harolds pad, Madrono, about 25 minutes south of Sebaco on the Pan Am highway
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my mate ,Lassie, a gem of a dog
26/12/2011 Back to Granada
Well it has been 6 weeks in Nicaragua. My Spanish has improved to a point where it could best be described as pigeon Spanish.
I can communicate but with dodgey grammar skills. I still have trouble working out what people are saying but thats ok by me. My mind is not the sponge it used to be. A good friend likened the learning process to osmosis.
Christmas here has been a delight, the only thing missing was my family. Harolds family in Madrono were such a pleasure to be with on christmas eve and christmas day.
Christmas eve saw us enjoying Nicaraguan white rum, pork, chicken and goat. The fiesta was enjoyed at his sister Jacquelines house. My dancing though not with those latin american hip movements proved to be entertainment for all. Including myself.
Not having a mosquito net over me that night resulted in a sleepless night. The mossys here carry knives.
Christmas day saw everyone, all 20 of us get in the back of an Izusu ute and head to a pristine stream 6k  south of Madrono for a day of swimming, eating and gathering fish and a couple of snakes, one of which was huge.
Harolds family especially his mum and dad, Rosa and Ascension have been so good to me. There will always be a place for them in my heart and my home.
On christmas eve Rosa was so excited about the gift I bought her. I had to break the news that it was just a big jar of American coffee which is somewhat of a luxury here.
No buses ran on Xmas day so I spent the night with them again this time under a net the Ascension and I rigged up. No mossies got me but a stomach upset saw me have plenty of time to wonder at the stars on four occasions that night.
Since being here stomach upsets and the runs have hit a few times but the germs have been purged within 24 hours on each occassion. Hoping when it hits again the same process continues.
In Granada last weekend a ham roll was hastily purchased out of a wam display cabinet late in the day. My stomach said no to this in a most voilent way. The toilet was my second home for a couple of days.
I leave Dario tomorrow to go back to Granada to get a lighting project under way with La Esperanza school, a voluntary organization.. More on that later.
My study here is becoming a bit of an overdose. Needing a purpose, and the language to follow it will help during my organizing this project in the campesino villages where La Esperanza have schools.
The swedish Christian organization, Senda de Libertad, who have provided a room for me to study in and who organize a english club have been so kind to me here during my stay. I would like to especially thank Wilder and Hiro. Of course a mention has to go to Carlos my meastro for a few weeks. Who is marrying a Swedish girl Emelie in January. My best wishes to them.
Company at the house has been enjoyable with David, Marlene,Jessica and Manuel from Sweden who are here for 8 months performing christian activities in Dario.
Though having said this, my friend Harold introduced me to these people in the first place.
Harold, a native Nicaraguan and great guy, who had almost no education, can speak fluent english.
He learnt most of it from watching subtitled movies over and over. It’s a great way to learn any language one would have to conceed.
In Granada my meals will not be provided. With funds dwindling. Gallo pinto will be my staple. The markets in Granada are great.

LIGHTING PROJECT
This environmentally sustainable project has me rather excited.
It will be my responsibility to get this project up and running before my cycle journey south.
It’s  a brilliant idea, that has proved ever so successful in other underdeveloped countries, especially among the poor of the Phillipines and Brazil.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBWi3NtND68
I have spent a fair bit of time inside some of the more rustic housing of the poorer members of communities here. Harold’s parents and especially his “shed” along with his neighbours homes were classic examples.
Put simply they were incredibly dark inside during the day. Many people do not use lighting at this time.
Luis’ home at Miraflor was another example of this darkness experienced during the day within these dwellings. An iron roof with stone block walls and a concrete floor with a fire used to cook. The light intensity  experienced  just before sunrise, is how these people exist all day every day when indoors.
Many homes don’t even have a concrete floor.
The electric lighting used in each room in those homes with power, is generally a small spiralled flouro, uncapable of brightening things up during the day anyway, and at  a cost.
As you can see on the Youtube link, it’s such a simple but effective solution to the lighting issues in these homes.
 Discarded plastic bottles, among other plastic debris  are unfortunately such a huge part of the environment here. It’s almost amusing watching the uninhibited way people toss stuff on the ground. Fires burning plastic are as much a part of life, as is the perpetual shower of rubbish exiting the bus windows as they head down the highway.
  I am going to volunteer my time to La Esperanza to get this project on the move.
http://www.la-esperanza-granada.org/english/about_us.shtml
It will involve:
• Promoting the idea with videos, photos, demonstrations and an explanation of the benefits of an installation.
• This promotion will have to be done on site in the villages.
• People will have to be trained to initially instal the bottle in a small piece of corrugated iron off site, to make installation easier.
• I feel that the less time spent on the roofs of some of these homes will lessen the potential for accidents. ( some roofs are supported with questionable unmilled portions of trees)
• Unlike the installation in the movie, we could drill the required hole through the roof from within the dwelling and waterproof this with silicon and attached it with pop rivets.
• I am aware that these people are used to the darkness of their homes, but are confident they will embrace the idea like those in the Phillipines. There will be no cost to the recipients.
In asking you to donate say $20 or more to this cause. I have said to Pauline that knowing people, firstly they will want hassle free way to transfer the funds and secondly,  will want total transparency and detailed updates of our progress.
I am not in the habit of asking people for money, but I do believe that this project will greatly improve the lives of these people here in this country, many of whom have been so kind to me. Take for example Harolds parents. They have treated me with so much generosity whilst having so few resources. Everywhere I have been people are so willing to help, especially with my Spanish, I am a tad embarrased. Though like all countries some taxi drivers will have a good go at extracting over the top fares from gringos.
A classic was in Esteli on my climbing out of a cab in el parque. A guy came straight up to me, the lone gringo, offering me his services to show me around. He said the obligatory “where are you from”. I replied, mi casa es en Dario. Taken aback he exclaimed “Dario, Nicaragua”?!!!. “Si, Si”, Surprised he casually departed.

