browsinaboutonabike.com
  • Armenia 18/4/2016
  • Baku, Azerbaijan
  • Georgia
  • 2-3/4/2016 Trabzon to Batumi, Georgia
    • 21-27/3/2016 Atakent to Trabzon >
      • 12-21/3/2016 Cide to Akakent >
        • 6-11/3/2016 Eregli to Cide
  • 26/2-4/3/2016 Istanbul to Eregli
    • Istanbul 15-25/2/2016 >
      • London 30/1-15/2/2016 >
        • Istanbul 19-30/1/2016
  • Proposed Journey East from Istanbul, March 2016
  • Sth Africa 6-19/1/2016
    • South Africa 6/12/2015 to 6/1/2016
  • Namibia 24/10-5/12/2015
    • Namibia 1/10/2015 to 23/10/2015
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 21/8/2015 Malawi
  • 30/7-20/8/2015 Kigoma to Malawi Border
    • 21-30/7/2015 Tanzanian border to Kigoma, Lake Tanganyika >
      • 18-20/7/2015 Kigali to Tanzanian border >
        • 12-15/7/2015 Gisenyi to Kigali >
          • 10-11/7/2015 Rwandan border to Gisenyi
          • 15th June to 8th July Uganda
  • Last days in Kenya
    • 1-6/6/2015 Meru to Nyahururu >
      • 28-31/05/2015 Kenol to Meru >
        • 2011-16 Map >
          • 12-18/10/2014 Beausejour to St Laurent do Maroni >
            • 7-11/10/2014 St Georges to Beausejour, French Guiana >
              • 3-7/10/2014 Amapá, Brazil to St Georges, French Guiana >
                • 1-2/10/2014 Porto Grande to Amapá, AP >
                  • 26-29/9/2014 Macapá to Porto Grande >
                    • 16-23/9/2014 Almeirim to Macapá >
                      • 11-16/9/2014 Rurópolis to Almeirim, PA,BR >
                        • New Page
                        • 13/8-10/9/2014 Rurópolis, BR to Christchurch, NZ, return >
                          • 2-12/8/2014 Altamira to Ruropolis >
                            • 1-4/8/2014 Pacajá to Altamira, PA >
                              • 29/7-1/8/2014 Marabá to Pacajá, PA, BR230
        • 21-28/5/2015 Ongata to Kenol >
          • 5-21/5/2015 Iten to Ongata Rongai, Nairobi >
            • 2-6/5/2015 Kitale to Iten >
              • 1-2/5/2015 Lodwar to Kitale, Kenya >
                • Kenya: Omorate to Lodwar 20/04- 1/05/2015
  • 12-18/4/2015 Abra Minche to Omorate, Ethiopia
    • 3-10/4/2015 Waliso to Abra Minch >
      • 16-30/3/2015 Dese to Waliso, Ethiopia >
        • Ethiopia 9-16/3/2015 Me'kele to Dese >
          • 19/2-8/3/2015 Ethiopia
  • 25/1-18/2/2015 Sudan
  • 16-17 Luxor to Aswan
    • 8-15/1/2015 Asyut to Luxor >
      • 7-10/1/2015 Giza to Asyut
  • 1-6/1/2015 Cairo
    • Proposed passage Cairo to Cape Town Jan 2015 >
      • 21/10-12/11/2014 Suriname and Guyana
  • Updated Gear List
  • Rodovia Transamazônica
  • 21- 25/7/2014 Redencáo to Marabá, PA
    • Pará: 17-22/7/2014 Confresa, MT to Redencao, PA >
      • 9-13/7/2014 Nova Xavantina to Confreza, MT >
        • 3-4/7/2014 Barra do Garcas to Nova Xavantina >
          • 26-31/6/2014 Rondonópolis to Barra Do Garcas, MT >
            • 20-23/6/2014 Rio Verde, MS to Rondonópolis, MT >
              • 13-17/6/2014 Bonito to Rio Verde de Mato Grosso >
                • 9-11/6/2014 Jardim to Bonito MS, BR >
                  • 7-9/6/2014 Pedro Juan Caballero, PY to Jardim,BR >
                    • 9,10,11/5/2014 Remanso to Concepción onboard MV Osmar >
                      • 6-7/5/2014 Remanso,PY >
                        • 6/5/2014 Asunción to Remanso, PY >
                          • 27/4-2/5/2014 Foz do Iguaco, BR to Asunción, PY >
                            • 24-26/4/2014 Andresito to Puerto Iguazu >
                              • 19-21/4/2014 El Soberbio to San Antonio, AR >
                                • 16-17/4/2014 El Progreso to El Soberbio, AR >
                                  • 13-15/4/2014 Apóstoles to El Progreso >
                                    • 28/3-1/4/2014 Buenos Aires,AR to Paysandu, UY >
                                      • Profile Paysandu to Brazil
                                    • 9-12/4/2014 Tapebicuá to Apóstoles, AR >
                                      • 8/4/2013 Sawmill, north of Bonpland to 3km sth of Tapebicuá
                    • 28-30/5/2014 Concepción to Pedro Juan Caballero PY >
                      • 23-25/5/2014 Aquidaban back to Concepción >
                        • 16-20/5/2014 Tres Gigantes Estación Biologica >
                          • 14-16/5/2014 Vallemi to Bahia Negra on the Aquidaban >
                            • 13/5/2014 Bus trip Concepción to Vallemi
                    • 1-6/6/2014, Pedro Juan Caballero
  • 25/1/2014 USHUAIA
    • 23-24/1/2014 Rio Grande to Rio Lasifashaj >
      • 22-23/1/2013 Punta Arenas, CL to Rio Grande, AR >
        • 16-19/1/2014 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas >
          • 14-15/1/2014 Torres Del Paine National Park, CL >
            • 8-12/1/2014 El Calafate to Puerto Natales >
              • 1-7/1/2013 Villa O'Higgins, CL to El Calafate, AR >
                • 27-31/12/2013 Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins >
                  • 19-26/12/2013 Coyhaique to Cochrane >
                    • 12-18/12/2013 Rio Santiago Bastia to Coyhaique >
                      • 6-12/12/2013 La Piedra del Gato to Mañihuales >
                        • 5-9/12/2013 Quellón to La Junta, CL >
                          • 29/11/2013 5/12/2013 Castro to Quellón, Chiloe, CL >
