16/11/2013 San Martín to bush camp
D50,T5, Av13.49, Max55, Tot22059, 12260
One of the nicest days for awhile
The rain had left us with a crystal clear, warm cloudless day.
Needless to say we arose late. The hostal was not vacated till almost 1200.
We had arranged to meet Marco about then.
He was going to ride with us for a couple of days .
Once we got organised and united we rode to the lake shore then took the scenic road out of town.
There were a few yachts and power boats anchored in the bay with people wandering along the foreshore or just sitting about enjoying the warm clear day.
It was a 14km climb to Cerro Chapelco.
Marco had to change a tyre on the way up, his front tyre was bulging, they are so thin compared to our 2 inch editions.
There were dozens of other cyclists riding road and mountain bikes enjoying the great terrain.
We were taking the the Ruta de los Siete Lagos. A very scenic wander past a few lagoons and lakes.
The day was wind free, which made it even more enjoyable.
Lunch was had alongside a river, here Cal went for a chilly dip.
We all enjoyed a few coca leaves after lunch and meandered on.
At a farm we collected some water. The guy had a surface pump to draw ground water. We all commented on our good the water tasted.
It was so sweet and cold. We wished we had of filled the bladder.
We found a camp amongst the trees on a disused track about 1830.
Just after dark a couple of dogs turned up with a farmer on a horse.
He was checking to see we weren’t cattle rustlers, it is apparently a problem here.
Cal and I put the tarp up over the tent to lift the dew above out tent.
A full moon rose above the range to our east through the trees.
It was like a big white icy ball.
The cool damp air saw us in our tents at 0915.
Again it was great to be camping on grass.
17/11/2013 Camping on the shores of Lago Correntos
D41, T4, Av13, max52 tot22099, 12301
Fine and mild.
We all slept in, it was that kind of morning. Once back on the road, 1km on , there was a perfect campground on the shores of yet another small lake.
We were not to know this, and took photos of the picture perfect spot, back dropped with mountains, whilst in the foreground was a fly fisherperson in waist deep water, presenting some feathers on a hook to a trout hopefully within his reach.
His figure within the water was like a spot of dirt on a mirror.
The mid morning lake surface was as smooth and reflective as that.
Soon the road became gravel.
Marcos rubber band like tyres could not handle the stones. There just wasn’t enough air space in them to stop the tryes cutting the tube on the rim.
We patched a couple of holes.
Some few km on he got another puncture. At a bridge he decided to catch a lift, we rode on.
Climbing up one hill, a van came past and stopped, Marco was in the front seat with a couple of Spanish guys who were touring about.
At the end of the graval Marco was waiting. Timing was perfect, the van was slow, he had only been there for fifteen minutes.
It was good to be back together again.
We asked a guy at the intersection about the road ahead. He told us of a camp ground on Lago Corentoso.
We road in here to an idyllic location on the lake. Many people were cooking on fires.
We pulled into the kioscko and asked if they did meals.
A little questioning by the attendant saw us enjoy the leftovers fronm the family who were dining out the back.
We had potatoes and great chunks of beef asado complimented with salad.
From here we rode further around the lake and found an open area with many families and groups bbq’ing and picnicking on the grass by the lake.
Park benches were supplied.
We set up in the only available spot under some trees, bought a few long necks and relaxed and talked with some of the locals.
By 2000 we had the whole place to ourselves, it was Sunday evening.
Little was had for dinner as the effects of our big lunch were still keeping hunger at bay.
Cal did a bit of fishing with no luck, while Marco and I played chess.
18/11/2013 Lago Villareno to up the hill to Chile
D50, T3/7, Av15, Max66, Tot 22150, 12351
Very cold morning, perfect day
With Cals tent between our two. Cal decided to spend a night in his tent. He was to be the umpire to see who could snore the loudest out of Marco or myself.
The morning revealed a very close contest had been fought all night long.
Due to the crowds picnicking here yesterday we decided to set up our tents under some overhanginging trees in the eastern sector of the park.
We did not get any sun in the morning.
It was feezing literally, we had no chance of seeing the sun on our tents before midday.
Upon getting up, I found we had received a frost.
My airbed had gone down during the night. Possibly a thorn had pierced it the night before, the site was riddled with holly like plants and dry thorny leaves were in the grass.
Inspection of the mattress under water in the lakes shallows thankfully revealed the leak was from the deflation valve.
The bed had received a wash, in the process my hands were frozen.
We all moved our gear out into the sun to eventually dry.
It was such a nice day here, we had the place to ourselves.
We decided to stay a bit longer.
Marco and I finished off our chess game over a mate.
We all took a dip in the lake, to say it was cold was an understatement.
Immersion within the waters was invigoratingly refreshing.
At one point, probably 1000 feet or more above the craggy range to east, were three Condors, cruising on thermals. Their fingered wing tips identify them through my monocular.
They reduced altitude at one point, their huge wingspan was revealed when put in perspective against the mountain.
They still appeared quite large.
It is always a moment of revelation and speciality for me when these great birds are seen.
It’s like a tap on the shoulder, reminding me of my presence here in this wondrously grand mountain range, that I often ponder.
After some time, the great birds chose an air stream that saw them disappear to the west, to take them into their most familiar airspace.
That of the sky over the Andes proper.