My involvement with this project is possible without total fluency of their tongue.
So if you feel like helping and have a pay pal account you can transfer funds to the La Esperanza Nic account. This will be followed by a detailed list of our expenditure on the project. Whilst  I will enjoy keeping you all updated.
DONATION LINK
https://www.paypal.com/xclick/business=la_esperanza_granada@yahoo.com&item_name=La+Esperanza+Granada&no_note=1&tax=0&currency_code=USD
 Some initial costs that come to mind are:
• Corrugated iron
• Cordless drill and bits
• Chisels
• Hammers
• Silicon
• Pop rivets
• Pop rivet gun
• Ladder
If you feel like me, I know you won’t mind parting  with a few dollars for such a simple, sustainable idea that will improve the lives of so many people here in Nic. around Granada’s rural areas.
I will see that any money you  donate is used at the coal face.
Thanks so much for your support


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Ascension, Christmas eve a fun night with the only gringo around for miles
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This many bods in the ute, no problema.
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My house mates in Dario, Jessica, Marlene, David and Manuel all from Sweden, it was an enjoyable month in such a nice town.
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Harolds sister and neice. Jacqueline always had the night under control. Lissette is such a good kid.
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Christmas day at the river.
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Downtown Dario
A couple of days in Granada 30/12/2011
It's nice to be back here in Granada. Last night a few drinks with Pauline and Mark, a founder of La Esperanza were enjoyed in the al fresco dining area en el centro. many of the bars and restaurants are partly geared for tourists. It's very different from Dario.
Having found a great spot to eat deep in the markets, an hour or so is enjoyed there each day talking to people whilst eating. For veinte cuatro cord (US 2.50), una botella de coke frio, arroz, pollo, ensalada, platano and pasta is avaliable. Another delight en el centro es pinolillo, a milky drink containing cocoa. I
have arranged to get formal spanish lessons here. Up to now I have just had lessons from friends of people I have met. These lessons have had no structure.  
These are $4/hr which is great, its one on one with 2 hours a day part of the lesson includes a meander through town with the teacher. Hopefully this will put some of my knowledge in order.
Today the morning was spent repairing toilet cisterns and sinks in a couple of La Esperanzas houses. Electrical work was also carried out. Not before a big sign in Espanol and English was posted on the mains board. So my days will be spent doing the maintenance for a couple of months whilst here. 
Jim the guy previously performing it is losing his sight.  The rest of the time we will be spent getting the lights installed in villages.
Speaking english now achieves very little in the yearn to learn Espanol. Though often the least line of resistence is taken. A young German guy in one of the other houses said he and the other volunteers, also German end up talking in their native tongue much of the time. 
New years eve here is a night of much celebration and fireworks. I hope to partake. 
most tourists seen here in Granada appear to be people looking for a quiet time, endulging in the culture and laid back lifestyle. The Nicas are such a friendly people. 
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un millon cord, in the 80's before the cord was linked to the US dollar. This guy was a watch repairer We started chatting and he pulled out this collection of notes from some of the most wayward parts of the world.
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Lago de Nicaragua, tres kilometros del centro
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tres ovejas ha visto en la marina
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Cerca el centro en Granada
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Principal turista comisaria en Granada
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entrada a el mercado cobierto
7/1/2012 Granada

Its hard to believe it has been seven days since news Years eve. Incidently it was an enjoyable evening spent in town.