                            • 24/11/2013 Puerto Montt to Castro >
                              • 16-23/11/2013, San Martín, AR to Puerto Montt, CL >
                                • 9-14/11/2013 Temuco, CL to San Martín de los Andes, AR
                                • Cunco to Temuco and Santiago by bus
                                • Untitled
                                • 20,21/10/2013 Malargue to Los Frisos,AR
                                • 22-29/10/2013 Las Frisas, AR to Cunco,CL
  • 13/3/2012 Penonomé to Playa Gorgona
    • 14/3/2011 Playa Gorgona to Panama City
    • 15,16/3/2011 Panama City >
      • 14/4/2012, Shelter bay & Gatun Locks >
        • 15,16/4/2012 Canal transit >
          • 17/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina onboard SV Bijou >
            • Feb 2014, An account of a road trip in New Zealand
          • 18,19/4/2012 Shelter Bay Marina
      • 17.../3/2012 Onboard SV Moondance, Brisas de Amador >
        • 25 March to 9 April, Gorgona, PC,Las Bresas >
          • 11/4/2012, Shelter Bay Marina,SV Bijou
          • 12/4/2012, Shelter Bay, and a bit of exploring
        • 11/3/2012 Las Lajas to Santiago >
          • 12/3/2012, Santiago to Penonomé
  • 7/4/2013 Bella Unión, UY to north of Bonpland, AR
    • 4-6/4/2014 Salto to Bella Unión, UY >
      • 2-3/4/2014 Termas de Guaviyú to Salto
  • Overnight Stop Map
    • 20-27/4/2012 Passage Portobelo to Santa Marta, Colombia
    • 28-29/2012 Santa Marta
  • Chile to Argentina (click on this header for an entry)
    • 6/9/2013 59km up the road camping
    • 7/9/2013 the corner to Paso Jama, Argentina
    • 8/9/2013 Paso Jama to adobe ruins on Salar de Olaroz
    • 9/9/2013 Ruins to south of Susques
    • 10/9/2013 Sth of Susques to bottom of range, camping >
      • 11/9/2013 bottom of the range to Purmamarca
      • 12/9/2013 Purmamarca to Lake campground near Salta >
        • 13,14/9/2013 Dique Cobre Corral to Salta,AR >
          • Salta south >
            • 17/9/2013 Quebrada De Las Conchas to Cafayate
      • 19/9/2013 Cafayate to 15km to Rio El Tesaro, camping >
        • 20/9/2013 Rio El Tesaro to Rio Belén, sth of Hualfin
      • 21/9/2013 Rio Belén to Belén >
        • 22/9/2013 Belén to a creek bed 42km sth
        • 23/9/2013 creek bed to 10km nth of Pituil
        • 25/9/2013 north of Pituil to Chilecito
        • 25-30/9/2013 Chilecito, AR
        • 1-7/10/2013 Chilecito to Caucete, AR >
          • 9-12/10/2013 Caucete to Tunuyán, AR
      • 13-15/10/2013 Caucete to San Rafael, AR >
        • 17/10/2013 San Rafael to Malargue, AR
  • Chile from 28/8/2013
    • 29/8/2013 Ascotán to Chiu Chiu
    • 30/8/2013 Chiu Chiu to Calama, CL
    • 31/8,1/9/2013 Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, CL
  • 20/7/2013 Titicaca area to Bolivian border
    • 20/7/2013 Sicuani to Santa Rosa >
      • 21/7/2013 Santa Rosa to Juliaca >
        • 22/7/2013 Juliaca to 6km past Huancané >
          • 23/2013 Huancané to Conima, camping >
            • 24/7/2013 near Conima, Peru to Puerto Acosta, Bolivia >
              • 25/7/2013 Puerto Acosta to Nth of Ancoraimes
  • 26/7/2013 Nth of Ancoraimes to Achacachi
    • 27/7/2013 Achacachi to Copacabana >
      • 28,29/7/2013 Copacabana BO, Kasani PE, Copa. BO
      • 30/7/2013 Copacabana, BO to Desaguadero, PE
      • 31/7/2013 Desaguadero, PE to El Alto, BO
      • 1,2/8/2013 El Alto to La Paz
      • 3,4,5/8/2013 La Paz
      • 8/08/2103 La Paz to Nth of Ayo Ayo, Camping
      • 9/8/2013 Nth of Ayo Ayo to south of Villa, camping >
        • 10/8/2013 Sth of Villa to just sth of Oruro, camping >
          • 11/8/2013 Sth of Ororo to Sth of Pazna, camping >
            • 12/8/2013 Sth of Poopo to Challapata >
              • 13,to17/8/2013 Challapata to Jirira 18-26/8 to Ollague,Chile
  • Peru 20/4/2013.....
    • 20-22/4/2013, Macará to Olmos, PE
    • 23-27/4/2013 Olmos to Chachapoyas,PE
    • 27/4/2013, Chachapoyas, PE
    • Chachapoyas to Cajamarca, PE >
      • 1/5/2013 Lejmebamba to Cerros de Calla-Calla >
        • 2/5/2013 Cerros de Calla-Calla to Balsas >
          • 3/4/2013 Balsas to a farm house overlooking Limon >
            • 4/5/2013 farm house campsite to south of Celendin >
              • 5,6/5/2013 Sth of Celendin to Cajamarca
    • 7/5/2013 Cajamarca to 9km before Cajabamba >
      • 8/5/2013, 9 km north of Cajabamba to Laguna Sousacocha >
        • 11/5/2013 Haumachuco to Trujillo
        • 9,10/5/2013 Laguna Sausacocha to Huamachuco
      • 18/5/2013 Lima
      • 23-25/5/2013 Trujillo to Caraz, PE >
        • 26,27/5/2013 Caraz to Huaraz, PE >
          • 28/5/2013 Huaraz to 34km south of Pachocoto,PE >
            • 29/5/2013 Farm 25km past Chacapoto to 12km on Huánuco Rd >
              • 30/5/2013,12km up Huanuco road to camp at 4600m >
                • 31/5/2013 near summit to La Union
    • 1/6/2013 Huánaco to camp near Acobamba >
      • 2,3/6/2013 Camping near Acobamba to Huánuco
    • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to Cuzco and Machu Picchu >
      • 16/6/2013 Huancayo to south of Mariscal Cáceres, camping >
        • 17/6/2013 sth Mariscal Cáceres 4km sthLa Esmeralda,camping >