The next day would see us once again traverse this mountain range, through Paso cardinal A Samoré, back to Chile.
We finally got away about 1200, in no hurry we enjoyed the spectacular ride along the edge of lake Correntoso.
One river flowing under the road was as clearer river as I have seen. The waters were glass like. Logs snagged below the surface were sharply defined.
Snow clad mountains framed most vistas.
This Ruta de los 7 lagos was cycling at its best for me, with good short climbs followed by a rush back down. The road surface was new and smooth.
Every corner revealed a new vista or the expanse of blue water from another portion of a lake.
It was a kind of place where all the best things in nature had come together.
Perfect day, blue water, lush vegetation, no wind, birds calling, snow clad mountains, those only barren and a mixture of sun and shade along the passage.
All this was shared with other cyclists on mountain bikes.
Soon we reached the turnoff to Chile.
Cal and I needed supplies, the three of us headed down to Villa La Angostura, on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Here we enjoyed lunch in a cafe. The town was even more touristy than San Martín.
Marco offered to come to a supermarket with us, to keep an eye on our bikes.
We said our goodbyes.
The last 3 days riding with him have been a pleasure. We all enjoyed each others company.
This was always laced with humour.
The richness of his company more than made up for his bike, which really wasn’t up to handling all the conditions Patagonia could throw at it.
Seeing him riding a loaded road racing bike was a sight to be seen.
Every time we passed each other on the road, one of us would say “Looks like you could do with a push” in a cheeky way.
It was indeed a few good days together with a great guy.
Cal and I left town about 1700, it was an undulating but always rising ride back up to the road to Chile.
Once on this we continued to climb.
We found a campsite way off the road in the heavy bush, much of it Coihue (Nothofagus dombeyi), a large evergreen tree and a Bamboo.
We found a clearing on a track that would give us the morning sun early.
The soil was a sandy cream pumice, so common here. Water was not available. Cal took his bike and the bladder and found water back on the highway at a stream.
It was a cool evening, we ate bread with soup and soon retired to my tent.
19/11/2013 bush camp to 6km from Chileno Aduanas
D58, T4/7, Av16, Max60, Tot22208, 12409
Cool morning, warm day, cool wind on tops
The sun found our camp in the bush about 0800. There had been a frost. So prior to the suns presence it was cold, though no breeze was blowing.
There had been an exceptionally heavy dew as well, all this especially that inside the fly had not frozen.
We had coffee and porridge and were on the road by 1000.
We soon reached AR aduanas and did our formalities here and tried to get electricity for our laptops. Only one power point was located so we didn’t stay long.
Some 1.5km after the aduanas we came across a river that looked it might be riddled with trout. We took our bikes down through deep pumice sand and had a fish.
Rio Pire had no trout or at least none that liked our lure.
We spent an hour here then headed off up the range.
It was a slow climb to the top.
The scenery as usual in the Andes was breath taking. All the open areas were covered in a cream aggregate of pumice.
The tops were covered in patchy snow. Some of the rock formations at the peaks of some ranges were instantly eye catching.
Here we were in this heavily vegetated area and above us these barren light coloured craggy ranges made for such a contrast.
We stopped to filter water out of a creek, though the stream was crystal clear we still took no chances.
At another stream we enjoyed lunch on the rocky edge of the watercourse.
Once at the top we stopped for a change of gear.
Time was spent with a couple from originally from BA who were travelling in a motorhome.
They were an interesting couple. The husband Mike was enjoyable company for the short time we were together.
From here we had 20 odd km to Chileno Aduanas.
The ride was predominantly downhill. Though the road was in poor condition with an unreliable asphalt surface in places riddled with baches (potholes)
Once at the Chileno Aduanas, we were searched for the first time. Our panniers had to be emptied.
All was good.
Speaking to a one of the customs guys he said they have a problem with Didymo and are trying to keep it out of Chile. They hose down any boats coming through. AR has it in some rivers and lakes.
We stopped here also for Empanadas and a coke.
Riding on, now in much milder conditions in heavy forest, it was 1900, we needed a camp.
Soon some open farm country was spotted. In amongst this was a church, at the back of this we set up camp. A perfect spot for the night with water on tap.
Callum was pretty worn out after the climbing for the early part of the day.
He is now getting used to the life on the road, that of really having to be nowhere at any particular time. Also that of living a bit frugally. Eating pasta, packet soups, bread and dulce de leche.
It is great to have him along, like his dad he enjoys the outdoors and a bit of a challenge.
He is sleeping well to say the least.
The tubes of vegemite are a real treat.
20/11/2013 Church 6km past customs to disused substation, intersection U-91&U-775
D73, 4/8, Av17.26, Max74, Tot22281, 12482
Another great day
The sun reached camp early as it found its way through a gap in the trees around the boundary fence of the church grounds.
Though with our “no hurry” attitude we did not get away till 1000.
We even had water here and a toilet.
Once on the road it was up hill and down dale for the whole trip to Entre Lagos.
Coming down one hill Lago Puyehue came into view. It was a large body of water, at the time displaying small surface waves from wind blowing along its length.
The country side as usual in Chile so far was lush with thick vegetation and much of the rampant Bamboo amongst this greenness.
Crews of at ten guys were whipper snipping the roadside.
A daunting task though in numbers they cover a few km in no time.
Arriving in Entre Lagos we stocked up at the supermarket.