Here in Granada I am starting to feel like a local now, often heading into town for a drink with Pauline and others from La Esperanza. We have a great house here in  on Calle Santa Lucia, six of us all have a room each, my room even has an ensuite.

At present we have an American guy, a Norwegian Guy, a Canadian and Demitri and Tamara a lovely couple from Moscow, Demitri es La Policia de casa and Tamara is his assistant we all have fun stirring each other. Dave from the US is a unique guy. Theres not much he doesnt know about history. He even gave Dimitri a lesson in Russian history.

We had a quiz night at the local Irish bar the other night, our team coming second, made a dramatic come back when asked to name countries on a map of eastern europe and the stan countries, thanks to our Russian team members, coming second we celebrated with the team who came 1st who were awarded a couple of bottles of rum.

The other day 5 of us walked to the top of Mombacho which is on the south side of town, the climb saw us attain an elevation of 1400 metres into a cloud forest with trees covered in Bromeliads. On the day the summit was cover in cloud so thick the vegetation was dripping. We even had to done jumpers due to the temperature change. There is a coffee plantation half way up which had free coffee on offer. The best for me here to date.

I couldnt believe it when I bumped into Harold who had just got a job as a guide on the hill. He and I had been walking about the town the two previous days  looking for a job as he is hoping to move to Granada.

Our arrival back in town saw us in a bar enjoying a newly released beer here that many people have taken to, called Victoria maestro, not bad I might add.

Feeling to relaxed to cook we grabbed a banana leaf wrapped chicken rice, platano, gallo pinto and ensalada number.

Sunday morning saw Demitri,Tamara and I go on a great bike ride for 30Km north along the lake shore towards El Paso. A swim in the lake was enjoyed on the way back. Possibly further adding to ones resistence to unknown undesirable organisms.

The water wasn’t exactly clear.

The local Hotel Granada has the best pool in town so for $50 I have full use of it and other facilities for a month. It’s the kind of pool that laps can still be done in an unhindered fashion even with a few people just frolicking about.

This afternoon Dave decided to roast what appeared to be rooster legs. Larger chicken legs I have not seen. 
This coming week will see me doing more running repairs on the la Esparanza houses. There are always problems with the plumbing. Everything is kind of jury rigged. Further prep work on the solar lighting project will also be carried out.  
The dry season is really underway now with no hint of rain and 30 degree days with 24 degrees at night.



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Vegetation atop Mombacho, Pete, Fredrick and Cass, note bromeliads in trees
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Freshly husked coffee beans out to dry, halfway up Mombacho
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Tamara and Dimitrii with Catholic cathedrals and Mombacho keeping an eye on downtown Granada
A typical day in Granada in Casa de Santa Lucia

I arise at 0600hrs check my emails and have porridge, a staple here for Santa Lucia residents. Omar then arrives at seven to give me a 1 hour Spanish lesson, my first formal lessons. This costs $4/ hr.

By this time the rest of the crew are up, Altough Tamara and Dimitri are up before everyone else, they are a great couple and so motivated. I enjoy Tamaras company and her mine I feel. She is learning to use the word “bloody” with some skill now.

The morning is always a lucky dip in the kitchen to see how messy Dave has left it.

I then head out to do maintenance on the 4 dwellings that La Esperanza own.

Libertad the biggest house holds about 25 people in dormitories. Plenty is always breaking there.

The others in the house ride to the school on bikes hired from La Esperanza at  $1/week, good bikes too.

The nights now are very pleasant and for the first time in 7 months I am not getting bitten by mozzies. We have worked it out that with the ceiling fan on fast the buggers cant land. Consequently there are alot of frustrated mozzies about after bloodless nights. Tamara and Dimitri use a net.

We have an open kitchen out into an enclosed garden area in which is a tank stand that has an outdoor shower beneath it.

Life is so relaxed here, traffic operates on a courtesy system that facilitates horses, pedestrians, cyclists and cars alike. Road rules are left to those who use the road.