          • 18/6/2013 Sth of La Esmaralda to Huanta >
            • 19/6/2013 Huanta to Ayacucho
  • 22/6/2013 Ayaucucho to top of pass before Ocros, 4200m
    • 23/6/2013 cerca la cumbre a 5km sur de Puente Pampas >
      • 23/6/2013 Sur de Puente Pampas a 5km este de Uripa >
        • 24/6/2013 above Uripa to Andahualas >
          • 25/6/2013 Andahuaylas to 10km below the summit >
            • 26/6/2013 near the summit to Puente Pachachaca >
              • 29/6/2013 Abancay to Curahuasi >
                • 30/6/2013 Curahuasi to a camp on the Rio Apurimac >
                  • 1/7/2013 Rio Apurimac to Izcuchaca >
                    • 2/7/2013 Izcuchaca and Cuzco >
                      • 4,5/7/2013 Izcuchaca to Cuzco >
                        • 9,10,11/7/2013 Cuzco to Machu Picchu >
                          • 11-16/7/2013 Cuzco >
                            • 17/7/2013 Cuzco to Quiquijana camping on el Rio Vilcanota
              • 27,28/6/2013 Puente Pachachaca to Abancay
  • 4/6/2013 Huánuco to just south of Huariaca
    • 5/6/2013 Huariaco to Cerro De Pasco >
      • 7,8/5/2013 Cerro De Pasco >
        • 8/6/2013 Cerro De Pasco to Junín >
          • 9/6/2013 Junín to 20km south of La Aroya, camping >
            • 10/6/2013 Sth of La Aroya to Huancayo
  • Medellín to Ushuaia, 2013 (april 2013 here,)
    • 31/1/13 Riosucio to Anserma >
      • 1/2/2013 Anserma to Cartago >
        • 6/12/2015 to 4/1/2016 South Africa
        • 2/2/2013 Cartago to Buga >
          • 3/2/2013 Buga all day >
            • 4,5/2/2013 Buga to Cali >
              • 6/2/2013 Cali to Piendamo
    • 27/1 Medellín to Bolombolo
    • 28/1 Bolombolo to La Pintada >
      • 29/1/13 La Pintada to Supia >
        • 30/1/13 Supía to Riosucio
      • 8/2/2013 Timbio to El Bordo >
        • 6/3/2013, San Clemente to Manta, EC >
          • 7/3/2013 Manta,EC all day >
            • 9/3/2013, Manta to Tena by bus >
              • 12,13,14,15 Tena to Limoncocha >
                • 16,17/3/2013 Manta >
                  • 18-23 Manta, Galapagos, Manta >
                    • 24,25/3/2013 Manta to Machalilla NP, EC >
                      • 26/3/2013 Machalillo NP to Machalillo >
                        • 27/3/2013 Machalilla to Puerto Lopez >
                          • 228,29,30/3/2013 Puerto Lopez, EC >
                            • Untitled
                            • 31/3/2013, Puerto Lopez to Ayungue, EC
      • 19/2/2013 Otavalo, Ecuador all day >
        • 20/2/2013 Otavalo to Sth of Otón, Ecuador >
          • 21/2/2013 Otón to Quito >
            • 22,23/2/2013 Quito, Hotel Húngaro >
              • 26/2/2013 Quito to Tandapi, EC
      • 27/2/2013 Tandapi to El Carmen, EC >
        • 28/2/2013, El Carmen to Pedernales, EC >
          • 2/3/2013 Pedernales to Tabuga >
            • 3/3/2013 Tabuga to Canoa >
              • 30/4/2012 Last day Santa Marta >
                • 1/5/2012 Santa Marta to Barranquilla
                • 2/5/2012 Barranquilla to Santa Veronica
                • 3/5/2012 Santa Veronica all day >
                  • 4-5/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 6-7/5/2012 Santa Veronica >
                • 8,9 &10/5/2012 Santa Veronica
              • 11/5/2012 Santa Veronica to Cartagena >
                • 12/5/2012 Cartagena all day >
                  • 13/5/2012 Cartagena to San Jacinto >
                    • 14/5/2012 San Jacinto to Sincelejo >
                      • 15/5/2012 Sincelejo to San Bernado >
                        • 16/5/2012 San Bernado to Puerto Escondido >
                          • 17,18/ 5 /2012, Puerto Escondido >
                            • 19/5/2012, Puerto Escondido to Planeta Rico >
                              • 20/5/2012 Planeta Rica to Caucasia >
                                • Untitled
                                • Untitled
                                • 21/5/2012, Caucasia to Tarazá >
                                  • 22/5/2012, Tarazá to Valdivia >
                                    • 23/5/2012, Valdivia to Yarumal >
                                      • 24/5/2012, Yarumal for the day >
                                        • 25/5/2012 Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                          • 26/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos >
                                            • 27/5/2012, Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin >
                                              • 28/7 2011, Hannibal to Grafton
              • 5/3/2013, Canoa to San Clemente,EC
      • 9/2/2013 El Bordo to Tablon (April 2013 here) >
        • 1/4/2013 Ayungue to Salinas, EC >
          • 2/4/2013 Salinas to Posorjas,EC >
            • 3/4/2013 Posorja to San Carlos,EC >
              • 4/4/2013, San Carlos to Angas,EC >
                • 5/4/2013, Angas to Soldados, EC >
                  • 6/4/2013, Soldados to Cuenca >
                    • 7-9/4/2013, Cuenca, EC >
                      • 10-14/4/2013 Cuenca to Loja >
                        • 14-18/4/2013 Loja to Macará, EC >
                          • 7/2/2013 Piendamo to Timbio
      • 10,11/2/2013 Tablon to Chacahgui
      • 12/2/2013 Chachagui to Yucuanquer