We headed to the lakefront and enjoyed bead, avocados, cheese, salami, orange juice and bananas.
Most vistas now contain at least one volcano.
Also in town we used the net for an hour or so to charge our electronics.
My bike was making a strange grating sound when pedalling only. It was found the Hollowtech bottom bracket bearings has gone again. It is always the one on the chain side.
There is slop in it.
So far in 20 odd thousand km I have had to replace one in Nicaragua, Peru and now Chile.
They last about 6000km.
Other cyclists spoken to have had to replace this Shimano part.
With the weight I carry and the force exerted on the chain side to the bearings, this distance is all they seem to last.
Hopefully this and axle bearings will be replaced in Purto Montt.
By the time we left Entre Lagos it was 1700.
These days it is not getting dark till almost 2100 so we can ride till 2000 if necessary.
Well today that was necessary.
We stopped at the road bridge above the river draining Lago Rupanco hoping to find a campsite for some fishing, none could be found, it was all fenced.
Some young guys on the bridge were catching trout.
By now it was 1900, we loaded up with water so we could camp anywhere and headed up the road out of the river valley.
It was steady climbed as expected surrounded such a large water shed.
Once at the top we rode for some time through Eucalypt plantations on both sides of the road.
The sun only penetrated these areas at midday, the trees were at least 30m tall and straight as pencils.
By now I was wasted and had to have an energy gel, soon we reached the populated intersection of roads U-775 and U-91. Here we asked the carribineros (police) if we could camp in their large property.
No way they said, because of public liability, a far cry from the bomberos ( firemen) and policia of Peru and Bolivia who both gladly enjoyed the company of cyclists.
In this respect Chile is very different from other countries here in SA.
With more capitalism in so called developed nations comes all sorts of restrictions and mistrust of one another. The need for money can lead individuals to look for ways to access it easily.
Occasionally through blaming someone for so called negligence.
Anyway Cal had spotted a disused power substation on the way into the settlement. We headed back here.
Talk about luxury, we had our own little compound with high concrete walls and an iron gate we could close to obstruct the views from the road.
There was a concrete slab still warm from the days sun, though overgrown with Blackberry, it was the perfect site for the tent.
This was cleared.
Cal cooked up a delightful rice, tuna, onion and spice number.
We finished eating in the fading light at 2130.
You just never know where you will end up each day. Todays camp was perfect given the moisture in the air and damp grass.
21/11/2013 Camping lake shore, Lago Llanquihue 25km north of Puerto Montt
D88, T4.5/8, Av17.64, Max62, Tot22,369, 12,570
Mild with high cloud, little wind.
The morning revealed a heavy fog. It was great to be atop our little piece of concrete.
The inside of the fly was hanging with condensation.
We really had to wait till the sun burnt its way through the fog.
I took time out to shave, five days growth was starting to look a bit shabby, it gets too long and then becomes a hassle to cut.
Cal is keeping a record of our journey he too sat about over coffee typing.
Once on the road we had to get water, which was done at a farmhouse.
For almost all day we were in the company of three volcanoes.
Those of Calbuco, Osorno and Puntiagudo.
A short section of the road was gravel until we reached the intersection with U99v, luckily traffic was light.
They are all no longer active.
Though at one point on the road you could see where a lava flow had slithered its way from one of the cones.
Vegetation for miles was open and not of large trees.
We stopped at a small creek for a fish. Cal had a couple on but got off.
How many times have you heard this story from fisher persons??
The land use around us was largely dairying with sheep and cattle about.
I for one miss the openness of AR. You could camp anywhere and the landscape was largely unaltered by man.
The landscape here is all farmed with fences making camping difficult without seeking permission.
Cal commented on how much he enjoyed his short ride through AR on the 7 lakes road.
Dorothee wrote and said the Nat Park south of there impressed her even more.
We stopped on the shores of Lago Llanquihue for lunch of bread with vegemite and dulce, sardines and coffee.
Cal fished or half an hour.
The road now was again up and down, it was great variable riding, at Ensenada we stopped for a coke.
From here, the road continued to follow the shores of Lago Llanquihue.
There were Cabañas everywhere, it seemed anyone with a property was offering accommodation.
Many places had German names.
Road works were in progress for much of the way.
It suited us as we rode in the blocked of lane.
An observation made here in this part of Chile, is the lack of friendliness and enthusiasm displayed by some people. From those in businesses, to those on the road, working or standing waiting for a bus or whatever.
Of course, this is not everyone, but it is very noticeable.
It is such a pleasure to see people really enjoying what they are doing, especially in the workplace.
It is like many people are doing things they don’t want to be doing, but have too.
After all, they are in the most developed and stable country in South America.
Some young Chileana girls on the way to Macchu Pichu told me of the monetary disparity in their country.
Maybe these people can see the golden apple of capitalism but will never be able to grasp it, as they would like to.
Unlike Peru, Bolivia and to a lesser extent Ecuador, there appears to be little culture displayed here.
Consumerism is engulfing it.
Unable to grasp the apple, coupled with no strong culture. Their lives may have become somewhat of a less than exciting existence.
Occasionally, some turn to other means to add excitement to their lives.
Having said this.
Seeing a woman or man in Peru or Bolivia, often in traditional attire and proud of it. With a huge welcoming smile or enthusiasm in their voices, as one rode by does lead me to make these comments.