Most importantly it works. Becoming used to the sights here, a  new wooden push cart was seen a couple of days ago, about the size of two wheely bins lying on their sides, it was made from pieces of wood. The wheels were pieces of 4 by 2 joined and cut into a circle with  a rubber strip around the circumference. The guy was as proud as a  rooster in a pen with 20 hens with his new workhorse.

Superimposing this cart onto a street in my home town shows just how basic life and its needs are, here in Nicaragua.

Grey water flows in the streets 24/7, as the whole city gently slopes to the lake all this water ends up there, one can never lose the direction to the lake, just follow the water.

The locals, like those in Dario love their rocking chairs, in the evenings they are placed on the footpaths, with their occupants  just chatting and watching life go by. Sitting in one recently, they are indeed a piece of furniture that now only plays a small role in the busy lives of people who have many wants.

Try sitting in one when you get the chance, it’s rewards are similar to those recieved in the carefree days we spent on a swing in the back yard as kids.

Maria comes and cleans the house about 1130hr, I’m usually here and have a chat with her utilizing my spanish skills.

Reading a comment, that pop songs come to Nic to die, agreement from myself best sums up the statement. Foreigners, “I wanna know what love is”, is a favorite on buses and anywhere else for that matter. Not taking anything away from the song of course, which is a perennial.

People here in Granada are like elsewhere are extremely friendly and help with the language whenever they can. The average person lives on $50/month. Food is therefore very cheap, especially the staple Gallo pinto,( beans and rice). Some people have gallo pinto guts. The Central Americans answer to a beer gut.

Summer school is on at the moment so Dimitri and co get home about 1300hrs.

The other night Dave was consuming one of his roosters legs, caveman style whilst holding a conversation with Tamara who is an avid vego.

So if you can picture Dave with this huge piece of chicken talking opposite Tamara with grease dripping off it  and Dave spitting out words through mangled chicken, some of which was finding its way from his mouth onto the table. As onlookers, the rest of us  were cracking up. Dave, totally oblivious of his primitiveness.  He is incredibly intelligent, the conversation centered around the history of China. Tamara was doing her best just to look at him as she spoke.

Classic stuff.

It’s great being in the company of such different people, being tolerant of their differences, but most importantly deriving humour from these differences and the situations they create.

Most people here are seasoned travellers. It is great hearing their stories.

The afternoons are spent relaxing around the table on our computers, studying, improving our Spanish through conversation and chatting.

A few of us guys cook communally, Fredrick whilst learning Spanish in Costa Rica ate a lot of chicken wraps, a favorite with us this week.

The pineapples here are so sweet, an addict I’ve become.

Tuesday nights sees all of us volunteers get together for a meeting, among other things discussed, new volunteers tell the group about themselves.

Wednesday nights is reserved for quiz nights at the pub.

At present there is a big group of about 40 volunteers here especially to construct a school building.

We also have quite a few girls of all ages  from Spain here. Needless to say their Spanish is to be envied. A couple though have no English skills.

The evenings see us watching sub titled tele, reading or chatting and laughing about things in general.
I am riding my bike about town, as many people use bikes for transportation here in Granada, I always get a second glance. Its a bit like a Maserati in a shopping centre car park in Australia. Having said that I am somewhat paranoid about having it stolen.Losing it here in Granada would be a total disaster. I am seeing to it that it won't happen.

Granada 27/1/2013

Well after 1 month in Granada life has got shades of normality about it. Life in Casa de Santa Lucia is all good, we all get along well and tolerate each others little habits as long as they dont bother one another.

Its great to be able to walk from the house leaving our computers and other belongings on the dining table. In saying that, life within the house is much like that at home, you dont expect to be robbed everyday. The front door is fortified as Dimitri would describe it from his small but ever expanding English vocab.

The bottom bracket bearing on my bike was found to be worn. It is a smbb 51 Shimano Hollowtech setup. They dont exist in Granada. Luckily I found the part here in Nicaragua. All bikes sold here in Granada are worth about $70.

Here are the details of Marcos shop which is located within the Hotel Raizon. He saved me a trip to Costa Rica. Though I will need a fleeting visit there in a couple of weeks to renew my visa. Its a pain as 2 weeks later I depart for the same destination. Oh well better to play the game than get lumbered with a fine at the border.

Dirección es km 20.4 carretera a Masaya, donde esta la señal de transito de la bicicleta, cualquier cosa preguntar en el Súper o el Hotel el Raizón

Marco Antonio Alvarado

Representante

TecnoBici MTB de Nicaragua, S.A.www.tecnobicimtb.com

telefono: 505 8888-8560        

 505 8378-0303

Last weekend a group of us went to the pacific coast to San Juan del Sur. A party town to say the least. We all danced the night away in numerous bars on and off the beach. The girls were giving us lessons in salsa. Funny believe me.