      • 13,14,15/2/2013 Yucuanquer to Ipiales >
        • 16/2/2013 Ipiales to Bolivar, Ecuador >
          • 17/2/2013 Bolivar to nth of Ibarra, Ecuador >
            • 18/2/2013 Nth of Ibarra to Otavalo, Ecuador
    • Colombia 2012
  • Terrain Profiles
  • Nicaragua
  • Blog
  • Memphis to Venice, LA
  • Home and August entries
    • 8/8/2011 Sweetwater to Salida >
      • 9/8/2011 Salida to 3m North of Cripple Creek, CO >
        • 10/8/2011 Cripple Creek to Phantom Canyon >
          • 11/8/2011 Phantom Canyon to Pueblo >
            • 12/8/2011 Kansa to Warrensberg, MO >
              • 13/8/2011 Warrensberg to Clinton, MO >
                • 14/8/2011 Clinton to Sedalia >
                  • 15/8/2011 Sedalia to Tipton >
                    • 16/8/2011 Tipton all day >
                      • 17/8/2011 Tipton to Red Oak Park ,Lake of the Ozarks >
                        • 18/8/2011 Lake of the Ozarks all Day >
                          • 19/8/2011 Red Oak all day >
                            • 20/8/2011 Red Oak Park to Boonville >
                              • 21/8/2011 Boonville to Columbia >
                                • 22/8/2011 Columbia all day >
                                  • Untitled
                                  • 22/8/2011 Columbia to Portland >
                                    • 24/8/2011 Portland to Defiance >
                                      • 25/8/2011 Machens to Portage Des Sioux >
                                        • 26,27,28/8/2011Portage Des Sioux to Alton >
                                          • 29/8/2011 Alton to Columbia >
                                            • 30/8/2011 Columbia to Chester >
                                              • 31/8/2011 Chester to Grand Tower >
                                                • 1/9/2011 Grand Tower, IL to Wickliffe, KY >
                                                  • 2/9/2011 Wickliffe to Columbia, KY >
                                                    • 5/9/2011Tiptonville TN to Ripley TN
                                                    • Untitled
                                                    • 3-4/9/2011 Colmbus to Hickman, KY >
                                                      • 6/9/2011 Ripley Meeman- Shelby SP >
                                                        • Untitled
                                                        • 7/9/2011 Meeman-Shelby to Memphis
    • The proposed itinerary
    • A few words about the river
    • My Bike
    • Journal- Intro
    • Journal Entries late July early August >
      • 29/7/11 Grafton all day >
        • 30/7/2011 Grafton To Alton >
          • 31/7/11 Alton all day >
            • 1/8/2011 Alton all day >
              • 2,3/8/2011 Alton to Colarado Springs >
                • 3/8/2011 Colarado Springs >
                  • 4/8/2011, Colarado Springs >
                    • 5/8/2011 Colarado Springs Day 2
                  • 6/8/2011 Pueblo Dakota Springs >
                    • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot Springs to Texas Creek >
                      • 7/8/2011 Dakota Hot springs to Texas Creek
    • The Gear list
  • Sydney to International Falls
    • IF to Northome >
      • Northome to Three Island Lake >
        • Three Island Lake to Itasca State Park >
          • Itasca Park full day 1 >
            • Itasca Park full day 2
  • Itasca to 4m north of Walker
    • 21/6/11 Walker to dare I say it Park Rapids
    • 22/6/11 Park Rapids all day >
      • 23/6/11 Park Rapids to sth of Walker
    • 24/6/11 Sth of Walker to Oak Haven Resort
    • 25/6/11 Oak Haven to Bena
    • 26/6/11 Bena for the day >
      • 27/6/11 Bena, from my tent to the shop and back
  • 28/6/11 Bena to Grand Rapids
  • 29/06/11 Grand Rapids to Pallisade
    • 30/06/11 Palisade to Crosby
    • 1/07/11 Crosby to Royalton
    • 2/07/2011 Royalton to St Cloud >
      • 3/07/2011 St Cloud to Monticello >
        • 4/7/2011 Monticello to Ham Lake >
          • Ham Lake all day >
            • 6/7/2011 Ham Lake to Prescott, WI >
              • 7/6/2011 Prescott to Pepin
          • 8/7/2011 Pepin to Perrot SP
    • 9/7/2011 Perrot SP to Wabasha, MN
  • 10/7/2011 Wabasha to Hastings
  • 16-17/1/2015 Luxor to Aswan
  • Zambia 7-30/9/2015
  • 11/7/2011 Hastings to Wabasha
    • 12/7/2011 Wabasha to Lansing,IA >
      • 13/7/2011 Lansing all day >
        • 14/7/2011 Lansing to Pikes Peak SP >
          • 15/7/2011 Pikes peak SP to Dubuque, IA >
            • 16/7/2011, Dubuque to Bellevue >
              • 17/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                • 18/7/2011, Pleasant Creek CG all day >
                  • 19/7/2011, Bellevue to Silvas, IL
          • 20/7/2011, Moline for the Day >
            • 21/7/2011, Moline to Loud Thunder Park >
              • 22/7/2011, Loud Thunder park to Keithsberg >
                • 23/07/2011, Keithbergs to Fort madison, IA >
                  • 24/7/2011, Fort Madison to Nauvoo
                • 25/7/2011, Nauvoo to Quincy >
                  • 26/7/2011 Quincy all day
    • Granada to Panama, Feb 27 >
      • 9, 10/3/2011 Servo to Playa Las Lajas
  • 8/5/2017 Tehran
16/11/2013 San Martín to bush camp