Argentina, Ecuador and Colombia also had an air of enthusiasm in their people for me.
I feel Chile has changed to rapidly for many.
Some in the wave and are riding it, some are in the white water moving with it, though not on its exciting face. Whilst others are left floundering in its aftermath.
This same scenario exists all over the planet in almost all societies.
If you can’t keep up with the face, immaterial riches become so much more important. Those of culture, friends and family.
It is, after all life!! It is what you make it.
However, these thoughts, are soon forgotten, in the company of most people met along the way here in Chile.
We wanted to camp within close distance of Puerto Montt.
Still on the shores of the Lago Llanquihue, we spotted a vehicle restricted track to the shores.
Here a great campsite was found on the black sandy beach.
Cal wandered off for a fish. He caught the smallest trout seen for awhile.
It was a mild evening, though cold by many standards.
Dinner was lentils, instant peso and chicken soup powder thrown in. A bit of a concoction, but not to bad.
Volcán Osorno overlooked the camp from the north eastern shore across the lake, it was somewhat inconspicuous against the creamy, cloud laden sky.
22/11/2013 Lago Llanquihue to Puerto Montt
D45, T3, Av15, max51, Tot 22413, 12,615
Overcast and mild
Suprisingly, the early morning was very mild with little dew.
I slipped into the lake very early, though waist deep was about all that could be braved in the frigid waters.
Next to our spot on the beach was a cabaña setup. It was well maintained with freshly cut grass.
One gets the impression, that this is the calm before the storm so to speak.
Referring to the upcoming holiday season, though short it will be at a frenetic pace I feel.
The summers are short here. All this water, fishing, swimming? Partying and boating coupled with a summers day would be hard to resist.
I parked myself on the beach on my “can’t do without camp stool” and documented a few thoughts and recollections of the day before on my laptop.
I find this time of day when my head is clear after the night’s sleep allows for more creative writing.
It is something I enjoy alot, infact documenting this journey has made it all the more enjoyable.
Once on the road we made a rapid passage to Puerto Varas, a lovely town on the shores of Llanquihue.
Here, we stopped to watch people casting lures into the lake in the hope of landing a salmon. Of the twenty odd participants, one did land a decent size specimen during our presence.
We stopped in town for empanadas and a browse.
The other night with Marco, we camped in the bush, when just around the corner was a lake not shown on my map.
We bought a sim for Cals iPhone, so we can access maps as we progress, that way we can see what’s up ahead.
In towns, this could also be handy.
Though I have come this far without one, it is really a luxury.
It is nice asking people for directions.
Just having my laptop, iPod and little translator is enough electronics in my life for present, it is great.
Some of that stuff is so time consuming for little outcome.
Especially, when word documents disappear to nonexistent places where they are irretrievable. Namely thin air!
Having a play with Cals new Iphone, it is so damn tempting to buy one. They are like the ears of a Weimarana dog to touch and hold, so smooth and cool. The screen clarity seals the deal. Maybe another time and place.
There will always be a better model available in future. Apple will see to that for me!
Finding a sports shop that sold Ice Breaker gear, two pairs of woollen boxers were bought.
The guy serving me asked, “What size?”, I said, “Extremely large!” he laughed and said that size is only for Chilenos!
They cost $100, but the wool makes riding even more comfortable.
Wool does not hold smells, unlike the cotton ones I have been wearing for a month or so, between washes, I will add!!
My others lasted 7 months.
No bike shops had the bottom bracket part, so we had to go to travel onto Puerto Montt.
We used the Pan Americana, it is the first time on this for me since Peru.
It was a rapid passage, gently descending on a good shoulder into Puerto Montt.
Cal was a bit unsettled in the heavy traffic but soon got used to it.
This is the first time at sea level on the bike since Trujillo in on the Peruvian coast.
We booked the Hostal Central, a comfy place with a kitchen and only Chileanos as guests at the time.
Our room was tiny, though we had a private shower.
In Puerto Varas in confined spaces indoors, we realized how on the nose we were after 6 days in the tent.
We were like Lemmings when it came to the shower.
After this, we hand washed all our dirty gear.
The water was the colour of the AR desert, fascinating it wasn’t.
Cal slept the afternoon while I had to hunt out this bottom bracket part.
Finally, I found one though not Shimano, a tad of a worry. However the guy in the bike shop told me this make is very popular in Spain.
How it will cope with a load remains to be revealed.
I kept my spare Shimano one in my pannier, just in case I have further troubles.
Tomorrow they will replace the ball bearings in both axles.
Puerto Montt had the feel of an Alaskan city, cloudy rain threatening skies, everyone was rugged up, with that threat from above becoming reality in the afternoon, sending us rushing for the clothesline.
Our room had clothing hanging across its whole length for the evening.
Dinner was supermarket roast chook with blanched greens in melted butter.
The internet here at the hostal was working for awhile, then just fizzled out. This is such an annoyance, though sometimes expected.
D50,T5, Av13.49, Max55, Tot22059, 12260
One of the nicest days for awhile
The rain had left us with a crystal clear, warm cloudless day.
Needless to say we arose late. The hostal was not vacated till almost 1200.
We had arranged to meet Marco about then.
He was going to ride with us for a couple of days .
Once we got organised and united we rode to the lake shore then took the scenic road out of town.