Saturday was spent at Madera beach, a crescent shape bay, one from a tourist brochure.

It is a prime surf beach able to hold 10 foot waves so I was told, 3 foot was the max today. Ideal for learners, myself included. We all had a ball mucking around with boards.

Sunday morning a couple of us walked to the recently built statue on a high point overlooking Sa Juan del Sur. Like a mini Rio.

The week now includes our weekly volunteers meeting in the Casa Blanca Hotel, quiz night Wednesdays and trying to do a bit of study other nights.

Dimitri and Tamara have introduced us to a game called mafia, aptly named considering their country of origin. The words policia, KGB and vodka are always introduced into the conversation when we it is less than serious.

We now have a German couple on board, Mike and Maddy, who both threw their jobs in to travel for awhile and volunteer.

Kas the Canadian guy moves out soon and another couple will join us.

My Spanish is progressing slowly, I really love the language and the emotions that convey it.

The Spanish volunteers talk so bloody fast though. The kids speak the most understandable dialogue, for me anyway.

We speak Spanish when possible in the house. A common factor with all the volunteers is that they have all studied the language for quite a few years. I feel they excuse me, two and a bit months into it.

In a week the summer school finishes here, so we will be having a break.

Below is a modified version of an email I sent to people who donated to the solar lighting project I am involved in here. Its been a great succes to date.

Though I have never encountered such thin corrugated iron before. Most hazardous whilst installations are carried out.

Last week I commenced the lighting project. The first thing we did was buy the necessary tools in a local hardware store here. Believe me, the range and quality of the items avaliable is not imaginative to say the least.

We purchased:

tin snips

epoxy roof glue x 5 @ $8.00 each

pop rivet gun and rivets

2 sheets of corrugated iron

chisel

drill bits

La Esperanza had hammers, and other small tools and luckily  a cordless drill, so your money is going straight to buying iron and glue, the 2 main expendables for the project.

The first couple of days I got the templates perfected and prefabed a few to get things going.

The bottles, 1.5l coke bottles have been found to be ideal.

They are not just lying about, as people collect them, and most volunteers are not big coke consumers. I have found a guy in the markets that sells them to me for a cord each, about 5c. Some days I am seen wondering about with a mesh bag of empty coke bottles. Totally blending in with the locals.

We have installed about 12 units in 5 houses. People were reluctant to accept it at first, especially that some foreigner was coming around to cut a hole in their otherwise waterproof roofs.

The video on the net copied to my ipod, helped convince people of the benefits of the bottles.

My spanish skills are now such that I can direct people and let them know my intentions.

Fransico, a local villager has been helping me. I pay him 50 cord for a morning (2.50)

He gets on the roofs, I am sometimes up there with him on the more supported structures. We lay flat boards about to spread our weight. The ladder is 2 lengths of timber with rungs nailed to it.

I had to explain to the owners of the first house that the first hole we incorrectly cut was a test hole. All was ok .

After the installation they were impressed as was I.

It is such a good idea.

Another installation leaked onto the bed. Again a volley of Lo siento came from me. They were understanding.

We have now got the installations sorted with no further leaking to date.

Tomorrow we have another 4 houses to complete.

I am training another person to help me and will later pass the prefab work onto them.

Here are a couple of photos of before and after the installation.

Thanks again

Nige

Yesterday an installation was made in a more substantial home, one of block and iron. The kids room was so dark you could not see the floor. Their mum and dad were reluctant to give it a go. Anyway a few photos, a video presentation and they gave me permission to instal 2 units.
The children helped me, they were about 8 and 10 years old, both very capable and practical, you need to be in this environment.

After completion the woman had a huge smile on her face and displayed gratitude like I haven't seen for some time. she was thrilled to bits at the outcome.

The kids rushed in and made their beds. They could now read in their own room.

The neighbour from a similar home is having a couple installed today.

This is such brilliant idea, the pun most definitely included.

Anyway must head out to the village and keep at it.

My friend Harold now has a job guiding here in Granada. His guests think he is great and gets some good tips. His many hours of watching movies to learn english have paid off.