D50,T5, Av13.49, Max55, Tot22059, 12260

One of the nicest days for awhile


The rain had left us with a crystal clear, warm cloudless day.

Needless to say we arose late. The hostal was not vacated till almost 1200.

We had arranged to meet Marco about then.

He was going to ride with us for  a couple of days .

Once we got organised and united we rode to the lake shore then took the scenic road out of town.

There were a few yachts and power boats anchored in the bay with people wandering along the foreshore or just sitting about enjoying the warm clear day.

It was a 14km climb to Cerro Chapelco.

Marco had to change a tyre on the way up, his front tyre was bulging, they are so thin compared to our 2 inch editions.

There were dozens of other cyclists riding road and mountain bikes enjoying the great terrain.

We were taking the the Ruta de los Siete Lagos. A very scenic wander past a few lagoons and lakes.

The day was wind free, which made it even more enjoyable.

Lunch was had alongside a river, here Cal went for a chilly dip.

We all enjoyed a few coca leaves after lunch and meandered on.

At a farm we collected some water. The guy had a surface pump to draw ground water. We all commented on our good the water tasted.

It was so sweet and cold. We wished we had of filled the bladder.

We found a camp amongst the trees on a disused track about 1830.

Just after dark a couple of dogs turned up with a farmer on a horse.

He was checking to see we weren’t cattle rustlers, it is apparently a problem here.

Cal and I put the tarp up over the tent to lift the dew above out tent.

A full moon rose above the range to our east through the trees.

It was like a big white icy ball.

The cool damp air saw us in our tents at 0915.

Again it was great to be camping on grass.

 

 

 

 17/11/2013 Camping on the shores of Lago Correntos

D41, T4, Av13, max52 tot22099, 12301

Fine and mild.


We all slept in, it was that kind of morning. Once back on the road, 1km on , there was a perfect campground on the shores of yet another small lake.

We were not to know this, and took photos of the picture perfect spot, back dropped with mountains, whilst in the foreground was a fly fisherperson in waist deep water, presenting some feathers on a hook to a trout hopefully within his reach.

His figure within the water was like a spot of dirt on a mirror.

The mid morning lake surface was as smooth and reflective as that.

Soon the road became gravel.

Marcos rubber band like tyres could not handle the stones. There just wasn’t enough air space in them to stop the tryes cutting the tube on the rim.

We patched a couple of holes.

Some few km on he got another puncture. At a bridge he decided to catch a lift, we rode on.

Climbing up one hill, a van came past and stopped, Marco was in the front seat with a couple of Spanish guys who were touring about.

At the end of the graval Marco was waiting. Timing was perfect, the van was slow, he had only been there for fifteen minutes.

It was good to be back together again.

We asked a guy at the intersection about the road ahead. He told us of a camp ground on Lago Corentoso.

We road in here to an idyllic location on the lake. Many people were cooking on fires.

We pulled into the kioscko and asked if they did meals.

A little questioning by the attendant saw us enjoy the leftovers fronm the family who were dining out the back.

We had potatoes and great chunks of beef asado complimented with salad.

From here we rode further around the lake and found an open area with many families and groups bbq’ing and picnicking on the grass by the lake.

Park benches were supplied.

We set up in the only available spot under some trees, bought a few long necks and relaxed and talked with some of the locals.

By 2000 we had the whole place to ourselves, it was Sunday evening.

Little was had for dinner as the effects of our big lunch were still keeping hunger at bay.

Cal did a bit of fishing with no luck, while Marco and I played chess.

 

18/11/2013 Lago Villareno to up the hill to Chile

D50, T3/7, Av15, Max66, Tot 22150, 12351

Very cold morning, perfect day


 

With Cals tent between our two. Cal  decided to spend a night in his tent. He was to be the umpire to see who could snore the loudest out of Marco or myself.

The morning revealed a very close contest had been fought all night long.

Due to the crowds picnicking here yesterday we decided to set up our tents under some overhanginging trees in the eastern sector of the park.

We did not get any sun in the morning.

It was feezing literally, we had no chance of seeing the sun on our tents before midday.

Upon getting up, I found we had received a frost.

My airbed had gone down during the night. Possibly a thorn had pierced it the night before, the site was riddled with holly like plants and dry thorny leaves were in the grass.

Inspection of the mattress under water in the lakes shallows thankfully revealed the leak was from the deflation valve.

The bed had received a wash, in the process my hands were frozen.

We all moved our gear out into the sun to eventually dry.

It was such a nice day here, we had the place to ourselves.

We decided to stay a bit longer.

Marco and I finished off our chess game over a mate.