There were a few yachts and power boats anchored in the bay with people wandering along the foreshore or just sitting about enjoying the warm clear day.
It was a 14km climb to Cerro Chapelco.
Marco had to change a tyre on the way up, his front tyre was bulging, they are so thin compared to our 2 inch editions.
There were dozens of other cyclists riding road and mountain bikes enjoying the great terrain.
We were taking the the Ruta de los Siete Lagos. A very scenic wander past a few lagoons and lakes.
The day was wind free, which made it even more enjoyable.
Lunch was had alongside a river, here Cal went for a chilly dip.
We all enjoyed a few coca leaves after lunch and meandered on.
At a farm we collected some water. The guy had a surface pump to draw ground water. We all commented on our good the water tasted.
It was so sweet and cold. We wished we had of filled the bladder.
We found a camp amongst the trees on a disused track about 1830.
Just after dark a couple of dogs turned up with a farmer on a horse.
He was checking to see we weren’t cattle rustlers, it is apparently a problem here.
Cal and I put the tarp up over the tent to lift the dew above out tent.
A full moon rose above the range to our east through the trees.
It was like a big white icy ball.
The cool damp air saw us in our tents at 0915.
Again it was great to be camping on grass.
17/11/2013 Camping on the shores of Lago Correntos
D41, T4, Av13, max52 tot22099, 12301
Fine and mild.
We all slept in, it was that kind of morning. Once back on the road, 1km on , there was a perfect campground on the shores of yet another small lake.
We were not to know this, and took photos of the picture perfect spot, back dropped with mountains, whilst in the foreground was a fly fisherperson in waist deep water, presenting some feathers on a hook to a trout hopefully within his reach.
His figure within the water was like a spot of dirt on a mirror.
The mid morning lake surface was as smooth and reflective as that.
Soon the road became gravel.
Marcos rubber band like tyres could not handle the stones. There just wasn’t enough air space in them to stop the tryes cutting the tube on the rim.
We patched a couple of holes.
Some few km on he got another puncture. At a bridge he decided to catch a lift, we rode on.
Climbing up one hill, a van came past and stopped, Marco was in the front seat with a couple of Spanish guys who were touring about.
At the end of the graval Marco was waiting. Timing was perfect, the van was slow, he had only been there for fifteen minutes.
It was good to be back together again.
We asked a guy at the intersection about the road ahead. He told us of a camp ground on Lago Corentoso.
We road in here to an idyllic location on the lake. Many people were cooking on fires.
We pulled into the kioscko and asked if they did meals.
A little questioning by the attendant saw us enjoy the leftovers fronm the family who were dining out the back.
We had potatoes and great chunks of beef asado complimented with salad.
From here we rode further around the lake and found an open area with many families and groups bbq’ing and picnicking on the grass by the lake.
Park benches were supplied.
We set up in the only available spot under some trees, bought a few long necks and relaxed and talked with some of the locals.
By 2000 we had the whole place to ourselves, it was Sunday evening.
Little was had for dinner as the effects of our big lunch were still keeping hunger at bay.
Cal did a bit of fishing with no luck, while Marco and I played chess.
18/11/2013 Lago Villareno to up the hill to Chile
D50, T3/7, Av15, Max66, Tot 22150, 12351
Very cold morning, perfect day
With Cals tent between our two. Cal decided to spend a night in his tent. He was to be the umpire to see who could snore the loudest out of Marco or myself.
The morning revealed a very close contest had been fought all night long.
Due to the crowds picnicking here yesterday we decided to set up our tents under some overhanginging trees in the eastern sector of the park.
We did not get any sun in the morning.
It was feezing literally, we had no chance of seeing the sun on our tents before midday.
Upon getting up, I found we had received a frost.
My airbed had gone down during the night. Possibly a thorn had pierced it the night before, the site was riddled with holly like plants and dry thorny leaves were in the grass.
Inspection of the mattress under water in the lakes shallows thankfully revealed the leak was from the deflation valve.
The bed had received a wash, in the process my hands were frozen.
We all moved our gear out into the sun to eventually dry.
It was such a nice day here, we had the place to ourselves.
We decided to stay a bit longer.
Marco and I finished off our chess game over a mate.
We all took a dip in the lake, to say it was cold was an understatement.
Immersion within the waters was invigoratingly refreshing.
At one point, probably 1000 feet or more above the craggy range to east, were three Condors, cruising on thermals. Their fingered wing tips identify them through my monocular.
They reduced altitude at one point, their huge wingspan was revealed when put in perspective against the mountain.
They still appeared quite large.
It is always a moment of revelation and speciality for me when these great birds are seen.
It’s like a tap on the shoulder, reminding me of my presence here in this wondrously grand mountain range, that I often ponder.
After some time, the great birds chose an air stream that saw them disappear to the west, to take them into their most familiar airspace.
That of the sky over the Andes proper.
The next day would see us once again traverse this mountain range, through Paso cardinal A Samoré, back to Chile.
We finally got away about 1200, in no hurry we enjoyed the spectacular ride along the edge of lake Correntoso.
One river flowing under the road was as clearer river as I have seen. The waters were glass like. Logs snagged below the surface were sharply defined.
Snow clad mountains framed most vistas.
This Ruta de los 7 lagos was cycling at its best for me, with good short climbs followed by a rush back down. The road surface was new and smooth.