I will be making a trip to Madroño to say goodbye to Rosa and Ascension and his family before I leave Nic
My time here at La Esperanza Granada so far has been so enjoyable, my fellow volunteers are of all ages but generally in their early twenties, they are such enjoyable company. If you are ever thinking of volunteering in Central America look closely at this organization. I can assure you it will meet your expectations. Being non denominational appealed to me.
Pauline with the help of the Nicaraguan ayudantes do such a good job.
Though I am not teaching the children, my duty of maintaining La Esperanzas 4 houses and  more importantly bringing light into some homes at no cost is satisfying my desire to give back for a period. Not to mention the Nicas are just the nicest people.

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Madera beach on the pacific side
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San Juan del Sur looking south, a town of bars, young people and good times
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Let there be light, and there was, big time!!!
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Such a simple but great idea, notice covered hole to the right, it was described as a test hole, we actually centered it in a trough rather than a ridge.
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los niños con perro se devierten (The boys with the dog having fun)
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the crew, Spanish, Canadian, Norwegian, French, US, Australian German, a great mix
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The kids room prior to a light installation
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Teresas cocina proir to installation
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Francisco on the job
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tres amigos
The last week or two in Nic

Dare I say it but Nicaragua and its people continue to grow on me,it will be hard work leaving here. I am now a local at the  ferreteria, the manager a great guy now comes down to the cash register and swipes his staff card to give me trade discount. The second grade plumbing fittings imported for general use from China have the life expextancy of a blind, deaf cat crossing a freeway.

A couple of large groups of volunteers from the states have come and constructed some class rooms in school grounds whilst I have been here. Many buy tools in the states and leave them here for our use.

The summer school is now over, it involved the children turning up voluntarily during their holidays, friends volunteering here said the time was enjoyed by themselves and the niños. Santa Lucia casa is now occupied by me, Dimitri and Tamara, Mike and Maggie from Germany, David and Saskia of Austria, two Belgian girls and Dave from the states.

It is a dynamic environment to say the least.

During the break between the end of summer school and the beginning of the first semester for 2012. Peter from the UK and I visited Rio San Juan. It was a 7 hour chicken bus trip around the north side of Lago Granada on a brand new sealed road. My 2011 Nat Geo map of Nic showed it as gravel. Asking people, we found it had been tarred in the last 5 months. Progress is indeed happening here. Daniel Ortega who was elected in February last year, is influenced by his wife. I have been told it is good influence. He is now in for a 5 year term. It is hopefully a period of stability and growth for this nation of people who have endured many previous problems caused by their rulers. Violeta Chamorro ordered the rail system demolished and sold for scap in 1993 for short term cash gain.

Back on the trip to Rio San Juan, this area is in the south east of the country, the river drains Lago Granada to the Atlantic coast. This area is one has plentiful rain, up to 6000mm/annum.

The river is navigatable and all goods including vehicles are shipped down stream from San Carlos. During our time their I slipped across the border into Costa Rica to renew my visa at Los Chiles. It was 7 hr affair due to engine problems on the return boat ride. Cost wise the return boat trip was $20, whilst border costs were $16.

We took a canoe up the Boca de Sábalos, there were sparodic fincas on both shores, many were growing Cacoa. Three species of monkey were spotted including a sloth. The guy in the canoe could spot one of these monkeys high in a huge tree as well as a guy in a city spots a nice looking girl. The trees were absolutely laden with bromeliads and orchids. We encountered a shower that would explain the high rainfall, visibility was down to 30m for all or 10 minutes, followed by the sun.

We caught up with Tona, Venessa and Cass back in San Carlos and spent the day talking and having a few beers in the local pub.

The previous night Pete had meet these two couples in the hostel we were staying at. That evening when I arrived they were at the bar. Our company,  Ed, Aida, Mal and Ester were great value.

Much 5 year old Flor de Caña was consumed after being smuggled down from Mals room upstairs. We laughed and tried to sing Dylan renditions with Mal who was brilliant, Ester recited one of Ruben Darios poems, that of a girl who stole a star from the sky and put it in her heart only to be told by her told to put it back. A moving collection of words was revealed, as she translated the reading for us.

All in all it was a night to remember, they were on holiday from around Puerto Momotombo, near La Paz centro. We swapped addresses and emails, I told them I would love to catch up again.

The following weekend Dimitri, Tamara and I spend a great day over at La Boquita on the pacific coast. This is a great spot no where near as commercial as San Juan de Sur. A seafood bisgue with 3 lobsters 2 crabs and a fish was enjoyed, taking an hour to eat, it was indeed value for 220 cord or $10.
On the day a huge swell was rolling in from somewhere in the pacific, we swam with caution.