We all took a dip in the lake, to say it was cold was an understatement.

Immersion within the waters was invigoratingly refreshing.

At one point, probably 1000 feet or more above the craggy range to east, were three Condors, cruising on thermals. Their fingered wing tips identify them through my monocular.

They reduced altitude at one point, their huge wingspan was revealed when put in perspective against the mountain.

They still appeared quite large.

It is always a moment of revelation and speciality for me when these great birds are seen.

 It’s like a tap on the shoulder, reminding me of my presence here in this wondrously  grand mountain range, that I often ponder.

After some time, the great birds chose an air stream that saw them disappear to the west, to take them into their most familiar airspace.

That of the sky over the Andes proper.

The next day would see us once again traverse this mountain range, through Paso cardinal A Samoré, back to Chile.

We finally got away about 1200, in no hurry we enjoyed the spectacular ride along the edge of lake Correntoso.

One river flowing under the road was as clearer river as I have seen. The waters were glass like. Logs snagged below the surface were sharply defined.

Snow clad mountains framed most vistas.

This Ruta de los 7 lagos was cycling at its best for me, with good short climbs followed by a rush back down. The road surface was new and smooth.

Every corner revealed a new vista or the expanse of blue water from another portion of a lake.

It was a kind of place where all the best things in nature had come together.

Perfect day, blue water, lush vegetation,  no wind, birds calling, snow clad mountains, those only barren and a mixture of sun and shade along the passage.

All this was shared with other cyclists on mountain bikes. 

Soon we reached the turnoff to Chile.

Cal and I needed supplies, the three of us  headed down to Villa La Angostura, on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi.

Here we enjoyed lunch in a cafe. The town was even more touristy than San Martín.

 Marco offered to come to a supermarket with us, to keep an eye on our bikes.

We said our goodbyes.

The last 3 days riding with him have been a pleasure. We all enjoyed each others company.

This was always laced with humour.

The richness of his company more than made up for his bike, which really wasn’t up to handling all the conditions Patagonia could throw at it.

Seeing him riding a loaded road racing bike was a sight to be seen.

Every time we passed each other on the road, one of us would say “Looks like you could do with a push” in a cheeky way.

It was indeed a few good days together with a great guy.

Cal and I left town about 1700, it was an undulating but always rising ride back up to the road to Chile.

Once on this we continued to climb.

We found a campsite way off the road in the heavy bush, much of it Coihue (Nothofagus dombeyi), a large evergreen tree and a  Bamboo.

We found a clearing on a track that would give us the morning sun early.

The soil was a sandy cream pumice, so common here. Water was not available. Cal took his bike and the bladder and found water back on the highway at a stream.

It was a cool evening, we ate bread with soup and soon retired to my tent.  

19/11/2013 bush camp to 6km from Chileno Aduanas

D58, T4/7, Av16, Max60, Tot22208,  12409

Cool morning, warm day, cool wind on tops


The sun found our camp in the bush about 0800. There had been a frost. So prior to the suns presence it was cold, though no breeze was blowing.

There had been an exceptionally heavy dew as well, all this especially that inside the fly had not frozen.

We had coffee and porridge and were on the road by 1000.

We soon reached AR aduanas and did our formalities here and tried to get electricity for our laptops. Only one power point was located so we didn’t stay long.

Some 1.5km after the aduanas we came across a river that looked it might be riddled with trout. We took our bikes down through deep pumice sand and had a fish.

Rio Pire had no trout or at least none that liked our lure.

We spent an hour here then headed off up the range.

It was a slow climb to the top.

The scenery as usual in the Andes was breath taking. All the open areas were covered in a cream aggregate of pumice.

The tops were covered in patchy snow. Some of the rock formations at the peaks of some ranges were instantly eye catching.

Here we were in this heavily vegetated area and above us these barren light coloured craggy ranges made for such a contrast.

We stopped to filter water out of a creek, though the stream was crystal clear we still took no chances.

At another stream we enjoyed lunch on the rocky edge of the watercourse.

Once at the top we stopped for a change of gear.

Time was spent with a couple from originally from BA who were travelling in a motorhome.

They were an interesting couple. The husband Mike was enjoyable company for the short time we were together.

From here we had 20 odd km to Chileno Aduanas.

The ride was predominantly downhill. Though the road was in poor condition with an unreliable asphalt surface in places riddled with baches (potholes)

Once at the Chileno Aduanas, we were searched for the first time. Our panniers had to be emptied.

All was good.

Speaking to a one of the customs guys he said they have a problem with Didymo and are trying to keep it out of Chile. They hose down any boats coming through. AR has it in some rivers and lakes.

We stopped here also for Empanadas and a coke.

Riding on, now in much milder conditions in heavy forest, it was 1900, we needed a camp.

Soon some open farm country was spotted. In amongst this was a church, at the back of this we set up camp. A perfect spot for the night with water on tap.

Callum was pretty worn out after the climbing for the early part of the day.

He is now getting used to the life on the road, that of really having to be nowhere at any particular time. Also that of living a bit frugally. Eating pasta, packet soups, bread and dulce de leche.

It is great to have him along, like his dad he enjoys the outdoors and a bit of a challenge.

He is sleeping well to say the least.

The tubes of vegemite are a real treat.

20/11/2013 Church 6km past customs to disused substation, intersection U-91&U-775

D73, 4/8, Av17.26, Max74, Tot22281, 12482

Another great day

 The sun reached camp early as it found its way through a gap in the trees around the boundary fence of the church grounds.

Though with our “no hurry” attitude we did not get away till 1000.

We even had water here and a toilet.

Once on the road it was up hill and down dale for the whole trip to Entre Lagos.

Coming down one hill Lago Puyehue came into view. It was a large body of water, at the time displaying small surface waves from wind blowing along its length.