Every corner revealed a new vista or the expanse of blue water from another portion of a lake.
It was a kind of place where all the best things in nature had come together.
Perfect day, blue water, lush vegetation, no wind, birds calling, snow clad mountains, those only barren and a mixture of sun and shade along the passage.
All this was shared with other cyclists on mountain bikes.
Soon we reached the turnoff to Chile.
Cal and I needed supplies, the three of us headed down to Villa La Angostura, on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Here we enjoyed lunch in a cafe. The town was even more touristy than San Martín.
Marco offered to come to a supermarket with us, to keep an eye on our bikes.
We said our goodbyes.
The last 3 days riding with him have been a pleasure. We all enjoyed each others company.
This was always laced with humour.
The richness of his company more than made up for his bike, which really wasn’t up to handling all the conditions Patagonia could throw at it.
Seeing him riding a loaded road racing bike was a sight to be seen.
Every time we passed each other on the road, one of us would say “Looks like you could do with a push” in a cheeky way.
It was indeed a few good days together with a great guy.
Cal and I left town about 1700, it was an undulating but always rising ride back up to the road to Chile.
Once on this we continued to climb.
We found a campsite way off the road in the heavy bush, much of it Coihue (Nothofagus dombeyi), a large evergreen tree and a Bamboo.
We found a clearing on a track that would give us the morning sun early.
The soil was a sandy cream pumice, so common here. Water was not available. Cal took his bike and the bladder and found water back on the highway at a stream.
It was a cool evening, we ate bread with soup and soon retired to my tent.
19/11/2013 bush camp to 6km from Chileno Aduanas
D58, T4/7, Av16, Max60, Tot22208, 12409
Cool morning, warm day, cool wind on tops
The sun found our camp in the bush about 0800. There had been a frost. So prior to the suns presence it was cold, though no breeze was blowing.
There had been an exceptionally heavy dew as well, all this especially that inside the fly had not frozen.
We had coffee and porridge and were on the road by 1000.
We soon reached AR aduanas and did our formalities here and tried to get electricity for our laptops. Only one power point was located so we didn’t stay long.
Some 1.5km after the aduanas we came across a river that looked it might be riddled with trout. We took our bikes down through deep pumice sand and had a fish.
Rio Pire had no trout or at least none that liked our lure.
We spent an hour here then headed off up the range.
It was a slow climb to the top.
The scenery as usual in the Andes was breath taking. All the open areas were covered in a cream aggregate of pumice.
The tops were covered in patchy snow. Some of the rock formations at the peaks of some ranges were instantly eye catching.
Here we were in this heavily vegetated area and above us these barren light coloured craggy ranges made for such a contrast.
We stopped to filter water out of a creek, though the stream was crystal clear we still took no chances.
At another stream we enjoyed lunch on the rocky edge of the watercourse.
Once at the top we stopped for a change of gear.
Time was spent with a couple from originally from BA who were travelling in a motorhome.
They were an interesting couple. The husband Mike was enjoyable company for the short time we were together.
From here we had 20 odd km to Chileno Aduanas.
The ride was predominantly downhill. Though the road was in poor condition with an unreliable asphalt surface in places riddled with baches (potholes)
Once at the Chileno Aduanas, we were searched for the first time. Our panniers had to be emptied.
All was good.
Speaking to a one of the customs guys he said they have a problem with Didymo and are trying to keep it out of Chile. They hose down any boats coming through. AR has it in some rivers and lakes.
We stopped here also for Empanadas and a coke.
Riding on, now in much milder conditions in heavy forest, it was 1900, we needed a camp.
Soon some open farm country was spotted. In amongst this was a church, at the back of this we set up camp. A perfect spot for the night with water on tap.
Callum was pretty worn out after the climbing for the early part of the day.
He is now getting used to the life on the road, that of really having to be nowhere at any particular time. Also that of living a bit frugally. Eating pasta, packet soups, bread and dulce de leche.
It is great to have him along, like his dad he enjoys the outdoors and a bit of a challenge.
He is sleeping well to say the least.
The tubes of vegemite are a real treat.
20/11/2013 Church 6km past customs to disused substation, intersection U-91&U-775
D73, 4/8, Av17.26, Max74, Tot22281, 12482
Another great day
The sun reached camp early as it found its way through a gap in the trees around the boundary fence of the church grounds.
Though with our “no hurry” attitude we did not get away till 1000.
We even had water here and a toilet.
Once on the road it was up hill and down dale for the whole trip to Entre Lagos.
Coming down one hill Lago Puyehue came into view. It was a large body of water, at the time displaying small surface waves from wind blowing along its length.
The country side as usual in Chile so far was lush with thick vegetation and much of the rampant Bamboo amongst this greenness.
Crews of at ten guys were whipper snipping the roadside.
A daunting task though in numbers they cover a few km in no time.
Arriving in Entre Lagos we stocked up at the supermarket.
We headed to the lakefront and enjoyed bead, avocados, cheese, salami, orange juice and bananas.
Most vistas now contain at least one volcano.
Also in town we used the net for an hour or so to charge our electronics.
My bike was making a strange grating sound when pedalling only. It was found the Hollowtech bottom bracket bearings has gone again. It is always the one on the chain side.
There is slop in it.
