12,13/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata
D43, T2.5, Av17, Max30, 8484
Below zero in the morning, heated rapidly
Well, last night was one our coldest nights, we both slept with beanies on and longjohns. Our water bottles had been put inside the tent to stop them from freezing. We now fill two large water bottles near the end of the day for camping. We try to get water from peoples houses, as long as it is potable as most is used for tea, coffee or cooking.
This is the perfect amount of water for a night for two of us. Any extra needed is taken from our water bottles.
We slept into 0700, there was ice inside the tent and the bottles of water were partly frozen.
Importantly the camp site was going to catch the early morning sun, that it did, by 0730 we were bathed in the life giving light, though the warmth was not enough to immediately impact on our very cold hands.
As usual I got the water boiling. It is hard to get much more than a rolling lazy boil up here on the altiplano, a lid on the bowl certainly helps.
Having only 30 odd km to Challapata, we took our time packing, just enjoying the calm morning and even more, the increasing warmth of the sun as it lifted further above the range to our east.
All our gear was dry before we left, my sleeping bag was spread out on the hay stack.
On wheeling our bikes to the track, it was discovered I had a front flat tyre.
Over near the farm house we repaired it. The culprit was a piece of wire from a steel belted radial.
Every where here and in parts of Peru, trucks tyres had been burnt on the asphalt edge of hte roads.
I figure the truck drivers must burn the tyres off their rims before leaving, it would also offer warmth and a warning to other motorists.
There are these circular burn marks at regular intervals on most main roads.
We wandered around the farm house, it was an interesting insight into rural life on the altiplano.
Cattle, half a dozen were tethered in a dug out hollow and feed with the straw. Their waster was collected, dried and used for fuel.
The house was partly built of a rock that was predominantly made up of eceaninic fossils, indicating this whole area may have been under the sea many moons agos.
The riding was more of the same.
Still gently downhill, Lago Poopo to our right, not visible but a glistening mirage.
The ranges around us were ever changing as the sun rose further in the sky.
In the first and last light of the day, it was as though they were lit with their own light source. The beauty of their presence was inspirational.
By about 1200 we reached Challapata.
Finding an Alojamiento was a big job, riding almost every dusty street in town during our search.
The half dozen located were either unattended, full or closed.
We decided to have lunch at a busy restaurant.
Soup and a mutton main were enjoyed, Deirdre opted for soup and bread only.
I always have some medicine out of a glass bottle with my meals.
Only from glass.
Coke that is. At home I don’t touch the stuff, firstly because it is a rip off and secondly it is rarely available in glass. Not to mention the teaspoon of sugar in every 100ml.
Well on this journey I have adopted a different attitude to this drink. It provides sugar, which is burnt almost daily. This may sound crazy but I think it cleans out the gut a bit. That’s my excuse to Deirdre, who won’t touch it, even here.
At 17c for a small bottle, naturally chilled and always the same brew, I am happy partaking.
Deirdre is very particular with her cleanliness when eating. Often using a gel handcleaner.
We differ greatly here, Though not being unhygienic, it is important for me to expose myself to the local germ population where possible.
By this, I mean eating all manner of street food, not washing fruit, using my hands to eat bones in a meal.
Though more importantly, doing as the locals do.
Deirdre is quietly disgusted, though sometimes not, at some aspects of my casualness with regards to food and hygiene.
This provides some humour.
Sick, I have been, though in the big picture, these days have been few.
The Victor Alojamiento, was most importantly bathed in natural sun. I would recommend this alojamiento due to the wamth and coziness in the sun it provides.
We both did a heap of washing, by hand in frightfully cold water. The hot sun and desert dry air had our woollen gear almost dry in a couple of hours.
There were no showers here, we are now 4 days without a shower, neither of us stink as far as we are concerned.
Though last night in the camp we both agreed the presence of soxygen required the culprits were kept in the tent vestibules.
Our woollen clothing keeps other bodily odours to a minimum.
The afternoon was spent getting supplies for the ride south to the Salar, browsin, internet and snacking.
Deirdre has developed a fetish for ice creams, especially those with chocolate flavouring. The town has few tiendas selling these.
We watched a movie before bed. It was perfect timing, all our electronics had flat batteries after four days camping. It is a shame laptops and Ipods don’t run on bencina!.
13 August
The day was spent resting and stocking up on items for the trip south to Salar de Uyuni, from here the road is quite isolated. We will be camping on the Salar before heading into the southern portion of Bolivia before crossing the border into Chile near San Pedro de Atacama. Possibly 10 or more days from now.
Que sers, Que sera!!
We both have a full set of clean clothes and both leave having not showered for some 6 days. Though both of us had a good foot bath.
I had a Pommy shower before dressing to leave. That of deoderant under my arms!!!