The country side as usual in Chile so far was lush with thick vegetation and much of the rampant Bamboo amongst this greenness.

Crews of at ten guys were whipper snipping the roadside.

A daunting task though in numbers they cover a few km in no time.

Arriving in Entre Lagos we stocked up at the supermarket.

We headed to the lakefront and enjoyed bead, avocados, cheese, salami, orange juice and bananas.

Most vistas now contain at least one volcano.

Also in town we used the net for an hour or so to charge our electronics.

My bike was making a strange grating sound when pedalling only. It was found the Hollowtech bottom bracket bearings has gone again. It is always the one on the chain side.

There is slop in it.

So far in 20 odd thousand km I have had to replace one in Nicaragua, Peru and now Chile.

They last about 6000km.

Other cyclists spoken to have had to replace this Shimano part.

With the weight I carry and the force exerted on the chain side to the bearings, this distance is all they seem to last.

 Hopefully this and  axle bearings will be  replaced in Purto Montt.

By the time we left Entre Lagos it was 1700.

These days it is not getting dark till almost 2100 so we can ride till 2000 if necessary.

Well today that was necessary.

We stopped at the road bridge above the river draining Lago Rupanco hoping to find a campsite for some fishing, none could be found, it was all fenced.

Some young guys on the bridge were catching trout.

By now it was 1900, we loaded up with water so we could camp anywhere and headed up the road out of the river valley.

It was steady climbed as expected surrounded such a large water shed.

Once at the top we rode for some time through Eucalypt plantations on both sides of the road.

The sun only penetrated these areas at midday, the trees were at least 30m tall and straight as pencils.

By now I was wasted and had to have an energy gel, soon we reached the populated intersection of roads U-775 and U-91. Here we asked the carribineros (police) if we could camp in their large property.

No way they said, because of public liability, a far cry from the bomberos ( firemen) and policia of Peru and Bolivia who both gladly enjoyed the company of cyclists.

In this respect Chile is very different from other countries here in SA.

With more capitalism in so called developed nations comes all sorts of restrictions and mistrust of one another. The need for money can lead individuals to look for ways to access it easily.

Occasionally  through blaming someone for so called negligence.

Anyway Cal had spotted a disused power substation on the way into the settlement. We headed back here.

Talk about luxury, we had our own little compound with high concrete walls and an iron gate we could close to obstruct the views from the road.

There was a concrete slab still warm from the days sun, though overgrown with Blackberry, it was the perfect site for the tent.

This was cleared.

Cal cooked up a delightful rice, tuna, onion and spice number.

We finished eating in the fading light at 2130.

You just never know where you will end up each day. Todays camp was perfect given the moisture in the air and damp grass.

21/11/2013  Camping lake shore, Lago Llanquihue  25km north of Puerto Montt

D88, T4.5/8, Av17.64, Max62, Tot22,369,  12,570

Mild with high cloud, little wind.


The morning revealed a heavy fog. It was great to be atop our little piece of concrete.

The inside of the fly was hanging with condensation.

We really had to wait till the sun burnt its way through the fog.

I took time out to shave, five days growth was starting to look a bit shabby, it gets too long and then becomes a hassle to cut.

Cal is keeping a record of our journey he too sat about over coffee typing.

Once on the road we had to get water, which was done at a farmhouse.

For almost all day we were in the company of three volcanoes.

Those of Calbuco, Osorno and Puntiagudo.

A  short section of the road was gravel until we reached the intersection with U99v, luckily traffic was light.

They are all no longer active.

Though at one point on the road you could see where a lava flow had slithered its way from one of the cones.

Vegetation for miles was open and not of large trees.

We stopped at a small creek for a fish. Cal had a couple on but got off.

How many times have you heard this story from fisher persons??

The land use around us was largely dairying with sheep and cattle about.

I for one miss the openness of AR. You could camp anywhere and the landscape was largely unaltered by man.

The landscape here is all farmed with fences making camping difficult without seeking permission.

Cal commented on how much he enjoyed his short ride through AR on the 7 lakes road.

Dorothee wrote and said the Nat Park south of there impressed her even more.

We stopped on the shores of Lago Llanquihue for lunch of bread with vegemite and dulce, sardines and coffee.

Cal fished or half an hour.

The road now was again up and down, it was great variable riding, at Ensenada we stopped for a coke.

From here, the road continued to follow the shores of Lago Llanquihue.

There were Cabañas everywhere, it seemed anyone with a property was offering accommodation.

Many places had German names.

Road works were in progress for much of the way.

It suited us as we rode in the blocked of lane.

An observation made here in this part of Chile, is the lack of friendliness and enthusiasm displayed by some people. From those in businesses, to those on the road, working or standing waiting for a bus or whatever.

Of course, this is not everyone, but it is very noticeable.

It is such a pleasure to see people really enjoying what they are doing, especially in the workplace.

It is like many people are doing things they don’t want to be doing, but have too.

After all, they are in the most developed and stable country in South America.

Some young Chileana girls on the way to Macchu Pichu told me of the monetary disparity in their country.

Maybe these people can see the golden apple of capitalism but will never be able to grasp it, as they would like to.

Unlike Peru, Bolivia and to a lesser extent Ecuador, there appears to be little culture displayed here.

Consumerism is engulfing it.  

Unable to grasp the apple, coupled with no strong culture. Their lives may have become somewhat of a less than exciting existence.

Occasionally, some turn to other means to add excitement to their lives.

Having said this.

Seeing a woman or man in Peru or Bolivia, often in traditional attire and proud of it. With a huge welcoming smile or enthusiasm in their voices, as one rode by does lead me to make these comments.

Argentina, Ecuador and Colombia also had an air of enthusiasm in their people for me.