So far in 20 odd thousand km I have had to replace one in Nicaragua, Peru and now Chile.
They last about 6000km.
Other cyclists spoken to have had to replace this Shimano part.
With the weight I carry and the force exerted on the chain side to the bearings, this distance is all they seem to last.
Hopefully this and axle bearings will be replaced in Purto Montt.
By the time we left Entre Lagos it was 1700.
These days it is not getting dark till almost 2100 so we can ride till 2000 if necessary.
Well today that was necessary.
We stopped at the road bridge above the river draining Lago Rupanco hoping to find a campsite for some fishing, none could be found, it was all fenced.
Some young guys on the bridge were catching trout.
By now it was 1900, we loaded up with water so we could camp anywhere and headed up the road out of the river valley.
It was steady climbed as expected surrounded such a large water shed.
Once at the top we rode for some time through Eucalypt plantations on both sides of the road.
The sun only penetrated these areas at midday, the trees were at least 30m tall and straight as pencils.
By now I was wasted and had to have an energy gel, soon we reached the populated intersection of roads U-775 and U-91. Here we asked the carribineros (police) if we could camp in their large property.
No way they said, because of public liability, a far cry from the bomberos ( firemen) and policia of Peru and Bolivia who both gladly enjoyed the company of cyclists.
In this respect Chile is very different from other countries here in SA.
With more capitalism in so called developed nations comes all sorts of restrictions and mistrust of one another. The need for money can lead individuals to look for ways to access it easily.
Occasionally through blaming someone for so called negligence.
Anyway Cal had spotted a disused power substation on the way into the settlement. We headed back here.
Talk about luxury, we had our own little compound with high concrete walls and an iron gate we could close to obstruct the views from the road.
There was a concrete slab still warm from the days sun, though overgrown with Blackberry, it was the perfect site for the tent.
This was cleared.
Cal cooked up a delightful rice, tuna, onion and spice number.
We finished eating in the fading light at 2130.
You just never know where you will end up each day. Todays camp was perfect given the moisture in the air and damp grass.
21/11/2013 Camping lake shore, Lago Llanquihue 25km north of Puerto Montt
D88, T4.5/8, Av17.64, Max62, Tot22,369, 12,570
Mild with high cloud, little wind.
The morning revealed a heavy fog. It was great to be atop our little piece of concrete.
The inside of the fly was hanging with condensation.
We really had to wait till the sun burnt its way through the fog.
I took time out to shave, five days growth was starting to look a bit shabby, it gets too long and then becomes a hassle to cut.
Cal is keeping a record of our journey he too sat about over coffee typing.
Once on the road we had to get water, which was done at a farmhouse.
For almost all day we were in the company of three volcanoes.
Those of Calbuco, Osorno and Puntiagudo.
A short section of the road was gravel until we reached the intersection with U99v, luckily traffic was light.
They are all no longer active.
Though at one point on the road you could see where a lava flow had slithered its way from one of the cones.
Vegetation for miles was open and not of large trees.
We stopped at a small creek for a fish. Cal had a couple on but got off.
How many times have you heard this story from fisher persons??
The land use around us was largely dairying with sheep and cattle about.
I for one miss the openness of AR. You could camp anywhere and the landscape was largely unaltered by man.
The landscape here is all farmed with fences making camping difficult without seeking permission.
Cal commented on how much he enjoyed his short ride through AR on the 7 lakes road.
Dorothee wrote and said the Nat Park south of there impressed her even more.
We stopped on the shores of Lago Llanquihue for lunch of bread with vegemite and dulce, sardines and coffee.
Cal fished or half an hour.
The road now was again up and down, it was great variable riding, at Ensenada we stopped for a coke.
From here, the road continued to follow the shores of Lago Llanquihue.
There were Cabañas everywhere, it seemed anyone with a property was offering accommodation.
Many places had German names.
Road works were in progress for much of the way.
It suited us as we rode in the blocked of lane.
An observation made here in this part of Chile, is the lack of friendliness and enthusiasm displayed by some people. From those in businesses, to those on the road, working or standing waiting for a bus or whatever.
Of course, this is not everyone, but it is very noticeable.
It is such a pleasure to see people really enjoying what they are doing, especially in the workplace.
It is like many people are doing things they don’t want to be doing, but have too.
After all, they are in the most developed and stable country in South America.
Some young Chileana girls on the way to Macchu Pichu told me of the monetary disparity in their country.
Maybe these people can see the golden apple of capitalism but will never be able to grasp it, as they would like to.
Unlike Peru, Bolivia and to a lesser extent Ecuador, there appears to be little culture displayed here.
Consumerism is engulfing it.
Unable to grasp the apple, coupled with no strong culture. Their lives may have become somewhat of a less than exciting existence.
Occasionally, some turn to other means to add excitement to their lives.
Having said this.
Seeing a woman or man in Peru or Bolivia, often in traditional attire and proud of it. With a huge welcoming smile or enthusiasm in their voices, as one rode by does lead me to make these comments.
Argentina, Ecuador and Colombia also had an air of enthusiasm in their people for me.
I feel Chile has changed to rapidly for many.
Some in the wave and are riding it, some are in the white water moving with it, though not on its exciting face. Whilst others are left floundering in its aftermath.
This same scenario exists all over the planet in almost all societies.