D43, T2.5, Av17, Max30, 8484
Below zero in the morning, heated rapidly
Well, last night was one our coldest nights, we both slept with beanies on and longjohns. Our water bottles had been put inside the tent to stop them from freezing. We now fill two large water bottles near the end of the day for camping. We try to get water from peoples houses, as long as it is potable as most is used for tea, coffee or cooking.
This is the perfect amount of water for a night for two of us. Any extra needed is taken from our water bottles.
We slept into 0700, there was ice inside the tent and the bottles of water were partly frozen.
Importantly the camp site was going to catch the early morning sun, that it did, by 0730 we were bathed in the life giving light, though the warmth was not enough to immediately impact on our very cold hands.
As usual I got the water boiling. It is hard to get much more than a rolling lazy boil up here on the altiplano, a lid on the bowl certainly helps.
Having only 30 odd km to Challapata, we took our time packing, just enjoying the calm morning and even more, the increasing warmth of the sun as it lifted further above the range to our east.
All our gear was dry before we left, my sleeping bag was spread out on the hay stack.
On wheeling our bikes to the track, it was discovered I had a front flat tyre.
Over near the farm house we repaired it. The culprit was a piece of wire from a steel belted radial.
Every where here and in parts of Peru, trucks tyres had been burnt on the asphalt edge of hte roads.
I figure the truck drivers must burn the tyres off their rims before leaving, it would also offer warmth and a warning to other motorists.
There are these circular burn marks at regular intervals on most main roads.
We wandered around the farm house, it was an interesting insight into rural life on the altiplano.
Cattle, half a dozen were tethered in a dug out hollow and feed with the straw. Their waster was collected, dried and used for fuel.
The house was partly built of a rock that was predominantly made up of eceaninic fossils, indicating this whole area may have been under the sea many moons agos.
The riding was more of the same.
Still gently downhill, Lago Poopo to our right, not visible but a glistening mirage.
The ranges around us were ever changing as the sun rose further in the sky.
In the first and last light of the day, it was as though they were lit with their own light source. The beauty of their presence was inspirational.
By about 1200 we reached Challapata.
Finding an Alojamiento was a big job, riding almost every dusty street in town during our search.
The half dozen located were either unattended, full or closed.
We decided to have lunch at a busy restaurant.
Soup and a mutton main were enjoyed, Deirdre opted for soup and bread only.
I always have some medicine out of a glass bottle with my meals.
Only from glass.
Coke that is. At home I don’t touch the stuff, firstly because it is a rip off and secondly it is rarely available in glass. Not to mention the teaspoon of sugar in every 100ml.
Well on this journey I have adopted a different attitude to this drink. It provides sugar, which is burnt almost daily. This may sound crazy but I think it cleans out the gut a bit. That’s my excuse to Deirdre, who won’t touch it, even here.
At 17c for a small bottle, naturally chilled and always the same brew, I am happy partaking.
Deirdre is very particular with her cleanliness when eating. Often using a gel handcleaner.
We differ greatly here, Though not being unhygienic, it is important for me to expose myself to the local germ population where possible.
By this, I mean eating all manner of street food, not washing fruit, using my hands to eat bones in a meal.
Though more importantly, doing as the locals do.
Deirdre is quietly disgusted, though sometimes not, at some aspects of my casualness with regards to food and hygiene.
This provides some humour.
Sick, I have been, though in the big picture, these days have been few.
The Victor Alojamiento, was most importantly bathed in natural sun. I would recommend this alojamiento due to the wamth and coziness in the sun it provides.
We both did a heap of washing, by hand in frightfully cold water. The hot sun and desert dry air had our woollen gear almost dry in a couple of hours.
There were no showers here, we are now 4 days without a shower, neither of us stink as far as we are concerned.
Though last night in the camp we both agreed the presence of soxygen required the culprits were kept in the tent vestibules.
Our woollen clothing keeps other bodily odours to a minimum.
The afternoon was spent getting supplies for the ride south to the Salar, browsin, internet and snacking.
Deirdre has developed a fetish for ice creams, especially those with chocolate flavouring. The town has few tiendas selling these.
We watched a movie before bed. It was perfect timing, all our electronics had flat batteries after four days camping. It is a shame laptops and Ipods don’t run on bencina!.
13 August
The day was spent resting and stocking up on items for the trip south to Salar de Uyuni, from here the road is quite isolated. We will be camping on the Salar before heading into the southern portion of Bolivia before crossing the border into Chile near San Pedro de Atacama. Possibly 10 or more days from now.
Que sers, Que sera!!
We both have a full set of clean clothes and both leave having not showered for some 6 days. Though both of us had a good foot bath.
I had a Pommy shower before dressing to leave. That of deoderant under my arms!!!
Llangues, shoes so commonly worn by many people here, made from car tyres
Muts with these ribbons on their necks have been vaccinated against Rabies
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Challapata the last big town before the Salar and the Chilean border maybe 10 plus days away
Ocuro Grande, so typical of tiny pueblitos along the road most tucked under the range to the east
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