I feel Chile has changed to rapidly for many.

Some in the wave and are riding it, some are in the white water moving with it, though not on its exciting face. Whilst others are left floundering in its aftermath.

This same scenario exists all over the planet in almost all societies.

If you can’t keep up with the face, immaterial riches become so much more important. Those of culture, friends and family.

It is, after all life!! It is what you make it.

However, these thoughts, are soon forgotten, in the company of most people met along the way here in Chile. 

We wanted to camp within close distance of Puerto Montt.

Still on the shores of the Lago Llanquihue, we spotted a vehicle restricted track to the shores.

Here a great campsite was found on the black sandy beach.

Cal wandered off for a fish. He caught  the smallest trout  seen for awhile.

It was a mild evening, though cold by many standards.

Dinner was lentils, instant peso and chicken soup powder thrown in. A bit of a concoction, but not to bad.

Volcán Osorno overlooked the camp from the north eastern shore across the lake, it was somewhat inconspicuous against the creamy, cloud laden sky.

22/11/2013 Lago Llanquihue to Puerto Montt

D45, T3, Av15, max51, Tot 22413, 12,615

Overcast and mild


Suprisingly, the early morning was very mild with little dew.

I slipped into the lake very early, though waist deep was about all that could be braved  in the frigid waters.

Next to our spot on the beach was a cabaña setup. It was well maintained with freshly cut grass.

One gets the impression, that this is the calm before the storm so to speak.

Referring to the upcoming holiday season, though short it will be at a frenetic pace I feel.

The summers are short here. All this water, fishing, swimming? Partying and  boating coupled with a summers day would be hard to resist.

I parked myself on the beach on my “can’t do without camp stool” and documented a few thoughts and recollections of the day before on my laptop.

I find this time of day when my head is clear after the night’s sleep allows for more creative writing.

It is something I enjoy alot, infact documenting this journey has made it all the more enjoyable.

Once on the road we made a rapid passage to Puerto Varas, a lovely town on the shores of Llanquihue.

Here,  we stopped to watch people casting lures into the lake in the hope of landing a salmon. Of the twenty odd participants, one did land a decent size specimen during our presence.

We stopped in town for empanadas and a browse.

The other night with Marco, we camped in the bush, when just around the corner was a lake not shown on my map.

We bought a sim for Cals  iPhone,  so we can access maps as we progress, that way we can see what’s up ahead.

In towns, this could also be handy.

Though I have come this far without one, it is really a luxury.

It is nice asking people for directions.

Just having my laptop, iPod and little translator is enough electronics in my life for present, it is great.

 Some of that stuff is so time consuming for little outcome.

Especially, when word documents disappear to nonexistent places where they are irretrievable. Namely thin air!

Having a play with Cals new Iphone, it is so damn tempting to buy one. They are like the ears of a Weimarana dog to touch and hold, so smooth and cool. The screen clarity seals the deal. Maybe another time and place.

There will always be a better model available in future. Apple will see to that for me!

Finding a sports shop that sold Ice Breaker gear, two pairs of woollen boxers were bought.

The guy serving me asked, “What size?”,  I said, “Extremely large!” he laughed and said that size is only for Chilenos!

They cost $100, but the wool makes riding even more comfortable.

Wool does not hold smells, unlike the cotton ones I have been wearing for a month or so, between washes, I will add!!

 My others lasted 7 months.

No bike shops had the bottom bracket part, so we had to go to travel onto Puerto Montt.

We used the Pan Americana, it is the first time on this for me since Peru.

It was a rapid passage, gently descending on a good shoulder into Puerto Montt.

Cal was a bit unsettled in the heavy traffic but soon got used to it.

This is the first time at sea level on the bike since Trujillo in on the Peruvian coast.  

We booked the Hostal Central, a comfy place with a kitchen and only Chileanos as guests at the time.

Our room was tiny, though we had a private shower.

In Puerto Varas in confined spaces indoors, we realized how on the nose we were after 6 days in the tent.

We were like Lemmings when it came to the shower.

After this, we hand washed all our dirty gear.

The water was the colour of the AR desert, fascinating it wasn’t.

Cal slept the afternoon while I had to hunt out this bottom bracket part.

Finally, I found one though not Shimano, a tad of a worry. However the guy in the bike shop told me this make is very popular in Spain.

 How it will cope with a load remains to be revealed.

I kept my spare Shimano one in my pannier, just in case I have further troubles.

Tomorrow they will replace the ball bearings in both axles.

Puerto Montt had the feel of an Alaskan city, cloudy rain threatening skies, everyone was rugged up, with that  threat from above becoming reality in the afternoon,  sending us rushing for the clothesline.

Our room had clothing hanging across its whole length for the evening.

Dinner was supermarket roast chook with blanched greens in melted butter.

The internet here at the hostal was working for awhile, then just fizzled out. This is such an annoyance, though sometimes expected.


PictureMuseo de Che, San Martín

PictureLa bahia de San Martín

PicturePrimera noche

Pictureciclistas naturales!

Pictureagua limpiar

PictureTrecera noche en el bosque circa CL

PictureNo trucha!

PictureLa cumbre

PictureVolcán Puntiagudo, CL

PictureVolcán Calbuco

PictureFinca de salmon, Lago Llanquihue

PicturePuerto Montt

PictureChes bici, usado despues escuela para viajes en AR

PictureSangriente Marco!

Picturea un kilómetro de nuestro campamento en la primera noche

PictureBuenas vistas

PictureLlegando el campamento, segunda noche

Pictureúltimo día juntos cerca Villa de Angostura

PictureLos Andes

PictureCerca de la cumbre

PictureLa iglesia

PictureEnsenado

Picture

PictureVolcán Osorno

PicturePescadores Puerto Varas

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