If you can’t keep up with the face, immaterial riches become so much more important. Those of culture, friends and family.
It is, after all life!! It is what you make it.
However, these thoughts, are soon forgotten, in the company of most people met along the way here in Chile.
We wanted to camp within close distance of Puerto Montt.
Still on the shores of the Lago Llanquihue, we spotted a vehicle restricted track to the shores.
Here a great campsite was found on the black sandy beach.
Cal wandered off for a fish. He caught the smallest trout seen for awhile.
It was a mild evening, though cold by many standards.
Dinner was lentils, instant peso and chicken soup powder thrown in. A bit of a concoction, but not to bad.
Volcán Osorno overlooked the camp from the north eastern shore across the lake, it was somewhat inconspicuous against the creamy, cloud laden sky.
22/11/2013 Lago Llanquihue to Puerto Montt
D45, T3, Av15, max51, Tot 22413, 12,615
Overcast and mild
Suprisingly, the early morning was very mild with little dew.
I slipped into the lake very early, though waist deep was about all that could be braved in the frigid waters.
Next to our spot on the beach was a cabaña setup. It was well maintained with freshly cut grass.
One gets the impression, that this is the calm before the storm so to speak.
Referring to the upcoming holiday season, though short it will be at a frenetic pace I feel.
The summers are short here. All this water, fishing, swimming? Partying and boating coupled with a summers day would be hard to resist.
I parked myself on the beach on my “can’t do without camp stool” and documented a few thoughts and recollections of the day before on my laptop.
I find this time of day when my head is clear after the night’s sleep allows for more creative writing.
It is something I enjoy alot, infact documenting this journey has made it all the more enjoyable.
Once on the road we made a rapid passage to Puerto Varas, a lovely town on the shores of Llanquihue.
Here, we stopped to watch people casting lures into the lake in the hope of landing a salmon. Of the twenty odd participants, one did land a decent size specimen during our presence.
We stopped in town for empanadas and a browse.
The other night with Marco, we camped in the bush, when just around the corner was a lake not shown on my map.
We bought a sim for Cals iPhone, so we can access maps as we progress, that way we can see what’s up ahead.
In towns, this could also be handy.
Though I have come this far without one, it is really a luxury.
It is nice asking people for directions.
Just having my laptop, iPod and little translator is enough electronics in my life for present, it is great.
Some of that stuff is so time consuming for little outcome.
Especially, when word documents disappear to nonexistent places where they are irretrievable. Namely thin air!
Having a play with Cals new Iphone, it is so damn tempting to buy one. They are like the ears of a Weimarana dog to touch and hold, so smooth and cool. The screen clarity seals the deal. Maybe another time and place.
There will always be a better model available in future. Apple will see to that for me!
Finding a sports shop that sold Ice Breaker gear, two pairs of woollen boxers were bought.
The guy serving me asked, “What size?”, I said, “Extremely large!” he laughed and said that size is only for Chilenos!
They cost $100, but the wool makes riding even more comfortable.
Wool does not hold smells, unlike the cotton ones I have been wearing for a month or so, between washes, I will add!!
My others lasted 7 months.
No bike shops had the bottom bracket part, so we had to go to travel onto Puerto Montt.
We used the Pan Americana, it is the first time on this for me since Peru.
It was a rapid passage, gently descending on a good shoulder into Puerto Montt.
Cal was a bit unsettled in the heavy traffic but soon got used to it.
This is the first time at sea level on the bike since Trujillo in on the Peruvian coast.
We booked the Hostal Central, a comfy place with a kitchen and only Chileanos as guests at the time.
Our room was tiny, though we had a private shower.
In Puerto Varas in confined spaces indoors, we realized how on the nose we were after 6 days in the tent.
We were like Lemmings when it came to the shower.
After this, we hand washed all our dirty gear.
The water was the colour of the AR desert, fascinating it wasn’t.
Cal slept the afternoon while I had to hunt out this bottom bracket part.
Finally, I found one though not Shimano, a tad of a worry. However the guy in the bike shop told me this make is very popular in Spain.
How it will cope with a load remains to be revealed.
I kept my spare Shimano one in my pannier, just in case I have further troubles.
Tomorrow they will replace the ball bearings in both axles.
Puerto Montt had the feel of an Alaskan city, cloudy rain threatening skies, everyone was rugged up, with that threat from above becoming reality in the afternoon, sending us rushing for the clothesline.
Our room had clothing hanging across its whole length for the evening.
Dinner was supermarket roast chook with blanched greens in melted butter.
The internet here at the hostal was working for awhile, then just fizzled out. This is such an annoyance, though sometimes expected.
 Museo de Che, San Martín
 La bahia de San Martín
 Primera noche
 ciclistas naturales!
 agua limpiar
 Trecera noche en el bosque circa CL
 No trucha!
 La cumbre
 Volcán Puntiagudo, CL
 Volcán Calbuco
 Finca de salmon, Lago Llanquihue
 Puerto Montt
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 Ches bici, usado despues escuela para viajes en AR
 Sangriente Marco!
 a un kilómetro de nuestro campamento en la primera noche
 Buenas vistas
 Llegando el campamento, segunda noche
 último día juntos cerca Villa de Angostura
 Los Andes
 Cerca de la cumbre
 La iglesia
 Ensenado
 Volcán Osorno
 Pescadores Puerto Varas
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