Last weekend as arranged I headed up to see Aida and Ed at Puerto de Momotombo. I stayed with them at their bed and breakfast “Tapaliguis” www.facebook.com/tapaliguis. They were such good company. The first day was spent at the record attempt for the longest Quesillo in La paz el Centro the record was broken and an entry in the Guiness Book of Records was achieved.

This is a traditional food from the last century. It is made with milk, cheese and takes nine hours to prepare with totillas, the cheese preparation is a big task resulting in a dough like finish.

It was a great day with Aidas district displaying the fruits that grow well in their soils, those being cashews, bananas, papaya, peanuts, to mention a few. It is also prime cattle country.

The next day was spent touring the lugunas around Momotombo and playa Mirramar, a beautiful fishing village

Mal and Ester were with us. A classic moment arose when Ester accidently stood on Mals toe in the cramped conditions in the four wheel drive. He let out a roar saying you’ve broken my toe, I’m going to have to get a tow truck. Corny, but it stole the moment with all of us having a good laugh.

A poetry week has just been completed here in granada it was quite an ocassion with poets from all over the world reading. The night I attended, poets from Ukraine, Australia, Japan, Mexico and Nicaragua read their woven words. This all happened in the central park.
Last friday night say Pete and I organized a gathering here at Santa Lucia, it was his birthday and my last week, it was a great night with pollo on the bbq, ensalada, pan and and a great cake for us made by Vanessa.
Some of us got home at 0500 after a night of karaoke and salsa dancing in varying states of finess, though trying our best under instruction from Elodie.

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Public transport Boca de Sábalos
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The older members of La Esperanzas volunteers. Rio San juan in the background, on the waterfront at San Carlos
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cashews, fascinating to say the least
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La Paz centro area, great cattle country, peanuts are depleting the good of these soils where they are grown.
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Miramar fishing village
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Waterfront Boca de Sábalos. The military guy informed me monos were not safe when he needed to check the accuracy of his hardware, jokingly of couse.
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Guapas having fun
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Momotombo (1258m) in the background,great company in the foreground, Lake Managua inbetween.
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The small black spot was blown out during an eruption, Mal reckoned it was burnt out during the take off propulsion of a flying saucer, either way the History Channel thought it interesting enough to devote a programme.
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Quisillo production, queso is Espanol for cheese.
22 Feb 2012
A large part of today was spent on chicken buses heading north to Madroño to say goodbye to Harolds family. They were so kind to me at the beginning of this stay. It was great to see Rosa, Ascension, Jacquilene, Lissette , Hosé and the rest of the crew.

Lissette was in bed with a flu she had caught, this aside she still managed one of those lovely smiles of hers. Lassie was on heat as I was departing in January and "surprise" she now has a litter of white bitzas. Judging by the way the teets on female dogs hang in these parts, it appears every time they come into season a litter of pups is on the way.

I get a bit emotional on ocassions like this. These three months in Nicaragua have been nothing short of a steady accumulation of enjoyable experiences. My Spanish is no where near the point where I can express these emotions. However most people are aware my feelings when this emotion reveals itself in my speech accompanied by a bit of moisture across my eyeballs.

The  trip up there involved catching a bus to Managua, then a second heading to Estelí, in between was a taxi ride of some 10 k to the bus depot for the north. I don’t recommend this passage, if you find yourself needing to traverse this terrain on public transport.

The best way is bus to Massaya, then to Tipitapa and then one for Estelí, thus avoiding Managua.

On the road into Managua a scene that stirred my feelings was that of an injured horse lying motionless on the road, with, presumably its best mate standing alongside, as horses do when one of their own is in trouble. Sadly one of its hind legs was severed a short distnce from its hoof. It was as if this unijured horse at the incident was taking control of the traffic flow. People at the event had no ability to clear the road.. The resultant fate for this injured horse was obvious.

These horses are a large part of the visual environment here in Nic. They draw small wooden carts, mostly on car axles and move anything from firewood to soil from construction sites and anywhere else their owners can find goods that need moving. These animals, often appearing under norished, will stand outside a hardware shop all day in the sun waiting with their owner for a load of whatever to be delivered somewhere.

Their dedication to this task of hauling all manner of materials is especially evident when they are seen ever so sure footed down hills with heavy loads, the carts appear to have no brakes, the horses use their hooves often shode with rubber pads to control the descent of their burden. Their dedication is as evident during their passage uphills. Their lives are given to their owner and his need to feed his family.

24/2/2012

Today was spent finishing things with the lighting project. Instructions were left for the next volunteer to carry on with installations. Manuel, whos parents owned a house where I carried out an installation, helped me get things back to Granada. We took a bus. Arriving at La Esperanzas offices and introducing Manuel who was about 12 years, Pauline explained to me that the police take a grim view to people my age around the streets with children this age.

It didn’t even dawn on me that this could be an issue. “Bloody sad” would best describe the message that this may convey to some people. Anyway the plan to shout Manuel a lunch in the markets was flagged, instead we stocked up on melon, banana and mandarins for the trip back to his folks place. He had school that afternoon. He was a great help for me and ever so capable in a practical sense.
Dimitri makes me laugh when he washes the skin of water melons with soap and water prior to cutting them open for consumption. He explained to me that at a young age in home of  Russia he was taught to wash all fruit before eating it. Old habits die hard. In reinforcing his actions he said this habit is better than smoking, touche!!.
 

I later looked in on the volunteers at the new school, it was like an ants nest, much was getting done.
Calling into to the ferreteria today to thank the manager, he proudly told he was finishing up here today. His boss had promoted him to one of the Managua branches. it wasn't hard to see why.

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The crew in the foreground are tying reo
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Classroom scene, Nueva Ezperanza
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camping on site, their country of origin ain't 'alf obvious, aye!
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some of the crew, great bunch of people
The last couple of days in Granada, La ultima dia aquí, Domingo 27/2/2012

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The crew at Santa Lucia upon my departure, minus the two Dutch girls.
Well, with me changing my mind as to my departure date at least 4 times, we have had 4 nights out in a row. My Spanish vocab was completely exhausted by the fourth night. The company on most nights was 2 Spanish women,Vanessa, Tona,.Toña was the name of the beer as I was reminded on more than one ocassion, during conversation. The third woman Anna was from Holland and Pete from the UK. They were an enjoyble few nights.

This time in Granada, especially in casa Santa Lucia has been time that will be etched in my memory. The company in the house was a great mix of people that got on so well. It was a pleasure to come back to this environment after a days activities. Stirring Dave was enjoyed by both he and I. This activity often launched us both into enjoyable, amusing conversation with comebacks enjoyed by all.

My relentless requests to take his verb book The Little Red book of Spanish Verbs fell on deaf ears for two months. My main line among others was that numerous emails were recieved by myself from the Costa Rican border control saying I wouldn’t be allowed entry to the country without it. Yesterday Dave arrived back at the house and said he would give it to me for a huge suitcase I bought from the states to save on baggage costs, a computer satchel bought here and a shirt.

A great deal for both of us, he needs the bag, and the satchel and now looks like a new man in the shirt. For me, well I couldn’t take either the satchel or the suitcase, which incidentily was bought at garage sale in Houston for a dollar. A win win situation.

Mind you my Spanish had better improve.

Everyone was about the house today for a final photo. Dimitri and Tamara came over from their new abode for the ocassion.

Pauline from La Esperanza has been so good to me in letting me stay here for a couple of days extra. We often caught up at O’sheas bar for a drink and a chat.

All the houses were in perfect working order today. The lighting project was a success, with all the necessary equipment and instructions left for the next volunteer or a local.

On showing other volunteers the impact of the lights, all the recipients were more than happy.

Today was spent relaxing, having an enjoyable chat over a coffee with Tona, an everso interesting, caring, but above all enthusiastic lady and methodically packing the panniers.

Though not wanting to leave Granada or Nicaragua for that matter. The time has come to move on and beat the wet season to the equator.

Lastly, I’d like to thank the people I have shared this last 9 weeks with, of whom many have parents younger than myself.

We all had such a great time together on nights out and day trips. I feel both our lives have been enriched in this time together. Mine has undoubtably. I wish everyone all the best, a great foundation for the rest of their lives has been layed here in Nicaragua.

In my case, one could liken this time to icing on a cake with ingredients of helping raising two great sons, all the while spending that time with special lady. This kind of endeavour unfortunately has some costs.

A friend of mine said “When you get old, you dont dwell on the things you did do ,you regret the things you didn’t do”. This statement coming from an eighty four year old man among other reasons has seen some of my dreams become a reality.

A reality that will see the front trye on a push bike point south tomorrow hopefully coming to rest at the most southern city in the world, that of Ushuaia, in a years time.

One cannot begin to think of what lies ahead. Such an attraction for me. Nicaragua has been such a wonderful place for the launching of this journey.

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